First ventures into 3D printing tools for camera repairs

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Gregory_Nolan

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About a month ago, my brother and I bought a 3D printer - a Bambu Lab P1S. We've been using it quite a lot since then, with me printing all sorts of gadgets and camera accessories like body or lens caps - stuff that someone else has designed. I had no experience of designing anything myself - until a few days ago when I had some time and watched a tutorial on how to design using Autodesk Fusion 360.

I like to work with cameras and have more or less specialised in the Nikon F2. I already have the main tools to do a full CLA on it, but I was missing a special tool for the self-timer screw. If I had to remove it (which in most cases is not necessary), I would use a spanner. But there was always a risk of scratching the screw because the tips of the spanner wrench did not fit the holes in the screw exactly. So I came up with the idea of designing a nut in the 3D software and printing it at home.


IMG_2437.jpg

Cover screw of the self timer


From the beginning it was clear that a tool made of PLA would not be strong enough to turn a tightly seated screw. For the pins I would use safety needles because they come in different diameters and are made of a very strong metal. For the F2, the holes in the screw are 1mm in diameter and 5.5mm apart. I used a 0.8mm diameter safety pin to allow for some tolerance. The pins are perfectly round, which should minimise damage to the screw.

As I had no experience of designing in 3D, I designed the nut the first way I could think of. The nut has two parts: One part goes into the handpiece (6mm hex), the other part holds the pins. This part has to be adjusted between the pins and the pin diameter depending on the camera. I also designed a nut for the Minolta XD-7.

1744398212798.png

Autodesk Fusion 360: the design for the Nikon tool


After a few prototypes, I finally got the dimensions and printer settings right and produced a first version of a working tool.

IMG_2428.jpg

First working version of a tool to remove the cover nut of the F2 self timer


The holes for the pins had to be widened with a drill. I cut the safety pins with a pair of pliers so the metal was pressed a bit. Therefore, I used a file and sandpaper to level the pins.

IMG_2430.jpg
IMG_2433.jpg



I used superglue to join the two parts together and fix the pins in place. I added a screw to the top of the nut so that the magnet on the handpiece would hold the plastic part in place.

As I said, this is the first step in this new area for me. I'm going to refine the design and maybe take a different approach to printing (maybe printing two halves?).

IMG_2436.jpg


Looking forward to your feedback and input!
 

F4U

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I've made lots of tools for repairs. They were meant or the one time use, but most held up. I designed mine in Freecad.
 

RalphLambrecht

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About a month ago, my brother and I bought a 3D printer - a Bambu Lab P1S. We've been using it quite a lot since then, with me printing all sorts of gadgets and camera accessories like body or lens caps - stuff that someone else has designed. I had no experience of designing anything myself - until a few days ago when I had some time and watched a tutorial on how to design using Autodesk Fusion 360.

I like to work with cameras and have more or less specialised in the Nikon F2. I already have the main tools to do a full CLA on it, but I was missing a special tool for the self-timer screw. If I had to remove it (which in most cases is not necessary), I would use a spanner. But there was always a risk of scratching the screw because the tips of the spanner wrench did not fit the holes in the screw exactly. So I came up with the idea of designing a nut in the 3D software and printing it at home.


View attachment 396075
Cover screw of the self timer


From the beginning it was clear that a tool made of PLA would not be strong enough to turn a tightly seated screw. For the pins I would use safety needles because they come in different diameters and are made of a very strong metal. For the F2, the holes in the screw are 1mm in diameter and 5.5mm apart. I used a 0.8mm diameter safety pin to allow for some tolerance. The pins are perfectly round, which should minimise damage to the screw.

As I had no experience of designing in 3D, I designed the nut the first way I could think of. The nut has two parts: One part goes into the handpiece (6mm hex), the other part holds the pins. This part has to be adjusted between the pins and the pin diameter depending on the camera. I also designed a nut for the Minolta XD-7.

View attachment 396076
Autodesk Fusion 360: the design for the Nikon tool


After a few prototypes, I finally got the dimensions and printer settings right and produced a first version of a working tool.

View attachment 396077
First working version of a tool to remove the cover nut of the F2 self timer


The holes for the pins had to be widened with a drill. I cut the safety pins with a pair of pliers so the metal was pressed a bit. Therefore, I used a file and sandpaper to level the pins.

View attachment 396078 View attachment 396079


I used superglue to join the two parts together and fix the pins in place. I added a screw to the top of the nut so that the magnet on the handpiece would hold the plastic part in place.

As I said, this is the first step in this new area for me. I'm going to refine the design and maybe take a different approach to printing (maybe printing two halves?).

View attachment 396080

Looking forward to your feedback and input!

perfect! You are quite the engineer! I'm impressed.Now all we need is you sharing the printing file?
 
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Gregory_Nolan

Gregory_Nolan

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perfect! You are quite the engineer! I'm impressed.Now all we need is you sharing the printing file?

Thanks for the flowers, I think I still have a long way to go ;-) I will share the print files of course, but the design is not quite where I want it to be. I still want to try different designs (like combining two halves) and publish files that really work well.
 

koraks

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Very nicely done! I also enjoy using Fusion for this kind of thing. It's so powerful!

For the drilling, you may consider using a drill press. It made a world of difference for me in terms of survival rate of the drills as well as precision. There are simple/cheap stands that you can clamp e.g. a Dremel into. Very convenient.
 
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Gregory_Nolan

Gregory_Nolan

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Very nicely done! I also enjoy using Fusion for this kind of thing. It's so powerful!

For the drilling, you may consider using a drill press. It made a world of difference for me in terms of survival rate of the drills as well as precision. There are simple/cheap stands that you can clamp e.g. a Dremel into. Very convenient.

A drill press is on my 'to buy' list. I use the Proxxon Micromot system, they have lots of accessories.
 
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Gregory_Nolan

Gregory_Nolan

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The next tool I've designed is for removing the retaining ring that sits around the frame counter of the Nikon F. I've made two versions: One made completely of PLA and the other one using savety needle pins (just like shown above). Both work great.

IMG_2476.jpg
IMG_2475.jpg


IMG_2474.jpg
 

4season

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Good work! For me, learning FreeCAD felt like quite a hurdle, and I still feel like I'm only using 15% of it's capabilities, but I love being able to create a specialized tool in less than half an hour.
 

Tel

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Very good solutions. I like your use of metal pins to buy more shear strength than the plastic pins afford. I’ve made a set of Nikon tools using (sacrificial) metal screwdriver bits and small sockets and filing away all but the “pins”. Your solution is both more elegant and likely faster.
 
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