Kino said:

The Bolex H8 is a "D" mount.

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All the old interchangeable lens 8mm Bolex and many others used the “D” screw mount lenses, as Kino noted the 16mm screw mount was for 16mm cameras.

TheGreatGasMaskMan said:

basically, I'd need something like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3935215874...4WlMFacJbX-7FhsiWQoOjfitzIdqMqbBoC-RgQAvD_BwE

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Yep

TheGreatGasMaskMan said:

basically, I'd need something like this?

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Yup. There were many "D" mount lens manufacturers. My set of 3 are from Soligor...

btaylor said:

All the old interchangeable lens 8mm Bolex and many others used the “D” screw mount lenses, as Kino noted the 16mm screw mount was for 16mm cameras.

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There was also a "D" mount RX specification which will not work with non-reflex Bolex H8 cameras, so if you are buying a Switar lens, make sure it's not RX!

Read up on the Bolex Collector's Website.

I'd like some manual focus lenses, but I can't imagine doing rack focusing on a non reflex camera

Yes, the RX and non RX designations caused a lot of confusion- IIRC the flange focal depth was longer in the Rex cameras because of the beam splitter prism for the reflex viewfinder so the two will NOT interchange.

TheGreatGasMaskMan said:

I'd like some manual focus lenses, but I can't imagine doing rack focusing on a non reflex camera

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That’s what the focus puller’s job is! Using marks and measurements…

You wouldn't believe the gizmos we used build to do things like rack focus on a non-reflex camera! A cardboard ring around the lens with footage marked, a focus lever clamped to the barrel and sometimes a tape measure clipped to the belt of the actor just out of the shot with a PA reading off measurements as the actor moved around. Of course, it took 30 minutes to set up and execute a shot, but you did what you had to do to get the shot.

Dang. Now I am lusting for a Rex 5. Thanks...

Ah memories! Good night everyone...

Kino said:

You wouldn't believe the gizmos we used build to do things like rack focus on a non-reflex camera! A cardboard ring around the lens with footage marked, a focus lever clamped to the barrel and sometimes a tape measure clipped to the belt of the actor just out of the shot with a PA reading off measurements as the actor moved around. Of course, it took 30 minutes to set up and execute a shot, but you did what you had to do to get the shot.

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Barry Lyndon much?

might as well show you my "micro short" from this past semester, using a true 16mm Bolex. I had one true rack focus and I think I did alright.

though I've got to clear the rights for the music before I can send this to festivals.

What, no fava beans?

Good job. Was this a 100 foot exercise? I remember my 100 foot films; wonder what ever happened to them after 15 moves and a divorce?

I didn't do too many films for myself; too expensive. I could barely afford tuition, let alone film Most of my work was for others who had at least a small budget. It's tough trying to shoot motion picture film on s shoestring or no string at all,so congratulations on finishing a film. Also, good luck on clearance; it's never easy.

Yes, it was an exercise. However, my professor provided everyone with one roll of 500t.
At least the label allowed me to upload the video

You have an H-8 and have run 16-mm. film through it. That should be clear by now. Obvious differences between an H-8 and an H-16 are the round (circular) spool spindles with a spring-loaded dog each with H-8. An H-16 has round spindles with a square bottom section and spool retention balls. Older H-8 have a quarter-inch pocket near each lens ports on the turret rim. Nobody knows today what these recessions are for. Younger models wear H16 or H8 on the name plate. Older H-8 have D-mount threads in the turret (UNF ⅝"-32), flange focal distance is the regular 0.484". The H-8 Reflex models have C-mount threads (UNF 1"-32) but an irregular FFD, namely 15,305 mm. The non-Reflex H-16 have the standard C mount (thread UNF 1"-32, FFD 0.69"). The H-16 Reflex models have C mounts and the FFD of 0.8175" or 20,7645 mm. An H-16 has a thicker front than an H-8. Last, the built-in frame counter goes to 2,000 with an H-8 but to 1,000 with an H-16.