Namely when a photo device can only be partially repaired but not fully restored.
Isn't it a shame to waste the many hours of concentrated work if the camera, lens or winder cannot be used because the shutter does not work, the lens remains cloudy and the motor stops working?
Even though the film transport, aperture and rewind were successfully repaired?
End of line reached: The shutter will not be repairable. Is it still worth continuing to work on the camera?
That is a legitimate question,
because the point of a repair is to get something working again.
If it didn't work before the repair and it didn't work afterward either, why go to all the trouble, even if two out of three problems could be solved?
New level
I think this topic takes DIY repairs to a new level.
It is then no longer just about restoring a device, but about solving sub-problems, which in themselves represent individual projects.
Example: Power supply
For example, it is possible to restore the power supply to a camera.
This time, however, not through trial and error, such as changing the batteries, cleaning contacts or redoing soldering points on suspicion.
Instead, it is possible to measure the power supply with a multimeter in a targeted and systematic manner and thus find and correct the error.
Targeted measurements with a multimeter lead directly to the problem.
This allows you to use your electronics knowledge, perhaps even expand it, learn about the topic and gain know-how for future repairs.
Even if in this case the camera does not work despite the power supply being repaired because the shutter blades are irreparably bent.
It is also about finding new goals in DIY
The camera does not work after the repair, but it was possible to find out how the double-switched shutter contact works. This may help with a future repair project.
To improve, to learn for future repair projects and thus to find new meaning that goes beyond restoring a photo device.
Thanks to my Nikon F-301, which got me thinking about this topic
Isn't it a shame to waste the many hours of concentrated work if the camera, lens or winder cannot be used because the shutter does not work, the lens remains cloudy and the motor stops working?
Even though the film transport, aperture and rewind were successfully repaired?
End of line reached: The shutter will not be repairable. Is it still worth continuing to work on the camera?
That is a legitimate question,
because the point of a repair is to get something working again.
If it didn't work before the repair and it didn't work afterward either, why go to all the trouble, even if two out of three problems could be solved?
New level
I think this topic takes DIY repairs to a new level.
It is then no longer just about restoring a device, but about solving sub-problems, which in themselves represent individual projects.
Example: Power supply
For example, it is possible to restore the power supply to a camera.
This time, however, not through trial and error, such as changing the batteries, cleaning contacts or redoing soldering points on suspicion.
Instead, it is possible to measure the power supply with a multimeter in a targeted and systematic manner and thus find and correct the error.
Targeted measurements with a multimeter lead directly to the problem.
This allows you to use your electronics knowledge, perhaps even expand it, learn about the topic and gain know-how for future repairs.
Even if in this case the camera does not work despite the power supply being repaired because the shutter blades are irreparably bent.
It is also about finding new goals in DIY
The camera does not work after the repair, but it was possible to find out how the double-switched shutter contact works. This may help with a future repair project.
To improve, to learn for future repair projects and thus to find new meaning that goes beyond restoring a photo device.
Thanks to my Nikon F-301, which got me thinking about this topic
Nikon F-301: Shutter replacement
The top cover could be easily removed after loosening seven screws? Apparently the sliding switch wasn't an issue for you. But getting the c-clamp back in could be do to lack of room to manipulate it. I noticed that you didn't remove the circuit board to reveal the prism as I must do to...
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