When using glass plates in old folding cameras, the emulsion side of the plate should rest on the camera's film rails. Otherwise, the rangefinder will be inaccurate. You can perhaps improvise a plate holder that will hold the plate against the film rails, and block all extraneous light from the plate. This involves loading the plate in the darkroom, taking one shot, and returning to the darkroom. I'd rather use a 4x5 or 3.25x4.25 camera and plate holders.
Hydrogen peroxide at 3 - 4 % from the haircare section of the supermarket. At this concentration it is safe to use without PPE precautions. You can use it as an antiseptic on cuts if needed. Some people like to use this in combination with ammonia as well. Try the peroxide on its own at first.There is a slight amount of fugus on the very front element, and I want to clean it.
By the way, proper cleaning solution?
1906 Kodak 3A
The Kodak No. 3A Model B2, which I have adapted, was made between 1904 and 1906 as far as I could determine from the available literature. It was a "Pocket Folding Kodak" but pockets must have been very big back then because this one measures (in inches) about 10 x 4-3/4 x 2. The No. 3A was one...www.photrio.com
Bumping and updating the thread title to add film options.
I am to the point where I need to explore what I can do with this 3A.
- adapting 120 to the native 122? (adapters hard to find at the moment)
- single-shot direct positive paper
- cut down 4x5 (or 5x7?) film sheets and make a roll of it by taping cut sheets?
- other?
My logic also included thoughts that it was a rather expensive camera in its day, not for a complete amateur, so Kodak must have thought about a certain amount of film flatness in the design. But reading their minds after all these years is challenging.
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