Screws that cannot be loosened and whose screw head is damaged by attempts to unscrew it, so that nothing works anymore: every craftsman's nightmare.
When dismantling cameras and lenses, it often happens that a screw does not want to come out. Be it rust or a thread being fixed with glue - the screw has to yield, otherwise the project will stop.
We have already talked about this topic here:
www.photrio.com
As a last resort, a screw head can be milled out and the screw residue can then be removed with (special) pliers. This almost always takes some of the surrounding material with it and the screw is then just shiny crumbs.
Today I successfully used mini screw extractors, see also
www.photrio.com
Some plain bearing screws in a Minolta zoom would not come off with the slotted screwdriver.
The bits for the cordless screwdriver have the extractor on one end and a small milling head on the other.
The screw heads are drilled with this, or with a metal drill.
The extractor is then placed on the hole in the screw head and the bit rotates anti-clockwise into the screw head, thus winding the screw out of the hole.
The drill hole and the area around the screw head remain undamaged.
This screw could even continue to be used after it has been removed, as the screw slot has been retained.
If the screw is too tight, the screw extractor cannot do anything either, as it will destroy the screw head or rotate idle.
But it is a great helper for all other stubborn screws. Spare screws should always be on hand.
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
When dismantling cameras and lenses, it often happens that a screw does not want to come out. Be it rust or a thread being fixed with glue - the screw has to yield, otherwise the project will stop.
We have already talked about this topic here:
Stubborn screws: Milling out screw heads, recommendations for milling cutters
Stuck screws, secured with adhesive, that I can't loosen with solvent or heat have put one or two of my projects at risk. Because if a screw doesn't come loose, you can't go any further, e.g. dismantling a lens bayonet. To make progress, I tried using a screw extractor and a drill, but that...
www.photrio.com
As a last resort, a screw head can be milled out and the screw residue can then be removed with (special) pliers. This almost always takes some of the surrounding material with it and the screw is then just shiny crumbs.
Today I successfully used mini screw extractors, see also
Minolta MD 75-200/4.5 (III): The so far unsuccessful fight against lame aperture blades
This zoom has slow aperture blades, which I was able to make move again for a short time using different techniques. I'm still looking for a sustainable solution. Maybe someone has ideas? A long journey that has no end I bought the zoom for EUR 10 (USD 11) which is not only pretty but also...
www.photrio.com
Some plain bearing screws in a Minolta zoom would not come off with the slotted screwdriver.
The bits for the cordless screwdriver have the extractor on one end and a small milling head on the other.
The screw heads are drilled with this, or with a metal drill.
The extractor is then placed on the hole in the screw head and the bit rotates anti-clockwise into the screw head, thus winding the screw out of the hole.
The drill hole and the area around the screw head remain undamaged.
This screw could even continue to be used after it has been removed, as the screw slot has been retained.
If the screw is too tight, the screw extractor cannot do anything either, as it will destroy the screw head or rotate idle.
But it is a great helper for all other stubborn screws. Spare screws should always be on hand.
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
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