Build a shutter tester for Focal Plane shutters - Cheap, Easy & it Works

[Niglyn]

Hello Everybody, #1

There are many home-brew shutter testers out there, some use audio to try to detect the speed, others use an Arduino and one sensor (so will not work correctly) and there are better ones that use two sensors.

A problem seems to be a misunderstanding of how a focal plane shutter works & how it has two curtains. Shutter speed is a misnomer. The shutter curtains always travel at the same speed. It is the time difference between first & second curtain release, that varies the exposure. There are plenty of explanations of this & nice youtube slo-mo videos, which explain the workings better than I can in plain text.

So here is another one, mine. It is based on an Arduino Nano and Arduino laser tx rx modules & anybody who is able to tinker with camera repairs, should be able to make one without (much) difficulty. Parts are easily available on Ebay, Banggood, Aliexpress etc. & I will supply the code upon request.

Camera repair manuals often specify curtain speed. Without a way to measure the speed of each curtain, one cannot follow the calibration procedure. Both curtains have to travel at the same speed, else uneven exposure across the frame will occur. This unit measure the speed of each curtain and also the actual exposure (1/250 for example) at either end of exposure, so it can easily be seen if there are exposure problems

There are a number of stages to getting familiar with Arduino and setting up. I will go though these sections, to enable peeps to follow along & build one. Those familiar with Arduino can go right ahead, build the unit & load the code.
The steps are as follows:-
Buying the bits
Understanding how to use one's computer to talk to & load code onto the Arduino
Setting up the LCD, wiring & loading 'library' files
connecting the lasers modules to the Arduino
Loading the shutter tester code & setting up the device.

 

[OAPOli]

I'd be interested! I build an arduino type with one sensor/laser but I have a second set. But I don't know the sensor width nor its threshold level so I use it just as an indicator (especially for 1/1000), not for repair. You can get an idea of the curtain travel by taking two measurements at each edge of the frame. And it works well for leaf shutters. Upgrading it would be nice.

 

[Niglyn]

#2

So here is a photo of the shutter tester.
It uses cheap simple parts,
Arduino Nano
Arduino Nano breakout board (optional but it makes wiring far easier)
An Arduino 2004 LCD with built in 2IIC module
Dupont male to female hook up wires.
Arduino laser tx & rx modules, two of .

I have used some scrap wood to mount the lasers. They are 20mm apart. The distance between the tx & rx can be anything (within reason) mine is spaced for a box brownie )
The height of the lasers is such that a camera can be placed there horizontally or vertically, depending on the shutter orientation. A spacer is used under the camera to raised to the correct height.
The tx & rx units are hot-glued onto the wood. This allows for easy repositioning when required.

I just left mine like this, it could of course all be mounted into a project box

 

[Niglyn]

I'd be interested! I build an arduino type with one sensor/laser but I have a second set. But I don't know the sensor width nor its threshold level so I use it just as an indicator (especially for 1/1000), not for repair. You can get an idea of the curtain travel by taking two measurements at each edge of the frame. And it works well for leaf shutters. Upgrading it would be nice.

Hi, as you already have the parts & know Ardiono, pm me your email address & I will send you the code.

Measuring the curtain speed is easy. When first laser is seen, the time is recorded. When curtain moves across and the second laser is seen, again the time is recorded. Take these two away and that is the travel time )

Same happens in reverse for second curtain. So now four time measurements have been taken, which can be used to calculate first & second curtain speed and exposure at two sperate points during curtain travel.

I have plans to move to a faster processor & use five sensors. An additional two at either end of travel and one at the top. This way, flash sync can be measured as well as mirror up confirmation before exposure. However, the object of this tester, is to make one that is esy to build, cheap and works correctly.

 

[Niglyn]

#3

Hi,
Below are links to the parts required. They are valid now, but of course could become dead in the future.
At todays prices, the cost tots up to £25. It will be cheaper ordering from Aliexpress or Banggood, or the china shipped ones on Ebay.




Ardiono Nano V3 (This one is pre-soldered, most & the cheaper ones, you have to solder the header pins)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155268946210?hash=item2426c01922:g:~1kAAOSw3lVjsKZ~&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4GjC2pWk5qRaJxa6rFrr3A+a3Vne+Bm8hbnt43l75oaqTsHP0nKbsx6ZTJBJFh75JjapwNMo1eScLYeAiW9moGOFb434iRJ3a6GHbsHoD+Zf24DtR1WcW/muuvQICIFNbBBSmgvg05C4HWTqJFct8YcF4GAzUXpRSnTytJueuVgaJ81UUCccdxmhtoSZPVwjwWqAqWh4z2odaC5QdV2yQONIVSq8qjlF4PTtTrrbAURzB/LNTIISxnfw9DgSjWTmc1Fv/h1kHX5EJo9ZsAzielDdNqP9+SkOmXmWyxuVAp5F|tkp:BFBMhoWz39Fh&fbclid=IwAR0HA_Crk-CAhXYe1MBT14N6i78jaDGHql5A_6zNG-PT--zG_0QuWR_UHaA


Arduino Nano prototype board. The screw terminals and header sockets may require soldering to the board.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25574030...8qHqzcZBwVw-nd_T5d4N1YcF87EgU9wsM_kpwdtfZM_nY


Laser tx & rx module. Two sets required. The sensor is supplied loose. Ensure you insert it the correct way round. Little bubble lens points towards the header pins.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123956379816?_trkparms=pageci:ff42177b-b5db-11ed-b074-8e404db11160|parentrq:8df9befa1860a2436f563421fffcd8f0|iid:1&_trksid=p2380057.c101526.m146925&fbclid=IwAR3j0N_jFKx1-UqNmj6t8qoPV-sbr0HPwOcXZ_R8_OMrsk_M-MeKL4uGfss


LCD. Ensure you get a module that includes the IIC or i2C module. You can save money and not buy the LCD. The code also prints the results to the PC screen.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263042637252?epid=19003451043&hash=item3d3e901dc4:g:MzYAAOSw3wJi46O3&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4CXIssHpa4UWAMaHTDt6PAWkXr1jpU7+ydptILFg00BOLAPMjkzE7NaKqzuUi1q5pC6N5QNIqY0CWfphDw7m8tl3iYZs76DgKa1jfxJITC0uBGk/ywO9JYsDVWyF+99O5TtOaeo1iGD/0YNswMveQf7qXhN6XARtdzU8OqH7OQY6xAfJmVbZwc1w73x2aKQn2BEq7Nd8cM68w9Fw5TC8H0rjVdqT4S8BUA7/Ybn4I/Odd9/qi+FDP/uR6XTGypAcfSye0ofNGrOyUrVnF1wVmoFeEwOfALYT1nvhzsM5FAL0|tkp:BFBM9urb39Fh&fbclid=IwAR20DfmBevRwX-yyaunNGCQpWz1fXVagBq6yM5sN3ok_DdIS64GhfMDHEuc

Dupont wires. Get the 30cm male to female ones.

40 Dupont Jump Wire M-F M-M F-F Jumper Breadboard Cable Lead Arduino HOBBY UK PO | eBay

10 Different Colours, 120units copper cable in total, for making prototypes with arduino boards, stepper motor 3D printer etc, The combinations provide a jumper for whatever you need. Including 40 pin male to female jumper wires,40 pin male to male jumper wires, 40 pin female to female jumper wires.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Niglyn]

#4

The next step is getting setup with Arduino.

Arduino is a microprocessor that has been mounted onto a development board, complete with power regulator, USB socket, programming interface chip and all the pins bought out to header pins.
It makes a great platform for tinkerers, we do not need to source the separate components, make PCBs etc. It is all ready to go. There are different versions. We are using the Nano. It is a cut down version of the UNO.

To get started, one has to load the software onto your computer. The software is called Arduino IDE. Google it.
There are loads of getting started with Arduino tutorials on the Youtube, so look at some of these to get up and running.

The next stage is to load code onto the Arduino from your computer. This is the hardest part. Again there are loads of tubes to help get you up and running.
There are some gotchas. Most of the clone Nano boards require 'use old bootloader' to be selected in the Arduino computer program when loading code.
You also may have to load the CH341 driver.

I will post some links for some getting started videos below.

This link shows downloading the comuter program. If you are typing along with Paul, when he uses 13 for 'pinMode', change this to 16. Reason being the built in LED on Nano is on pin 16.




Loading code onto the Nano




Two gotchas, you may need to load the CH340 driver. Most Nano clones also require 'use old bootloader' to be selected when loading code onto the board. this Vid describes both





Hopefully, you will now be able to connect to the Arduino Nano board and download code.

 

[Niglyn]

#5
Hopefully, you are now able to connect from your computer to the Arduino Nano and load code onto it.

The next stage is to connet the LCD and check it is working ok. This is an optional step, but by setting up the LCD now, you know it is wired up correctly and working. This will make any troubleshooting in the future, much easier.

The Arduino can use extra code, drivers if you like, that it imports into itself. These are called library files. For these to be imported, they must first be loaded onto your computer. To use the LCD, two library files are needed.

This video shows how to wire up the LCD, download the library file, find the address of your board and load test code to seethe LCD work. There is a pot on the back of the LCD to adjust contrast, you may have to adjust this to see the text.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

EXCELLENT - thank you!

 

[BHuij]

Very cool. I think I'm going to make something like this too, copying your concept and implementing with stuff I have on hand. Coding it in CircuitPython would be a good exercise for me haha.

 

[Niglyn]

#6
Wiring up the lasers tx & rx.

Hi everyone,
If you are following along, now we can wire up the tx & rx modules.

The laser TX, the unit with the brass barrel, has three header pins.
Connect the pin marked 'S' to '5V' on the Arduino.
The Middle pin is not used.
Connect the pin marked '-' to '0V' on the Arduino

Wire the second laser exactly the same.


The receiver module will require the sensor plugging into the three female socket holes on the board. Make sure the little bubble lens on the sensor is pointing towards the header pins.

There are three header pins on the rx module.
Connect 'VCC' to 5V on the Arduino
Connect the middle pin, marked 'OUT' to pin 2 on the Arduino
Connect 'GND' to 0V on the Arduino

On the second rx module, the middle 'OUT pin gets wired to pin 3 on the Arduino.

Viewed from behind the camera, the right rx sensor is sensor 1 (wired to pin 2) and the left sensor is sensor 2 (wired to pin 3)

When the Arduino is powerd (by connecting the USB cable) the red LEDs on the rx modules should light.

Please post here any difficulties or queries and solutions, as it may help other peeps who are stuck.

When ready, PM me via this form & I will send yo the code.

A jig will need constructing to hold the tx & rx in a suitable position. I just used some wood, cut to the correct height and glued to a piece of plywood. The tx & rx were hot glued.

You can of course box it all up in a project box & make it all look neat & even mount the rx into a boxthat fits in the back of the camera, against the gate, in the same way a 'professional' unit does.

Please post your finished project photos )


There will be a few code updates & I will post here when they are available.

Happy building )

 

[Flighter]

Hi Niglyn

Many thanks for this post, which has finally prompted me to sign up!

All the bits and pieces have been ordered (thanks for the links which made it super-easy) so just waiting for the post to deliver!

Now I'm off to Youtube to learn a bit more about Arduino!

Thanks again!

 

[koraks]

Thanks for posting your project! It shows that a perfectly functional shutter tester can be built with only a handful off-the-shelf modules that are cheaply available across the globe. Cool!

If you are typing along with Paul, when he uses 13 for 'pinMode', change this to 16. Reason being the built in LED on Nano is on pin 16.

I think on the original Nano the LED is on 13 alright (PB5):

This is from the Arduino Nano schematic V3.2 ; I don't think many changes have been made to the LED arrangement.
However, clones from China could have the onboard LED on pretty much any GPIO. Not all clones necessarily follow the schematic of the original, although the ones I've got here do. Hence, it's possible that on your particular board the LED really is on 16 (pin PC2 / A2). Btw, this would be an unfortunate choice as it will interfere with some applications where one would like to use ADC2 as an analog input. Having a fairly low impedance LED on there would pose a load on any analog signal one might want to measure. Hence, a well-designed clone should either follow the original or use another suitable GPIO for the LED.

When ready, PM me via this form & I will send yo the code.

Would you be willing to share the code here on the forum as a download? This would make the project work even in case you're unavailable and can't respond to queries anymore. Keep in mind that several years from now, people may (will) still find your project and may want to build it!

 

[Flighter]

I ordered all the bits yesterday morning and the first one, the Arduino Nano board, arrived in the post this morning, impressively quick delivery. Loaded the Linux version of the Arduino IDE onto my desktop tonight and eventually managed to get my computer to talk to it, loading the 'blink' example - it took me a while to get it set-up as I only found the 'Tools/Processor' option with the 'old bootloader' displayed in the IDE once I realised it was a Nano board and not a Uno! PEBKAC!

My Nano board running the 'blink' example program - not that you can see it flashing!

Now I just need the other bits to arrive.

 

[Alfz]

Hi, excellent project, highly appreciated.

I followed your post and built the system as per your information, only the code is missing, you can send it to me?, thanks

 

[koraks]

Welcome to Photrio, @Alfz !
I expect @Niglyn will be around soon to respond to your request. In case he overlooks it, drop me a note so I can try to get you into touch with him directly.

Good luck with your project!

 

[canaq]

Thanks Niglyn! This is what I was looking for, but I haven't got the knowledge to design this myself Great work! Parts have been ordered, can't wait to start with it. Would you be so kind to send the code to me as well?

 

[pemcg]

This looks great. I've ordered the parts, @Niglyn is there any chance you could post the code onto something like Github? I'm a retired (open source) software engineer and I'd love to be able to take a look.

 

[koraks]

you could post the code onto something like Github?

Excellent suggestion and I'd very much emphasize this. Moreover, it would really help if others are in a position to improve on a given starting point. Yes, it can be a painful/confronting experience if people point your code is full of holes after working hard on it for many hours. But in the end, everyone's better off that way if the project is intended for replication by others.

 

[Niglyn]

Thanks for posting your project! It shows that a perfectly functional shutter tester can be built with only a handful off-the-shelf modules that are cheaply available across the globe. Cool!



I think on the original Nano the LED is on 13 alright (PB5):
View attachment 331767
This is from the Arduino Nano schematic V3.2 ; I don't think many changes have been made to the LED arrangement.
However, clones from China could have the onboard LED on pretty much any GPIO. Not all clones necessarily follow the schematic of the original, although the ones I've got here do. Hence, it's possible that on your particular board the LED really is on 16 (pin PC2 / A2). Btw, this would be an unfortunate choice as it will interfere with some applications where one would like to use ADC2 as an analog input. Having a fairly low impedance LED on there would pose a load on any analog signal one might want to measure. Hence, a well-designed clone should either follow the original or use another suitable GPIO for the LED.



Would you be willing to share the code here on the forum as a download? This would make the project work even in case you're unavailable and can't respond to queries anymore. Keep in mind that several years from now, people may (will) still find your project and may want to build it!

Hi,
Yes, I think you are right. I just saw it on the interweb that nano has LED on pin 16, which did seem a little strange to me. I have limited access to tech right now, so was unable to check. Have just tried my nano and indeed LED is on pin 13.

 

[Niglyn]

I ordered all the bits yesterday morning and the first one, the Arduino Nano board, arrived in the post this morning, impressively quick delivery. Loaded the Linux version of the Arduino IDE onto my desktop tonight and eventually managed to get my computer to talk to it, loading the 'blink' example - it took me a while to get it set-up as I only found the 'Tools/Processor' option with the 'old bootloader' displayed in the IDE once I realised it was a Nano board and not a Uno! PEBKAC!

My Nano board running the 'blink' example program - not that you can see it flashing!
View attachment 331911
Now I just need the other bits to arrive.

Hi,
That's great )
getting the computer talking to the Arduino is probably the hardest bit.
Should have said, in the Arduino, IDE, in the 'Tools' tab, one has to select the correct board 'Nano'
and just below this, Processor, is one selects 'ATmega 328P (Old bootloader)

I have a dedicated Nano with a program loaded, to update the bootloader on any Arduino, kindly written by Nick Gammon. l load the 'Optiboot' bootloader, which frees some extra program memory.

 

[Niglyn]

This looks great. I've ordered the parts, @Niglyn is there any chance you could post the code onto something like Github? I'm a retired (open source) software engineer and I'd love to be able to take a look.

Sorry no, not using Github. PM me for the code.

 

[Niglyn]

Excellent suggestion and I'd very much emphasize this. Moreover, it would really help if others are in a position to improve on a given starting point. Yes, it can be a painful/confronting experience if people point your code is full of holes after working hard on it for many hours. But in the end, everyone's better off that way if the project is intended for replication by others.

How dare you suggest my code is full of holes )
I'm not using github, pm me for the code.

 

[Niglyn]

This looks great. I've ordered the parts, @Niglyn is there any chance you could post the code onto something like Github? I'm a retired (open source) software engineer and I'd love to be able to take a look.

PM me for the code.
As a softie, you should be able to write something yourself )
It is so easy, two sensors using two interrupts.
How easy /advanced it becomes, is up to the programmer )

I chose to use an LCD, so it can be stand-alone. There is a version floating around by another person, whose code is very similar, but they opted not to use the LCD and data outputs to computer only.

 

[Niglyn]

Thanks Niglyn! This is what I was looking for, but I haven't got the knowledge to design this myself Great work! Parts have been ordered, can't wait to start with it. Would you be so kind to send the code to me as well?

PM me for the code.
I am planning to update the code as, although it works fine, is not as tidy as it could be, so will post here when updates are available.
If peeps want, I can other features like flash sync check, but the build will become more complicated.

 

[koraks]

PM me for the code.

Please keep in mind that freshly registered users can't start private conversations. They can't PM you for the code.

I really think for all involved it works best if the code is available for direct download somewhere. It doesn't have to be GitHub. Someplace where it's likely to remain available for the years to come would be ideal.

Please also consider what I said earlier about possibly using interest in the whole thing at some point. People will still want to build your project in the future, even if for whatever reason you're no longer in a position to supply them with your sketch.