I agree. It seems inappropriate to be so dismissive after one bad experience that was almost certainly self-inflicted. Chemically, BT2B isn’t that different from D-23 anyway.At 5 minutes in both Am and B, there's no way you should have ended up with underdeveloped negs. Five minutes in each is quite a lot for FP4. I suspect your chemistry may have been faulty (or you underexposed the film?).
I was very happy with FP4+ developed for 4 + 4 minutes in Barry Thornton's 2 bath developer.I used Finch's recommendation, FP4, 5 mins in each, the negs were way undeveloped.
I think John's videos are targeting beginner photographers like me. I like watching them and am learning a lot from John.but lately he seems to be making videos for the sake of making videos with questionable content.
I developed 2 sheets of Fomapan 200 5x7 today in newely mixed Thornton 2-Bath and got strong coloration. Is this normal? Chemicals was mixed with deionized water and I let it sit for 24 hours before use.
However, the negatives turned out really well.
I used Finch's recommendation, FP4, 5 mins in each, the negs were way undeveloped. Don't think I'll bother with it again, happy back with D 23. I used to like Finch but lately he seems to be making videos for the sake of making videos with questionable content.
I developed 2 sheets of Fomapan 200 5x7 today in newely mixed Thornton 2-Bath and got strong coloration. Is this normal? Chemicals was mixed with deionized water and I let it sit for 24 hours before use.
However, the negatives turned out really well.
Your colors are vibrant! They look like Gatorades or Vitamin Waters.
My Part A comes back out looking like a champagne, golden rose, color and my Part B comes back as a lemonade looking solution.
I developed 2 sheets of Fomapan 200 5x7 today in newely mixed Thornton 2-Bath and got strong coloration. Is this normal? Chemicals was mixed with deionized water and I let it sit for 24 hours before use.
However, the negatives turned out really well.
Is that from the film's AH layer? I pre-wash before film goes in the part A.
Andy, why would you pre-wash the film when using a divided developer? The whole idea is to get as much developer absorbed into the emulsion before it comes in contact with the accelerator, and pre-wetting the film is going to mean less developing agent getting onto the emulsion. I mean - if that's working for you, that's fine - but its contrary to the technique of a divided developer.
Andy, why would you pre-wash the film when using a divided developer? The whole idea is to get as much developer absorbed into the emulsion before it comes in contact with the accelerator, and pre-wetting the film is going to mean less developing agent getting onto the emulsion. I mean - if that's working for you, that's fine - but its contrary to the technique of a divided developer.
Two more 13x18cm sheets and the developer is once again colored like it was some kind of radioctive waste product
Anyone here tried Thorntons 2-bath with HP5+ pushed 1 or 2 stops?
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However, Bath B should only be used 3 or 4 times before making a new bath, for the reasons stated (Bath B becomes more and more active as Bath A is carried over).
This is not what Barry Thornton said. I quoted him in this thread :
Thornton Two Bath & contrast control
For those who use TTB regularly but don't have Thornton's book Edge of Darkness, there are some interesting notes in there on contrast control when using the developer. I find them useful, as, with the heat of summer, I've noticed a slight increase in contrast (albeit with no blown highlights)...www.photrio.com
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