Most of Beseler's color diffusion heads were designed to be used with the condenser removed -- but with the Dichro 45, Dichro 45S, and Universal 45, the condenser can be retained with an adapter: Beseler describes it as "a different look". The diffusion head basically becomes the light bulb for the condenser.
http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/enlargers.htm
Okay, some of that is starting to make sense...but since I'm a relatively low-watt bulb in and of myself, I need some science explained to me:
How does the positioning of the condenser in relation to the diffusion material impact efficiency from the perspective of the negative, and therefore the print?
It seems that if any given amount of light traverses a given distance with a constant amount of interruptions along the way - i.e. the condenser lenses and the diffusion plate - then there should be no change in the energy that's transmitted, no matter where those interruptions lie or in what order they're arranged...but if that's not what actually takes place then what seems correct must be wrong. So: would it be more correct to assume that placing the condenser adjacent to the source is effectively changing the amount of light that's actually being transmitted to the remainder of the system?
Also, how would a diffused light source impact this arrangement?
Whatever works, works. You could hypothetically double-diffuse it with two spaced apart diffusion sheets to get more even illumination.
You could alter the light source and remove any condensers entirely. Or you could just change out the entire head. There are all kinds of methods.
What model and format size of enlarger are you actually intending to alter? That would be nice to know if you want specific answers.
I've done all kinds of conversions; but the most direct approach is to simply remove the condenser head and replace it with a modern colorhead or other diffusion source.
Adjustments can result in meaningful portions of the light either not reaching the negative or reaching the negative at an angle that doesn't result in that light being imaged through the lens on to the paper. In other words, effectively becoming non-imaging flare that doesn't even add fog to the image.
For clarity, a well designed enlarger light source system limits and controls any such poorly used illumination.
But there always will be some.
And finally, a condenser enlarger that uses a frosted bulb is itself a Condenser/Diffuser hybrid.
The frosting on the bulb is itself a diffuser.
Hard to say about any old Aristo cold light head. Depends on their condition; and they need to be distinctly oversized for even illumination.
I use an oversized Aristo VC54 blue-green cold light on one of my 8x10 enlargers; but that's a different story.
The Beseler 4x5 chassis should be easily convertible to one of their colorheads, which are quite convenient for VC printing too. But If you want to stick with the old beehive condenser head, I suggest you get some scrap pieces of 1/16 inch thick "Sign White" acrylic plastic, and cut them down to the appropriate size to experiment with between your light bulb and the negative stage itself. That's the cheapest way to get started, and might be all you need. Or the plastics shop could cut them to size for you for a modest fee. "Sign White" is more translucent than regular white Plexiglas or Acrylite of the same thickness.
Don't let this kind of project intimidate you. Try to have fun with it. It's hard to go wrong with a few sheets of diffuser plastic; but it might take some experimentation to arrive at the best effect.
Most of Beseler's color diffusion heads were designed to be used with the condenser removed -- but with the Dichro 45, Dichro 45S, and Universal 45, the condenser can be retained with an adapter: Beseler describes it as "a different look". The diffusion head basically becomes the light bulb for the condenser.
http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/enlargers.htm
I tried this several years ago. Basically the adapter for using condenser with the colorhead did what could be expected, added contrast. I still have the adapter somewhere. Looks cool.
Late-night pondering: what about a high-wattage LED in place of the standard bulb, well above the condenser stack, and then some sign white acrylic? Sandwich a filter drawer in there somewhere and I would be good to go... assuming that the LED is getting the output I need for the Ilford filters that I use.
Yeah, should work. I use something conceptually similar from a light-path viewpoint. I don't use filters, but instead a controllable array of R, G and B LEDs, so I dial in whatever filtration I need digitally.
However, you can indeed use a white LED source, optionally add a diffusion panel if the light path in your enlarger requires it, and use old-fashioned filters. Several people have replaced their tungsten/halogen light bulbs for LED ones and have reported good results.
If all you'll do is B&W and split grade with just blue and green, then a simple switch would be the easiest.
I use a Durst 138 which has the swappable condensers in neat little (uhm) modules, that can slide in and out of the chassis. I was once gifted a (broken) cold light module that slid into the lower condenser socket, which sits right above the negative. I still have to build a light source into this one; it would result in something very similar to the Heiland system. https://heilandelectronic.de/led_kaltlicht/lang:en However, I've always preferred to stick with the original condenser setup for reasons of efficiency and print qualities. Although I admit that either argument is very debatable and it's probably in my head more so than on the paper. However, this is what I went with and what I've stuck with so far, with very little need to 'upgrade' to a diffusion light source. Building the latter would be more a case of "because I can" than anything else.
A diffusor system is easier to implement, though, in terms of getting even illumination. If you have an enlarger in which you can fit a regular household white LED bulb, then that's of course the easiest approach
But if you have a hybrid diffuser/condenser system (such as what I'm using), then it can take some experimentation to get even illumination especially when using an array of emitters. Milky plexiglass, carboard and duct tape are your friends in figuring out the appropriate distance between light source and diffuser, and diffuser and condenser stack.
Given equivalent blue and green intensity, however, I could probably just turn both of them on and get a 2.5, and maybe adjust the current to dim things a bit.
Does that seem correct?
Is it just a middle-of-the-road situation with qualities of both, or does it create something entirely new?
I'd like to see that, if you happen to find it.
So, it looks like all of the later colorheads were quartz-powered. I don't really think I have a ton of desire to go that route, but yeah...the housing might be good for some kind of diffuser array over a condenser. Maybe I could look for a broken one, if I go that route; right now it's all just theoretical. I'm hoping to keep my exposures short but I really don't want to give up the diffuse light source; that's been critical for many of my prints.
Late-night pondering: what about a high-wattage LED in place of the standard bulb, well above the condenser stack, and then some sign white acrylic? Sandwich a filter drawer in there somewhere and I would be good to go... assuming that the LED is getting the output I need for the Ilford filters that I use.
In the absence of a colour head I use under-lens filters. For anything critical the filter drawer is an option, but honestly I can't tell any difference in the result.
Two points. First, if you check out the link I provided above, you'll see that Beseler offered colorheads that used incandescent light bulbs and LEDs, as well.
As to the Beseler Condensesr Light Chamber...
The extension collar and the Condenser Light Chamber basically mimic a P211 light bulb on top of the condenser (which Matt has accurately pointed out is really a diffuse light source) with the colorhead throwing colored light into the mix. You get the same exact effect if you simply slide CC filters into the filter holder of the standard Beseler condenser -- Beseler actually referred to their condenser heads as "Bescolor" because you could use them for making color prints with CC filters.
For split printing with a V54 cold light all you need are good quality deep blue and deep green glass filters below the lens. More practical than a filter drawer.
Over the decades, Beseler has offered quite a range of different colorheads; and then the company itself changed ownership during part of that cycle. Some of us were extremely displeased with their discontinuity in servicing previous units. Hopefully that has changed by now; but it is somewhat a risk when multiple new innovations come out, and as each gets abandoned for something allegedly better, the former product becomes an unwanted stepdaughter in terms of servicing or parts.
That's why I favor equipment in my own darkroom which I am personally able to maintain and repair if needed. Otherwise, one might get stranded on a desert island.
With some of their colorheads they supplied a thick convex moulded white acrylic diffuser at the bottom of the tube. That is for sake of trying to get more even illumination at the negative stage plane if full 4x5 film is involved. But it also absorbs quite a bit of light. There are better workaround options to that; but I don't want to make the conversation too complicated unless the actual need arises.
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