Acu-1 developer crystals to make 1 quart

[MTGseattle]

I ended up with a case of this stuff. I can't quite tell what the expiration date is, or if the stamps on the cans are simply lot numbers. The cans all "shake" fine in that i can tell the crystals haven't clumped up too bad.
All of the threads regarding this stuff are pretty old. Is this stuff worth messing with?
In looking through the forums, I would say that it definitely doesn't seem to be one of the more popular developers.

Try it?
trash it?
put it in the classifieds?

 

[Paul Howell]

I would mix a can, if all the powered and crystals dissolve I think it will be fine. ACU-1 should have working chartasertics similar to Acufine.

 

[lightray]

I ended up with a case of this stuff. I can't quite tell what the expiration date is, or if the stamps on the cans are simply lot numbers. The cans all "shake" fine in that i can tell the crystals haven't clumped up too bad.
All of the threads regarding this stuff are pretty old. Is this stuff worth messing with?
In looking through the forums, I would say that it definitely doesn't seem to be one of the more popular developers.

Try it?
trash it?
put it in the classifieds?

That was my favourite developer, I'd certainly try it, i found it to be better than accufine, finer grain than xtol. i finished the last can half a year ago, unopened cans will hold a long time

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

I would definitely try it and would surmise that you'll have better results with more traditional grain/type of film, such as EK5222/Double-X and Ilford FP-4+. It is my opinion that as soon as the first T-grain films came out these type of developers fell out of favor, likely because the small gains from this type of developer are more easily obtained by the improvements in all emulsions, not just the T-grain type. They still have a unique tonality and especially grain, one of my favorites was replenished UFG with ancient EFKE 25 and 50, I could get a forced reticulation that was a fun look.

 

[MTGseattle]

Thank you both.

 

[gorbas]

Does anybody knows to what family of developers this ACU-1 belongs? What is in it? It looks like speed enhancing.
I also got one can of it. From listed films, it's from early '70s.

​

 

[Trask]

I ended up with a case of this stuff. I can't quite tell what the expiration date is, or if the stamps on the cans are simply lot numbers. The cans all "shake" fine in that i can tell the crystals haven't clumped up too bad.
All of the threads regarding this stuff are pretty old. Is this stuff worth messing with?
In looking through the forums, I would say that it definitely doesn't seem to be one of the more popular developers.

Try it?
trash it?
put it in the classifieds?

If you're not going to use it, I'd suggest you put it in the classifieds. I've had good results using UFG and ACU-1 in sealed cans from years ago.

 

[MarkS]

In the late '70s I worked as a b/w tech in a busy custom lab. I developed a lot of customer film- D-76 1:1 was the standard process, in stainless Nikor tanks. The lab offered push-processing, too, at extra cost. Tri-X @ 800- extended time in D-76 1:1. Tri-X @1000- Acu-1. Tri-X at 1200- Acufine. Tri-X @ 1600- Diafine.
Of course I didn't create those standards, and the customers likely never knew just what those processes were. Nor did I print those negatives, so I can't say how they turned out- except to say that there were a number of repeat customers, so they must have worked.
Based on that very anecdotal evidence, Acu-1 might be good if you want more speed from your fast films. Anything else? a test series will tell you. And if it's packaged in cans, it's likely still usable.

 

[F4U]

Do not trash it. Back in the day it was great stuff. Would take a roll of Plus X and kick it up to 320, sharp as a tack and practically grainless. I don't know how many cans you have, but it's worth opening one up. If it hasn't turned brown, use it.

 

[MTGseattle]

It's either 12 or 16 cans. I need to double check what my current "need to process" films are and possibly crack one open this weekend.

 

[MTGseattle]

It’s a case of 24 cans.
I pulled the can with the most rust on it and mixed it up today. Some discolored crystals, no clumps.
Here’s a pic of the resulting “soup.”
My only exposed rolls right now are Tmax and 1 roll of fomapan 100.
I may try the fomapan in the Acu-1 unless someone thinks that’s a bad idea.

 

[F4U]

It’s a case of 24 cans.
I pulled the can with the most rust on it and mixed it up today. Some discolored crystals, no clumps.
Here’s a pic of the resulting “soup.”
My only exposed rolls right now are Tmax and 1 roll of fomapan 100.
I may try the fomapan in the Acu-1 unless someone thinks that’s a bad idea.

It's been 49 years since I last used that, but I don't recall it being that color, although what I'm seeing isn't outrightly bad.But remember, it was a speed "pushing" developer. Plus X to 320, Trix X to 1200 as I recall and so on. But since they don't make those 2 films like they did then, then it's anybody's guess. Don't use it on those 2 and they will be ruined. You'll have to expose another roll to do that. Try Fomapan 100 at 160 and 200 and 250 and see what you get. As for developing times, check the massive developer chart, but I doubt it's in there. So all you CAN do is treat it like it's Plus X. But remember, Kodak rated their films honestly, with fill speed developers Like D-76, DK-50, DK-60a and the like. I think Foma fudges high on their speed ratings.

 

[MTGseattle]

I had previously dug up some developing info for the stuff.
I'm guessing this is a "clear" solution if the crystals are brand new. I may go and expose a roll specifically for it. My main goal was to have some more data if I decide to throw it at the classifieds section.

 

[jonny88]

I've had some experience with these crystals and I think it might be worth a small test run before you go all in. If it works, great! If not, you can always toss it or put it up in the classifieds