There's a bit of a hint that the paper is not made in China:
"CUSMA Qualified" means it's made in Mexico, USA, or Canada. "One of the rules of origin that is commonly found in all agreements is that goods must be “wholly obtained” or “produced entirely in the territory of one or more of the Parties”." -- from here.
It is made by a company called Inkpress. They also make halftone film.
reinforces my suspicion that it's an older Kodak paper
Well still a mystery. There is no country of manufacture on the envelope and no data sheet inside the package.
@GregY, print a low-key image with large dark/black areas on a full 8x10" sheet. Verify if the black is not mottled. It's the one aspect I can imagine this paper might show compromise on. Well, that, and it may only be grade 1 through 4 and not 0 through 5, but I wouldn't consider that a fatal flaw.
Koraks i didn't buy any 8x10". just 5x7...... i will in the future if it remains in stock at B&H
Oh, doesn't matter; 5x7 will do fine for this test as well.
If you take that print of the mountains and inspect the foreground, do you see any mottling? If not, that would be great. This is sometimes the Achilles heel of low-end papers. There is/was a paper marketed by Adox (Easyprint) that performed quite poorly in this respect. I'm not sure if it's still on the market, and if Adox actually manufacture it.
I think it's lucky(if you want you can cut a small piece and take a picture of it so i can see its emotion color)
Btw I find out this paper's Dmax is around 1.7+(only when toned can get to 2.1+),Foma ilford can go up to 2.1+ to2.2+,Which makes this paper only can do negative whose density range(from shooes to shoulder) is within 1.5
Hmmm... reinforces my suspicion that it's an older Kodak paper. Maybe someone got hold of the last batch of Kodak Master Rolls from their paper plant?
I would much rather it be a secret, clandestine paper manufacturer, leaping in the void to produce a less expensive paper for the masses, but I stopped reading comic books many decades ago...
I think it's lucky
Kodak RC paper would be at least 18 years old now.
I just made some test prints with Multitone VC RC. I got it from my local camera shop (they gave me a 25 sheet pack and asked me to test it) and I'm guessing it's the same thing being peddled by B&H.
I VC split print everything and my reference is Fombabrom Variant 111 VC FB Glossy toned in KRST 1:40. With that in mind, here's what I found:
- The Multitone soft emulsion is slower than the Fombabrom and requires more exposure to get the same highlight density.
- The Multitone hard emulsion is faster than the Fombarom and requires less exposure to get the same shadow density.
- Fomabrom tones beautifully in KRST 1:40 in 3-5 minutes. Multitone showed almost no color change after 10 minutes. This likely means that it needs a higher concentration of KRST.
- I still hate the look for RC paper but its OK for making contact sheets.
- Foma is still the most beautiful paper I've seen since the original Zone VI Graded.
I just made some test prints with Multitone VC RC. I got it from my local camera shop (they gave me a 25 sheet pack and asked me to test it) and I'm guessing it's the same thing being peddled by B&H.
I VC split print everything and my reference is Fombabrom Variant 111 VC FB Glossy toned in KRST 1:40. With that in mind, here's what I found:
- The Multitone soft emulsion is slower than the Fombabrom and requires more exposure to get the same highlight density.
- The Multitone hard emulsion is faster than the Fombarom and requires less exposure to get the same shadow density.
- Fomabrom tones beautifully in KRST 1:40 in 3-5 minutes. Multitone showed almost no color change after 10 minutes. This likely means that it needs a higher concentration of KRST.
- I still hate the look for RC paper but its OK for making contact sheets.
- Foma is still the most beautiful paper I've seen since the original Zone VI Graded.
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