1906 Kodak 3A

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BrianShaw

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The Kodak No. 3A Model B2, which I have adapted, was made between 1904 and 1906 as far as I could determine from the available literature. It was a "Pocket Folding Kodak" but pockets must have been very big back then because this one measures (in inches) about 10 x 4-3/4 x 2. The No. 3A was one of the larger Pocket Folding Kodaks and made "postcard" pictures: ten 3-1/4 x 5-1/2 inch exposures on size 122 film.

The shutter is a Kodak FPK, which has Time, Bulb, and Instantaneous - a single 1/50 of a second shutter speed. The lens is a Bausch and Lomb Rapid Rectilinear. I've used this shutter and lens in the past with Polaroid and know that it performs a lot better than most might think considering its age and rather pedestrian nature.

1A9AF28C-B170-422E-8EA3-5A6A6EC88979.jpeg

** please forgive the sideways picture. Viewed as such, though, is close to what it looked like when shooting landscaped panoramic pictures, except the reflex viewer would have been flipped to its second position. **

The film gate was masked and adapters are being used to convert to 120 roll film. Before committing to actual film use, a number of experiments were conducted to figure out how to wind the film via "counts of the winding knob". Although there is a red window (which was masked), the red window does not align with any numbering on 120 film.

40CC789D-F816-4407-8039-A7192D44BF1C.jpeg


B206ED4A-7256-4F5F-A9B0-BC4DA4447C2F.jpeg


The initial test was "questionably successful". In an attempt to get the film speed to work with a 1/50 shutter speed limitation, Ilford Pan F Plus (50 ASA) was used. Today is overcast and about EV11... so 1/50 at US 4 (F/8) worked out. When the sun is actually shining, I plan on using either contrast filters or ND filters to adapt the exposure appropriately. But for today it was naked lens wide open.

All seemed to go okay but the film had a "weird feel" as it was advanced. Too loose, and that was confirmed when the back was open. One modification I needed to make and didn't was to adjust the supply spool tensioner so it worked with the 122-120 adapters. I may also need to make another modification and add a pressure plate behind the film and updated film gate.

Unfortunately the only chemistry I have at the moment is rather old. It might work... or it might not, so I'll have to defer processing the film. By that time, I'll have shot a second roll with a properly working film tensioner.

More to come...

After adjusting the film supply reel tensioner the film spooled through a lot smoother and reliably. Now ready for some serious photography!
 
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BrianShaw

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I probably should have! I have to go back to Freestyle to buy chemistry so I may as well buy more film too. :smile:
 

Tel

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Looks like you're getting a nice widescreen aspect ratio there. That could be a lot of fun.
 

Donald Qualls

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Nice. What is that, about 6x14?
 

Donald Qualls

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So 5.5 * 2.54 = 13.97. Your actual size is 56x139+ mm, then, which we'd call 6x14 if there were a camera actually made for it.
 

Donald Qualls

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BrianShaw

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Looks great. How you gonna print or scan?
One frame should fit in a Epson flatbed..
LOL... I was going to reply that I have no idea. Haven’t got quite that far in my thinking. Now I think I’ll just send the negs to Donald!
 

Donald Qualls

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LOL... I was going to reply that I have no idea. Haven’t got quite that far in my thinking. Now I think I’ll just send the negs to Donald!

My Epson V850 will scan 120 strips up to about 1/4 of a roll, 3 6x6 frames, so as noted above, I could fit one of those frames in each window of the negative carrier at a time. I don't have a big enough enlarger to print them, other than contact prints, though -- and contact prints might be the sensible way to start, if you want to stay fully analog. The original format of that camera was called "Postcard" format because it would contact print to a then-standard postcard size.

BTW, Kodak sold a glass plate back for that camera as well; Borut Peterlin has used one for wet plate collodion, and J.Lane Dry Plates have that size as one of the standard cuts.
 

Donald Qualls

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They're probably a good bit rarer than the cameras by now -- glass plates were "gone" long before 122 film was discontinues (1960s?).
 

quesadillo

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Hi! I have the exact same camera and wanted to ask how much turns did you have to make to advance to the first frameset. Also, if you have any other recommendations. :smile:
 

gone

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Beautiful camera. A slip on yellow filter will give you another stop on the exposure, and as mentioned, Foma 100 is a good film to start with. I shoot it at 50, and the yellow filter brings it down to 25. The negs looked great in Rodinal at 1:50. Foma 400 looks good shot at 200 w/ a yellow filter, but that may be out of range for your shutter. You may have to devise a pressure plate, but w/ tape being used for your film runner, that may be impractical if it's pressure bows the film into the camera beyond the tape.
 
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BrianShaw

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Hi! I have the exact same camera and wanted to ask how much turns did you have to make to advance to the first frameset. Also, if you have any other recommendations. :smile:

Here are my notes, that was developed based on multiple experiments with backing paper alone. It worked with actual film but it is possible that refinement might yield one more frame:

From the arbitrary starting point indicated in the photo above: 16 half turns to frame 1; 6 half turns for frames 2 - 4. The frame spacing increases and calculating the amount to keep the frame spacing equal is too complicated for me. It's calculatable, but in practice I know I'd goof so would rather "waste a little film" than try to optimize. If the frame gaps were consistently minimized, one more frame is theoretically possible. My goals was about 10-15 between frames (I can't recall which and didn't keep that in the notes I found.

The frame gaps are quite inconsistent and I think there might have been some slippage or binding of the film. I shot several rolls but only one survived to processing (I was sweating in the changing bag and ruined 3 rolls trying to load reels.)

Head of film to Frame 1: 40mm
Frame 1 to 2: 3mm
Frame 2 to 3: 15mm
Frame 3 to 4: 27mm
Frame 4 to tail of film: 160mm

One thing I observed is that the supply spool tensioner needed to be adjusted (tightened) for the 120 film and adapter. It also seems to revert to its looser position easily and often. Much of the impact of this is smoothness when moving the film but I suspect that it might also impacted frame spacing also. I have not yet further investigated this and thinking another adaption for supply spool tensioning might be needed.

As Momus mentions, filters are a great option for both image control and exposure control. In my pictures above you will see a Series VI hood that is on a Series VI adapter (1 1/4"-31.5mm)... into which I put Series VI filters. I adore the Series adapter/filter/hood option when using older cameras! The filters I cannot find this type are ND filters. That would be great when using color film. I tried jury-rigging some Rosco ND filter sheets into the adapter but could only get it to lay flat after totally messing it up with fingerprints, scratches, and many curse words.
 

quesadillo

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Thank you so much Brian i will check the tensioner and will shoot some film with the info on the following days :smile:.
 

Snowfire

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Some scanners have carriers that take two 6x9 frames or three 6x6 frames at once. If you have one of these, you can put up to a 6x17 negative in the scanner, although you may have to scan the image in parts and photomerge after the fact. If you must use a flatbed, on the other hand, aftermarket carriers such as those sold by lomography.com will hold the film flatter than most stock carriers provided with flatbeds.
 
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