Actually my comment related to raw to jpeg conversion. At about 2.3EV above the meter reading the highlight would burn out in the jpeg. The raw can record 2/3 or 1 stop above that.
I try to shoot a bright scene by locking in the exposure at its brightest then recomposing using a + 1.7 -+2.3 EV compensation…
Actually my comment related to raw to jpeg conversion. At about 2.3EV above the meter reading the highlight would burn out in the jpeg. The raw can record 2/3 or 1 stop above that.
I have a harder time recovering highlights that were burned than shadows being under exposed …
It could be the software you are using.
I would hope that good subjects and lighting would force you to be a better photographer.
Not to mention the MD 262 having no “screen”, excuse the irony, helps with accomplishing the better photographer in its analogue form…
Was that translated from another language, because it makes no sense.
I have only one computer monitor for my Mac computer and it is a nice large size. I do my editing on that computer and that screen. I am not going to testing and buying one screen after another searching for the mythical better or perfect screen. I would rather spend my time and money with the lenses that I have collected and still use.
Not at this rate.
Totally agree…
a digital camera with an analog soul.
Is the version of "analog soul" firmware upgradable, though?
Nice to see that someone agrees with me.
It’s a mindset! Once you experience the version it automatically upgrades itself in use, a living soul…
Oh, that's grand.
Have you asked the thing to just output great colors every time for you, regardless of what monitors are out there in the world? Sounds like it should be able to do that, automatically, provided you have the right mindset.
Calibration affects the reproduction of HUES on a monitor, but does not correct inherent BRIGHTNESS. On my monitor, your image originally posted appeared a bit dark...the sky was lower in intensity than I would ordinarily expect. So I screen grabbed the photo, imported it to adjust exposure, and compare the two side by side.
The surrounding area of Lightroom, seen around the two shots, is midtone grey.
You should be able to see the full range of brightness and 26 distinct steps in the below range, when the Brightness and the Contrast of your monitor are properly adjusted (...and then do monitor calibration for Hue reproduction accuracy)
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What I was trying to convey, the Leica MD 262 is a digital camera with an analog soul.
I’ve been shooting film for over thirty years and never liked digital because of the “screen”, pun considered, so when I found out Leica created a digital camera that shoots like a film camera I couldn’t resist. I haven’t looked back since…
Use the histogram to see if the brightness is within the correct range. I see posters post photos that are too dark, and you can easily see that they are dark by one or two stops by checking the histogram. You don't even need a calibrated monitor to see that problem.
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