Wonder why he uploaded that more than a year after his exhibition.
It doesn't work that way. You can't just "scale up." Large prints are their own beasts. Things change as you go larger, especially with smaller negatives. Contrast drops. Tonal relationships change.
I do have one of his books.
Have you ever tried using one of the already available f-stop timers? Derek is working on making an improved and modernized one. His documentation links to more detailed blog posts he wrote.
That looks amazingly identical to the RH Designs Stop Clock. Is this the same person?
That looks amazingly identical to the RH Designs Stop Clock. Is this the same person?
He must be using either some of the same suppliers or bought surplus from RH designs.
No I've never gotten into the F-Stop timing thing. I knew Nocon who invented it and produced the first F-Stop timer. I never saw the point to it.
There really isn't that much need for so much precision in the darkroom I don't think. A tenth of a second either way won't matter at all
I prefer a more organic approach. I just print by instinct but I've been doing it a long time. I kind of go by volume of light, imagining the tones rising off the paper. Everyone is different though, so do whatever works.
As this thread just came to my attention, I figured I should jump in and offer my own comments.He must be using either some of the same suppliers or bought surplus from RH designs.
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However, I am using the same buttons. They're made by Marquardt and from the 6425 series. I picked them because I really like how they feel. Its a similar touch to a computer keyboard, but with flatter key caps. I haven't really found anything else I like better that's an off-the-shelf part.
Of course the RH boxes were all designed in the mid 90's, and my hardware is contemporary, so the innards are completely different. The firmware on mine is also user-update-able, so I expect the actual user experience to evolve over time.
One of the large buttons on my RH designs Stopclock is intermittently unresponsive, frustrating to say the least. I am not sure if it is the button or the circuitry causing the problem, but since I am in the US it is difficult to have the unit checked. I have high hopes for the long-delayed Maya timer.As this thread just came to my attention, I figured I should jump in and offer my own comments.
I'm not using the same suppliers at RH Designs. However, I am using the same buttons. They're made by Marquardt and from the 6425 series. I picked them because I really like how they feel. Its a similar touch to a computer keyboard, but with flatter key caps. I haven't really found anything else I like better that's an off-the-shelf part.
Though I will admit there's a lot of physical design similarity. That's because the design just makes sense from a hardware perspective, and is sufficiently simple to dial in, and because I used RH equipment before jumping into my own project. Of course the RH boxes were all designed in the mid 90's, and my hardware is contemporary, so the innards are completely different. The firmware on mine is also user-update-able, so I expect the actual user experience to evolve over time.
It gets more complicated when you work in fraction of a stop.Am I missing something that learning to multiply and divide by 2 hasn't solved?
It gets more complicated when you work in fraction of a stop.
Yeah, it took a little bit of work to figure out what they were, but I showed pictures to some friends who thought they looked familiar from a different product and we eventually nailed it down.Those buttons really do feel great; can't argue that fact at all.
Yes, its absolutely possible. Though like many things, there's a big difference between "Can the hardware do it?" and "What would the user interface/experience be for actually configuring and using the feature?"And while we're not on the subject, I have a question: is it even remotely possible to have two separate outputs on a timer like this? Specifically, to control two different light sources from the same unit, albeit on different channels?
My RH Analyser Pro had button debouncing issues when I got it. There's one button where you'd press it once, and the device would go unresponsive while it kept registering button presses. I think it stopped doing that after I resoldered it a few times. I suspect RH is doing debouncing in the firmware, and their routine isn't perfect. Most likely it worked fine on the initial test units, but the real world has a lot more hardware variability.One of the large buttons on my RH designs Stopclock is intermittently unresponsive, frustrating to say the least. I am not sure if it is the button or the circuitry causing the problem, but since I am in the US it is difficult to have the unit checked. I have high hopes for the long-delayed Maya timer.
Yeah, when its fractions of a stop you're multiplying by powers of 2. So adding 1/2 stop to a 10 second exposure is "10 * 2^0.5" which comes out to 14.1s, and subtracting a 1/2 stop is "10 * 2^-0.5" which comes out to 7.1s. Not hard to do with a calculator, but not so easy to do in your head. (And a calculator isn't so easy to see in a darkroom.)Am I missing something that learning to multiply and divide by 2 hasn't solved?
What I usually do is, lets say I have a 20 second initial exposure and I want to add 1½ stops.
20 seconds + 1 stop = 40 sec.
20 seconds + 2 stops = 80 sec.
so, for the ½ stop, I just aim in the middle: 60 seconds.
the real way to calculate is 20 secs x 21.5=56.5 seconds.
so just having a calculator can help. Or just having a table that lists the most common exposure times and the different f/stops variations can do the trick.
I should really make one of those on a spreadsheet.
Yes, its absolutely possible. Though like many things, there's a big difference between "Can the hardware do it?" and "What would the user interface/experience be for actually configuring and using the feature?"
My unit has 3 outputs on the back for controlling light sources. Two are your typical relay-switched outlets, and are currently hard-coded to be used for the "enlarger" and "safelights." The third output is a DMX512-compatible control port, and is designed to be useful for basically anything that can be controlled via that protocol. This is great because lots of compatible off-the-shelf hardware already exists. The intended use is multi-channel LED heads and also safelights. Of course the UI and control scheme for this is still something that I'm figuring out, but initially it'll likely be based on how the Heiland and/or Intrepid LED heads do their control interface. (But either way, its still going to have a lot of configurability by necessity.)
So what's your multi-output use case?
Yeah, when its fractions of a stop you're multiplying by powers of 2. So adding 1/2 stop to a 10 second exposure is "10 * 2^0.5" which comes out to 14.1s, and subtracting a 1/2 stop is "10 * 2^-0.5" which comes out to 7.1s. Not hard to do with a calculator, but not so easy to do in your head. (And a calculator isn't so easy to see in a darkroom.)
And then if you want to do dodging/burning in stop units, it just piles on.
Am I missing something that learning to multiply and divide by 2 hasn't solved?
Exactly, a half stop here, a third of a stop there.......you can almost see it before you do it.All the better you are able to make a decision about how much to dodge and burn.
You’re missing the fun of making test strips in increments having each step be a difference that you can easily discern, without seriously overshooting “too light” or “too dark”.
Exactly what you just mentioned: a two-channel LED head. When I'm split printing I want to be able to start on my soft/#00 exposure and only illuminate the array for soft contrast, and when I go to the hard/#5 contrast I want to only illuminate that array.
You could achieve that by having a multi-colored light source that's DMX controllable.
What I usually do is make a single test strip, develop the print and then make a plan for the final image. When you get used to thinking in terms of f/stops, it gets to be not that bad. The hardest thing is learning to convert from linear density to exponential exposure in your head. That's where the f/stops come into play.You’re missing the fun of making test strips in increments having each step be a difference that you can easily discern, without seriously overshooting “too light” or “too dark”.
You could achieve that by having a multi-colored light source that's DMX controllable. Does it exist? IDK, never looked for it. You could of course build an interface box between any array of light sources on one end and a DMX interface on the other. Maybe something like that is already available off the shelf.
That's probably easy to hack together on big enlargers like Omega D's and Besseler 45 by using some stage lights. But it would make exposures blindingly short.
And while we're not on the subject, I have a question: is it even remotely possible to have two separate outputs on a timer like this? Specifically, to control two different light sources from the same unit, albeit on different channels?
Here's a simple method that will work with any timer:
Connect a DPDT switch between the green and blue LEDs and the timer.
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