How is the calibrated with the range finder? Or it's guesstimate focus?
With the front standard set back to match the setback of the film plane in the LomoGraflok, the same amount of bed movement will produce the same focus shift from infinity as would be the case with a standard back and unadjusted infinity stop settings. In other words, if you calibrate your RF with the original ground glass, and then set the front standard back for the LomoGraflok, RF operation will be transparent.
The same thing has been done on hundreds (or more?) of roll film Polaroids converted to use 4x5 film holders (and a number using salvaged Instax backs); they give accurate focus over their entire range with the original RF so long as the front standard spacer is correct.
My Crown for some reason has two sets of infinity blocks. I should be able to unscrew the spare set and set them up exactly the distance of the spacer and have a walkabout instax with full focusability and full manual. This make sense? If so it could be a massive game changer.
I didn't know this was possible. I assumed that I'd have to go in and tinker with the Kalart to match the Instax back. I think I'll have to get one of these for my Crown Graphic now.
My Crown for some reason has two sets of infinity blocks. I should be able to unscrew the spare set and set them up exactly the distance of the spacer and have a walkabout instax with full focusability and full manual. This make sense? If so it could be a massive game changer.
I’m planning on doing this also! Just have to make sure the lens is ‘square’ to the focus rails with only one contact point.
No need to use the gg to check squareness of the front standard in my opinion, I’m just careful not to clamp down the front standard crooked because of (at least my camera has) wiggle between the front standard and the focus rails.
Im planning on making a 3D printed spacer that also acts as a square to help accomplish this, but is probably just ocd on my part.
You got yourself a deal! I’ll through in a viewfinder mask tooPrint one off for me and I'll trade for a roll of sketchy hand-rolled Plus-X Aero.
You got yourself a deal! I’ll through in a viewfinder mask too
I see how I could use it also with my converted Polaroid 110.
I'm certain you can't mount it under a spring back. The 110 conversions usually have an open back, however, and I'm uncertain whether you can make it fit. It's likely to interfere with use of the RF and viewfinder if it will...
I am curios if you ever made a 3d printed spacer.
I found this online : https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/105634-lomograflok-instax-back-modified-focusing-screen-s
Does anyone have experience with this?
It seems like removing the gg for each image is way too cumbersome.
From what I can tell, this spacer allows you to keep the gg in place.
One place I got a quote from wanted $100 to print this.
Anyone with a printer care to offer a better price?
Thanks!
Yeah, so the film plain of the instax is a bit more than an inch behind the film plain of a normal 4x5. The spacer that comes with the instax moves the ground glass (gg) back to the instax film plain so you can focus with the glass.Thanks for the reply.
Then I guess I don’t understand what this spacer does and if it is really necessary. Can you explain this to me?
Thanks for the reply.
Then I guess I don’t understand what this spacer does and if it is really necessary. Can you explain this to me?
The spacer I made fits between the infinity stop and the lens board. This lets you leave the back on if you use the rangefinder and viewfinder.
I would guess that it's to provide a replacement in case the original spacer/framing aid gets lost or broken.
I can post the stl on thingiverse, but it sounds like you need a different spacing? Also, mine is pretty tailored to the crown graphic so not 100% sure it will work with your setup.
Is the .stl file for that available? I have an Anniversary Speed, and at present I've set the infinity stops back to use the RF with my LomoGraflok, but I'd rather be able to leave the stops set for the original film plane (as modified by a millimeter or so by the Graflok conversion back I installed) and be able to just set the front standard back without moving the stops. Yeah, if I had a Pacemaker, I'd just get another pair of stops, but if I had a Pacemaker, I likely wouldn't have needed to convert to Graflok anyway (instead, I'd just be cussing at the cable trigger in the body).
My setback ought to be the same as everyone's -- but the bed rail spacing and profile might be different between the Annie and Pacemaker. I wouldn't think it would take a lot of filament or machine time, though.
I could design a front spacer myself, but it's always easier to use an existing file.
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