This homebrew C-41 worked really well.

Discussion in 'Color: Film, Paper, and Chemistry' started by rpavich, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. rpavich

    rpavich Subscriber

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    I'm a buyer and user of the Kodak Flexicolor Kits for both C-41 and RA-4 but I ran out of C-41 developer replenisher and didn't realize it so I pulled out a C-41 formula I had and mixed up a 250ml batch.

    Well color me pleased! The negatives came out very very nice. Clear, no fogginess or brown-ness, no strange color shifting. Just very nice.

    I don't develop that much, it takes me about a week and a half to get through a roll of film so to get the 4 rolls I need to fire up the Jobo for developing it's about a month and a half duration. I'm thinking that for my low throughput, just doing the 250mls for the 4 rolls and then tossing is the way to go.

    The bleach and Fixer don't seem to suffer, they just keep going and going and I have TONS of bleach and fixer from the Kodak kits.

    If anyone is interested here is the recipe.

    DEVELOPER to make 250ml

    Water 250ml

    Potassium carbonate 8gr (or 6gr sodium carbonate as a substitute)

    Sodium Sulfite .9gr

    Potassium Bromide .4gr

    Hydroxylamine Sulfate .5gr

    CD4 1.25gr
     
  2. zanxion72

    zanxion72 Member

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    Thank you so much for sharing it. A quick question; what is CD4? Should I just ask for it from my local chemistry store like that?
     
  3. OP
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    rpavich

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    I actually don't know. I can tell you that I bought it and the Hydroxylamine Sulfate from Artcraft chemicals online.

    CD-4 (Part#: 1095) $39.00
     
  4. OP
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    rpavich

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    For those who think that this is some sort of recipe that I made up, or that this is some sort of strange alternate process, no it isn't.

    It's not at all like trying to develop C-41 at room temp instead of the recommended 100f and not get any errors or bad results. I don't see the parallel at all.

    I don't have any reason to believe that this is some sort of aberrant chemical soup that won't produce good negatives.

    Maybe using the word "homebrew" wasn't a good choice of words...possibly "mixed from separate chemicals and using a published formula" might have been a better choice.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2017
  5. Anon Ymous

    Anon Ymous Member

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    Well, good luck finding that at the local chemistry store. That and hydroxylamine sulfate. :smile:
     
  6. Rudeofus

    Rudeofus Subscriber

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    rpavich, this soup deviates from regular C-41 CD by at least one essential component (Iodide) and its compound amounts are way different (1.25 g/l CD-4 vs. 4-5.5 g/l, ...). I trust your word that it gives visually satisfying results, but so does room temperature processing for many. BTW the (missing) Iodide is not just there for fun: it mostly affects the top layer and therefore plays an important role in color balance.

    There are strong and good arguments both for the "if the negs look ok the process is good" and for the "you have to follow the recipe to the letter" camp. All the relevant arguments have been stated over and over again and are unlikely going to change anyones mind at this point. You criticism at room temperature processors just sounded contradictory in light of your statement in this thread.
     
  7. Anon Ymous

    Anon Ymous Member

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    Yes, it lacks iodide, but the amounts aren't that different. These numbers are for a 250ml batch. Multiply by 4 and you get pretty close.
     
  8. OP
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    rpavich

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    Thanks for pointing out that it deviates. I didn't know that. I'll do some reading and try and align with regular C-41.
    Good to know.

    As the previous poster pointed out, it's for 250ml not 1L and it follows the published Zone V recipe.

    As for the other "contradiction" I just know what I know. Room temp C-41 doesn't give results that are "close enough" to anything like standard for me to mess with it. If others like it...mazel tov! I couldn't care less. I know folks who have no problem with it and it doesn't bother me a whit. It's preference :smile: The only comment that I made was that you WILL have crossover and if that's cool with a person, then ok...it's not with me.

    This formula (on the other hand) did give correct results and I'm pleased that I didn't destroy anything, I was in a pickle so I tried it and as you pointed out, it can be improved to be more consistent with the approved C-41 formula and I'll certainly go that direction.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2017
  9. OP
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    rpavich

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    Hmm...I just looked at the published Zone V C-41 recipe and it doesn't call for Potassium Iodide.

    I guess it's a "blue restrainer" according to PE. Maybe he can chime in on that.
     
  10. zanxion72

    zanxion72 Member

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    Just got back from three (the only ones available in Athens-Piraeus). They have no idea what they are. :smile: I guess I will have to stick to C-41 kits from ebay. Pitty they do not last long after mixed.
     
  11. OP
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    rpavich

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    Does Artcraft Chemicals online ship to Greece?
     
  12. Rudeofus

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    Don't know about Artcraft, but Fototechnik Suvatlar definitely does send to Greece.
     
  13. Rudeofus

    Rudeofus Subscriber

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    There is a C-41 CD original formula published in US6649331, and Stefan Lange has followed up on this formula to create his own optimized version, using the compounds commonly available in Central Europe. The Zone V C-41 recipe was never claimed to be authorative, and as I mentioned before, it lacks at least one essential ingredient.
     
  14. OP
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    rpavich

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    Looks like I should just buy another 5L of Kodak Developer.
     
  15. OP
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    rpavich

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    Which I just did :smile:
     
  16. Ko.Fe.

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    In telenal 1L C-41 two bath press kit which is sold by BH (local pickup only) instruction comes with different times for different temperatures listed. But I can't find anything about "close enough"...
     
  17. RPC

    RPC Member

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    For those who wondered, CD-4 is a color developing agent, used only, to the best of my knowledge, for developing C-41 film. Hydroxylamine sulfate is a preservative.

    Formulas have been posted here before containing iodide. Kodak's actual formula is proprietary and has not been published officially, but very close formulas can be found. I have used various published formulas with good results, judging by viewed results and sensitometry, but test and compare for yourself. As with the official developer, the formulas should always be used at proper temperature and pH for optimum results.

    I normally use Kodak C-41 developer, but have tried mixing my own in preparation for the day it is no longer sold, is too hard to get, or too expensive.
     
  18. Rudeofus

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    AFAIK, these are the original Kodak formulas ...
     
  19. RPC

    RPC Member

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    Well good, if so, because the developer is one of the formulas I have and have used.