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Adox M-Q Borax

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Ian Grant

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Ian Grant submitted a new resource:

Adox M-Q Borax - EFKE Fotokemia Fine Grain Film developer

Adox M-Q Borax Fine Grain Film Developer

Metol 2 g
Sodium Sulphite (anh) 80 g
Hydroquinone 4 g
Borax 4 g
Potassium Bromide 0.5 g
Water to 1 litr

Use Full strength
Development times are typically 10%-20% longer than D76/ID-11

Replenisher Stock Solution Adox M-Q Borax

Metol 3 g
Sodium Sulphite (anh) 80 g
Hydroquinone 5.0 g
Borax 18g
Water to 1 litre

Replenish 15-20ml per 36 ex 35mm or 120 film, or 4 sheets 5x4. 1 sheet 10x8.

Related to Agfa Ansco...

Read more about this resource...
 
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Anon Ymous

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Ian, are you sure about the borax level? Shouldn't it be 4g/l instead of 2?
 
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Ian Grant

Ian Grant

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Interesting, never saw Fotokemika FR-2 prepackaged for sale in Yugoslavia?! Its on my list to try it as replacement for D-76. FR-3 was rather coarse grained film developer, most likely with carbonate as alkali.

Yes FR-3 was an MQ carbonate developer and much lower in Sulphite, so definitely not a fine grain developer. FR-7 was ID-11/D76.

FR-2 with the Adox name pre-dates the EFKE/Fotokemia era and is probaly from when Dupont owned Adox, although possibly earlier.

Ian
 

darkroommike

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Interesting, similar to D76, are there substantial differences in performance, especially if replenished?
 

gorbas

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Adox M-Q Borax was one of the favorite developers of late Tom Abrahamsson. He had lengthy thread about it on RF forum. Here on Phototrio I know that Nokton48 is using it. Back in the day, from Fotokemika offerings also was absent prepackaged FR-7. Actually this is first time i heard of it. They had for sale FR-5, close cousin of D-23
 
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Ian Grant

Ian Grant

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Interesting, similar to D76, are there substantial differences in performance, especially if replenished?

It's like Agfa Ansco (GAF) 17 and Agfa/Orwo 44, the Sulphite is at a more optimal level 75-80g/l compared to the 100g/l of D76 Xtol, this helps improve sharpness gives cleaner shadow detail with slightly finer grain. It's subjective but definitely a noticeable improvement in performance, it's not speed-ehancing but there's not the slight drop you get with D76/ID-11, not surprising as it's almost identical to the old ASA speed test developer, so always gave me boz speeds.

Ian
 
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Ian Grant

Ian Grant

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It's usually the other way around as the bromide/iodide increases in the replenished developer everything improves as an equilibrium.
is reached.

D76/ID-11 gives it;s sharpest results diluted or replenished it is perceptable and when I shared a commercial darkroom with 2 other photographers none of us liked using fresh developer, it only took a few films to season and settle though. Then it was so stable and predictable and you knew you'd get superb results.

I guess in many ways the increases in quality with Adox MQ Borax are quite similar to those of Xtol compared to D76/ID-11, for myself and the others I supplied it was well worth the change. I'm not someone who switches films/developer unless there's a definite benefit and in 50+ years have only switched 100 ISO films 3/4 times, and 4 main developers. I need consistency so craft is in the background allowing creativity.

Ian
 

Nokton48

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Yes I use it, I learned about it from TomA. I prefer it to D76, it is cheaper and very easy to make. The mid tonalities are outstanding. Make sure you add some Sulphite to the water before adding the Metol, or you will oxidize the Metol and ruin the developer. I use it with Eastman XX (my 5222 Double-X thread on RFF) has lots of photos taken with it. I'm about to mix more, I do use the replenisher. You should filter it periodically, but it lasts a very long time.

0471775-R1-E024 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I remember TomA liked this one! :smile:
 
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Nokton48

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Hi Gorbas,

I have hundreds of sheets of 6x9cm Orwo NP22 and some NP15, and I'm going to try ADOX Borax MQ with that stuff.
But since it's very old film, I wonder if I should use Microphen? The guy in Bulgaria suggested Microphen.

I also have 75 sheets of 6x9cm Fotopan FF ISO 50 (from Poland) new in the box. That will be interesting to use.
 
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gorbas

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Well, I think you still have some chance with NP-22, but for NP-27 your chances are slim. That ORWO film is at least 25 years old. I was using ORWO films from 1977 until 1994, mainly NP-20 and 22. Now I see that it was very decent film material but at that time we all cried to have Ilford and Kodak stuff. NP-15 was outstanding film, NP-27 was so-so comparing with TRI-X at that time. I shoot a lot of NP-55 and NP-7 movie film stock from 400' rolls. You can still buy NP-7 as ORWO N74. I dont think it changed at all. I prefered older NP-55 to current UN-54. For NP-7 I was using replenished Microphen, It was OK combination for student. I think if you use now ADOX it will be just fine. Did not mix Microphen for the last 24 years and I did not miss it at all. Good developer but never had a need for it.
 

Nokton48

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Thank you Gorbas,
I took another look in my freezer, and it is all Orwo NP20, and a few boxes of NP15.
I have Orwo NP20 in 6.5x9cm and 9x12cm.
NP22 is the newer version of NP20, correct?

I never buy faster films that are outdated. I misspoke on the NP27. Don't have any.

It is very difficult to buy any sheet films at all that will fit my Plaubel Makinas, and Makiflexes.
I figure this Orwo film is OK but you never know with old film. I got it fairly cheaply and I'm willing to take the chance.
The only other 6.5x9cm films I have found, are Ilford FP4+ (from UK) and Foma 200 (from Bulgaria). These are of course excellent films. But it is also good to also have the Orwo NP20 and NP15. :smile:

Have you ever used Fotopan FF (from Poland)?
I have seventy five sheets in 6.5x9cm (ISO 50)


DSC05884[1447] by Nokton48, on Flickr
 
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gorbas

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Yes, NP-22 replaced NP-20 in 35 and 120 formats. Change from 80asa to 125asa. I have to check my contact sheets for when switch happen. Mid 80's?? Not sure for plan/cut film. My biggest regret for ORWO is "discovering" NP-15 to late. Shot at 12asa in 120 and processed in HC110/H. I was using it mainly for studio still lifes etc. Thing of beauty!
Beside some paper never had chance to try Polish Foton material. Eastern European photo material factories also collaborated and repackaged each other products. I remember some very nice SSSR fiber graded paper made with Bulgarian-FOHAR (iirc) emulsion. It had ton of silver in it.
Most likely main use of 6x9 cut film was for ID pictures in the studios. Everybody else used roll film.
 
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Ian Grant

Ian Grant

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When I used developers like Adox M-Q Borax I was processing daily so had a big throughput and replenishment was the only real option, it was not designed to be used 1+1 but then neither was D76. The use at 1+1 to 1+3 came much later, I can't see any reason why it can't be used at 1+1, any MQ developer will shift over time but it shouldn't be an issue as you'll be using it up faster than if replenished.

Ian
 
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Ian Grant

Ian Grant

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It doesn't really matter, I used to replenish after every 5 films 9approx) I kept a small note book to keep track of throughput, that was with 2.5 litres of working solution. Typically though I've always processed a few films at a time in tanks that take 2 or 3 rolls of 120 film, or 2 6 sheet reels of 5x4, often with 2 or more tanks loaded at the same time.

Ian
 
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It doesn't really matter, I used to replenish after every 5 films 9approx) I kept a small note book to keep track of throughput, that was with 2.5 litres of working solution. Typically though I've always processed a few films at a time in tanks that take 2 or 3 rolls of 120 film, or 2 6 sheet reels of 5x4, often with 2 or more tanks loaded at the same time.

Ian

Replenishing after approximately 5 rolls makes perfect sense as one could be developing several rolls in the same tank and/or multiple tanks at the same time. So, is the correct way to replenish is add 5 x 20 = 100ml of replenisher to the developer and bleed away any excess old developer?
 
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