Have you just purchased a Minolta X-700? Do a Check & Clean first!

[Andreas Thaler]

Since I'm currently working on a few Minolta X cameras and focusing on the Minolta X-700, I thought a "Check & Clean" tutorial might be useful for you

Today I was busy with this X-700.

I had no idea if it worked. Anyway it was obvious that it was dirty.

But otherwise?

So let's take a closer look.

The camera was put to good use. You can see this in the signs of wear.

Cleanliness was obviously forgotten.

The fate of many cameras

Even remnants of film could be found in the camera.

The light seals are still in good condition.


I unscrew the base plate to look at the circuit board with the electrolytic capacitor there and the visible part of the mechanics.

This electrolytic capacitor (C10) is notorious for the fact that it can fail or even damage the circuit board due to leaking electrolyte.

Some dirt and dust.

The board looks ok.

Apparently no work has been done there yet.

At least not from a bungler

The electrolytic capacitor also looks good. I can't detect any electrolyte leakage.

I check the electrical values of the electrolytic capacitor once installed in the circuit ...

... and then, after desoldering, outside the circuit.

The results are almost identical.

This is intended to show that both are possible with this measuring device (we recently had a discussion about this here in the forum).

Although the electrolytic capacitor is fine, I replace it with a new one.

Since it has probably been working in the camera for decades, it could soon - or only in a few more years - become leaky.

I don't want to risk that.

Soldering is quick.

It is important to pay attention to the polarity of the electrolytic capacitor.

The cathode, i.e. the negative connection, points towards the camera in the X-700.

I would be happy to show you how to solder the electrolytic capacitor here.

If you are interested, please let me know.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

We continue with the inspection on the upper deck.

Here I would also like to take a look at the circuit board and in particular a second capacitor, which can fail too.

I show a few stages of disassembly.

If you would like to know more about how to do this, please let me know.

From here, it makes sense to watch out for electrostatic discharges, which can damage the X-700's circuitry in particular its ICs.

To avoid this, I wear a grounding bracelet and work on a work mat that is also grounded.

The small plastic stopper on the dial of the image counter is intact.

If it breaks off due to long use, the camera no longer displays the count correctly.

The position of the electrolytic capacitors C8 and C9 is located on the underside of the circuit board under the electronic structures for exposure compensation and ASA setting.

So that I can take a look there, I have to partially dismantle the circuit board.

These two screws must be loosened first.

So that the top cover, which is still connected to the circuit board via a few cables, does not swing back and forth, I fix it with an adhesive strip.

I unsolder these five cables.

Now the board can be carefully lifted and the capacitors can be seen.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

So that the board doesn't fall back again, I build my little drawbridge:

A circuit board holder finally fixes the X-700 in a vertical position.

Now I can take my time and look at the capacitors.

Two tantalum capacitors (blue) are installed here. These can also fail, but no electrolyte can escape from them.

Even with the dentist's mirror I can't see the printed value of capacitor C9.

A look at the service manual for the X-700 from Minolta will help here.

The layout view of this part of the circuit shows the position of the capacitors and their numbering.

The electrical values are entered in the component list.

Now I can measure the values of the capacitors and compare them with the target values in the component list.

The electrical values of capacitor C9 ...

... and those of C8.


The capacity values correspond almost 100 percent to the information in the service manual.

The ESR values are also ok.

(ESR refers to the resistance of a capacitor, which can increase over time due to aging. If it is too high, the capacitor is no longer fully functional.)

The capacitors are fine, I don't need to replace them

 

[Andreas Thaler]

This part of the board is also home to one of the five ICs of the X-700:

IC5, which, among other things, is responsible for switching two magnets.

I reassemble the circuit board and also solder the cables.

If I continue to use the old solder on the soldering points, there is always an extra portion of flux so that the soldering goes smoothly.

We continue with cleaning the switches and contacts for the exposure compensation and ASA setting.

I use electronic cleaner for this.

The version of the circuit board can be seen here: 2017-07

The underside of the exposure compensation dial, which couples with the structures.

I unsolder the cables to the top cover to have free access.

There is some dirt in the mirror box area.

I take off the bayonet ring so I can clean it thoroughly.

The aperture simulator ring, which couples to the lens aperture ring, does not move smoothly.

A scratching sound can also be heard.

Since there are two contact tracks underneath that are probably dirty, I take it off.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

No wonder the aperture simulator ring didn't run smoothly.

The ring for the aperture simulator runs against a spring. Two fine contact brushes are integrated.

A fine wire has bent away here, which I cut off with side cutters.

Overview

I clean the mechanics for the contact pin of the program circuit.

The contact pin indicates that an MD lens is set to the smallest aperture (green).

This is a prerequisite for the automatic program to work properly.

Likewise the resistance track/conductor for the contacts in the aperture simulator ring.

Zippo lighter fluid for cleaning metal parts ...

... and isopropyl alcohol for cleaning plastic parts.

Some dirt came off.

After cleaning I lubricate the mechanism for the contact pin with some Ballistol universal oil.

Ballistol is also popular for maintaining weapons

The cleaning has been completed here and everything has been reassembled.

The aperture simulator ring now runs smoothly and without scratching noises.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The eyepiece also needs cleaning. A lot of dust and dirt has accumulated here over the decades.

Assembling the dirty parts that I will put in a bath with dishwashing detergent.

It is much more efficient to bathe and brush the parts as a whole than to do so when assembled.

You can't get into the joints and corners that thoroughly with cleaning swabs.

Soak in warm water with dishwashing detergent for about half an hour, then brush thoroughly with a toothbrush ...

... rinse with clean water ...

... dry with a lint-free cloth ...

... blow out water droplets from hard-to-reach places with compressed air ...

... and finally blow dry.

In order to remove the moisture in the elevator lever, I dismantle it.

I rework smaller parts with cotton swabs.

The parts are clean and dry and can now be reinstalled.

The cables in the top cover are soldered back to the board.

And after final assembly, the X-700 is complete again.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Only professional cameras have such good wear

Thank God it's not rust, but some kind of dirt that was easily removed.

And now the workplace has to be tidied up again.

I only work as a guest in our kitchen



I hope you enjoyed the tour as much as I did. It took some work, but the X-700 is checked and clean again.

All functions are fine as far as I can tell


+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.

 

[miha]

Amazing work. How many hours did it take you from start to finish?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Amazing work. How many hours did it take you from start to finish?

Thank you

I started today at 9 am and finished around 4 pm (CET in Austria).

I skipped lunch

 

[Helge]

That's an insane amount of work. Fine, if it's your own camera, but if you have to pay taxes and shipping in top, it a lot of work for a very scratched up camera.
Very interesting and useful tutorial though, and I'd say exemplary execution.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

That's an insane amount of work. Fine, if it's your own camera, but if you have to pay taxes and shipping in top, it a lot of work for a very scratched up camera.
Very interesting and useful tutorial though, and I'd say exemplary execution.

Thank you

If you are experienced and don't take photos for documentation purposes, it should go faster. I think it's a question of training.

Of course, you should master your tools to such an extent that you don't hold yourself back.

Soldering in the cameras in particular is not always easy because there is little space and a cable can quickly burn.

 

[Helge]

Thank you

If you are experienced and don't take photos for documentation purposes, it should go faster. I think it's a question of training.

Of course, you should master your tools to such an extent that you don't hold yourself back.

Soldering in the cameras in particular is not always easy because there is little space and a cable can quickly burn.

Nice choice of specialization.
My nightmare is the combination of time pressure and the bewildering amount of parts and small screws.
No cameras where ever build to be truely serviceable.
You really need to finish in one sitting, since even with good documentation you’ll forget crucial details and/or you’ll want to use the space for something else.
This and the FE2 is the greatest manual focus 135 SLRs ever made.
I say that after having sampled probably most of the major brands better or top models.
XD7 and F3 is very good but have their own set of limitations like fragility of irreparable display or no exposure lock and primitive or no TTL flash.

 

[miha]

Thank you

I started today at 9 am and finished around 4 pm (CET in Austria).

I skipped lunch

Congrats. My Leica R3 MOT is need of such service Tell me if you are willing to accept it.

Anyway, I think such contributions are the most valuable ones! Thanks again.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

XD7 and F3 is very good but have their own set of limitations like fragility of irreparable display or no exposure lock and primitive or no TTL flash.

Never give up on a Nikon F3 because of a broken LCD!

Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced

A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...

www.photrio.com

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Congrats. My Leica R3 MOT is need of such service Tell me if you are willing to accept it.

I'm just doing this for my pleasure. And I'm glad I don't have to make a living from it. That would be stressful

But why don't you try it yourself?

 

[miha]

I'm just doing this for my pleasure. And I'm glad I don't have to make a living from it. That would be stressful

But why don't you try it yourself?

I did some minor works on my Mamiya C330, Werra and Yashica MG-1 but I lack the tools and skills. And since the R3 is basically Minolta in disguise I thought you might be interested.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I did some minor works on my Mamiya C330, Werra and Yashica MG-1 but I lack the tools and skills. And since the R3 is basically Minolta in disguise I thought you might be interested.

I'm always interested, but I didn't have a Leica R on the table yet. And as long as I just ruin my own stuff, it's okay

The Minolta XE-1, the godmother of the R3, cannot be compared with a X-700; you would have to get used to it as repairer, even if you otherwise have a certain routine.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Gene Pate, founder of Learn Camera Repair, created a tutorial for a CLA on a water damaged X-700. He had to largely disassemble the camera to check and clean it.

Recommendation!

Minolta X700 CLA Tutorial

Tutorial by Gene Pate

learncamerarepair.com

 

[Flighter]

Thanks for this Andreas, a most enjoyable read. And great pictures too.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Thanks for this Andreas, a most enjoyable read. And great pictures too.

Thank you - and welcome to my kitchen-workshop!