I was recently fortunate enough to win an auction for 50 rolls of 120 Tri-X, a film I honestly have struggled to get good results in with my standard dev, hc110. I've loved hc110 for 35mm Tri-X but for some reason I never like what I get from it in medium format. It seems soft, mushy and the contrast is not the same as I expect even when using the same times. Perhaps it's a result of matrix metering in 35mm vs incident in 120. Either way, I have a ton of this film now and am looking for recommendations for developers. Any suggestions?
Is the film fresh?
Or as likely, a medium format lens that favours resolution over contrast.maybe, it is a mushy lens?
I was recently fortunate enough to win an auction for 50 rolls of 120 Tri-X, a film I honestly have struggled to get good results in with my standard dev, hc110. I've loved hc110 for 35mm Tri-X but for some reason I never like what I get from it in medium format. It seems soft, mushy and the contrast is not the same as I expect even when using the same times. Perhaps it's a result of matrix metering in 35mm vs incident in 120. Either way, I have a ton of this film now and am looking for recommendations for developers. Any suggestions?
I use Pyrocat HD in gylcol (& i've never in over 15 yrs had any issues w the developer. I get great results on my 2 favourite films. FP4+ & Tri-X in 35,120 & LF
I was recently fortunate enough to win an auction for 50 rolls of 120 Tri-X, a film I honestly have struggled to get good results in with my standard dev, hc110. I've loved hc110 for 35mm Tri-X but for some reason I never like what I get from it in medium format. It seems soft, mushy and the contrast is not the same as I expect even when using the same times. Perhaps it's a result of matrix metering in 35mm vs incident in 120. Either way, I have a ton of this film now and am looking for recommendations for developers. Any suggestions?
I’d start at 20-minutes, 70F, 1:1:100, 1-minute initial agitation, 10-seconds on the five minute marks. That’s been generally good for me on all 400 speed films, though I may bump it up some for HP5+.What is your development time for Tri-X 400 120 in Pyrocat HD in Glycol? I am still looking for the right time.
I’d start at 20-minutes, 70F, 1:1:100, 1-minute initial agitation, 10-seconds on the five minute marks. That’s been generally good for me on all 400 speed films, though I may bump it up some for HP5+.
Yep thats why I dont use it, except if its cheap. Good luck.I was recently fortunate enough to win an auction for 50 rolls of 120 Tri-X, a film I honestly have struggled to get good results in with my standard dev, hc110. I've loved hc110 for 35mm Tri-X but for some reason I never like what I get from it in medium format. It seems soft, mushy and the contrast is not the same as I expect even when using the same times. Perhaps it's a result of matrix metering in 35mm vs incident in 120. Either way, I have a ton of this film now and am looking for recommendations for developers. Any suggestions?
Aaaah, you are the one who outbidded me....Enjoy the 50 rolls!
To me, Tri-X = D76 1+1.5 for 16min @ 68F. I use a color head enlarger so my development time might seem a bit long...
No purpose to start wars so this question is purely on curiosity: why use D76 when XTOL is in all means based on the data? (refererring to kodak's table in post https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/favorite-dev-for-tri-x-in-120.169764/#post-2209027). There is no large price difference either and both need to be mixed from powder too.
I know that XTOL dies without indication after some months - but is that only reason? (for me that hasn't been problem, I store xtol in air-free 1 liter bottles and usually the complete 5 liter batch is used anyways in few months..)
Isn't the key issue here the question of why HC110 does a good job with Tri-X 35mm but not Tri-X120 in Grim Tuesday's case. What is he doing that gives him OK negs in 35mm but soft, mushy and lacking contrast negs in 120. I would have thought that a difference in metering or camera might give him differences in exposure and maybe contrast but soft and mushy I cannot explain.
Does the soft, mushy and lack of contrast translate into similarly defective prints? Are the prints hybrid ones - they sound as if they might be?
pentaxuser
It's too bad both of us were there, had one of us not been the other probably could have gotten it for $58. I think you were the only other person bidding who knew it was 10 boxes, not 10 rolls! You wouldn't happen to have any Delta 400 that you'd like to trade for Tri-X would you? I lost that auction by a dollar!
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