You could make up your own E3 chemistry, E4 film needed E3 or E4 processing, most kits were actually E3.
Ian
Ian, while you are an absolute wealth of information on most photo subjects, this information is wrong.
I started processing Ektachrome before E-4, .. . . . It will not process in E-3 chemistry. E-4 was a step on the way to E-6, an intermediate step and had a process and temperature higher than E-3 films could endure.
Kodak made E-4 kits in hobby-packs and 1 gallon kits, as well as larger sizes for commercial use.
Could anyone post the info for that lab in the UK, please? I will be in Edinburgh for three weeks this summer, and I can ship the film to the lab from there.
I didn't think Google would find it so quickly
This is the company I was referring to earlier in the thread.
Ian
E4 films used 4 equivalent couplers which did not fully form the dyes in the developer. They formed the final dyes using the oxidation power of the ferricyanide bleach to oxidize the leuco dye to the fully colored form. Therefore, use of an E6 bleach or blix will not give proper color. You must use a ferri bleach for E1 - E4 films.
PE
HS Ektachrome was often cross processed in C-22 using an ISO of up to 400. The famous cover of Life magazine of Alan Sheppard leaving his Mercury capsule was 4x5 HS Ektacrhome that was cross processed at the Cape. Many rolls of HS Ektachrome were burned that day.
PE
A little Googling turned up this Kodak PDF with E-4 formulas, so you can mix it yourself if you've got the ingredients. (I've only skimmed the ingredient list. Mostly it's common stuff if you mix your own, but there are some items I didn't immediately recognize.) That PDF lacks time and temperature information, but I'm sure you can find that information if you look hard enough.
Thanks for answering!Scott, you need the E3 formulae, this was what Kodak themselves sold and published for home processing E4 films, it's fully compatible with E4 films. I do have it in a few books but not scanned.
Welcome BTW.
ian
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