Mixing Microphen.

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I read somewhere(don't remember where)that you need to add boric acid when you mix this developer. Is that true?
 

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Probably the best idea is to follow the instructions on the packet. I'd guess the manufacturer knows best
 

pentaxpete

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As far as I remember from the Formula it already HAS Boric Acid in it as a 'PH' Buffer' .
 
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I don't have the packets yet. I ordered them from Freestyle Thursday(B&H was out of stock on Microphen).
 
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pdeeh

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But the Ilford formula has never been published has it?
Any formulas floating about are best guesses surely?
 

Gerald C Koch

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Ilford Autophen (Microphen Substitute)

A fine grain developer recommended for maximum film speed and optimized
for faster films. This developer is essentially a Phenidone™ version of ID-11
with added buffering. Unlike ID-11 it is more consistent in performance, al-
though with a slower development rate.

The EI can be increased by 50%.

Distilled water (50°C) …………………………………………… 750 ml
Sodium sulfite (anhy) ……………………………………………… 100 g
Hydroquinone ……………………………………………………………………… 5.0 g
Borax (deca) ……………………………………………………………………… 3.0 g
Boric acid …………………………………………………………………………… 3.5 g
Phenidone ……………………………………………………………………………… 0.2 g
Potassium bromide ………………………………………………………… 1.0 g
Distilled water to make ………………………………………… 1.0 l

IIRC when I used this formula the development times were greater than for Microphen. So some testing is required.
 

Gerald C Koch

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Gerald, that formula is the "numberless" Axford/Kendall Ilford replenishing formula I referred to above. I didn't know it was Autophen. Ian Grant could probably confirm this.

Actually it was Ian that corrected me as to the fact that the formula was for Ilford Autophen not Microphen. I had always wondered why the development times didn't agree. The incorrect approbation has been around for decades in various photomags like Popular Photography and even made it into the Dignan Newsletter.

It's still a good developer better than D-76. If one were bothered about the times the amount of borax could be increased.
 
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I got one of these to put on the cordless drill to mix it. :smile:

mixer.JPG
 

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Assuming you're serious, don't use that. All that is required is manual stirring and a little patience. Mixing with a drill at too high a speed will aerate the solution, which is not good. Please follow the directions with respect to both mixing and water temperature.

Think he is teasing but I don't bother to stir much merely mixing in storage bottle stopping and leaving overnight.

Cause I use cine I need to filter stock back into storage.

It is a mistake trying to get more than ten 135 out of one litre...

The only reason I use it is cause I'm so allergic.
 

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I got one of these to put on the cordless drill to mix it. :smile:

View attachment 110078

Actually, for large batches of developer, I use this.

Really, Microphen is my favorite developer for most uses. I mix it exactly per instructions and have never had trouble. It has two packets - be sure the first one is fully desolved before adding the second. I use water at 102F per instructions, then add cool water to make the one liter. I let is sit overnight in the bottle just to assure full solution. Has never failed me yet.
 

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RalphLambrecht

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Assuming you're serious, don't use that. All that is required is manual stirring and a little patience. Mixing with a drill at too high a speed will aerate the solution, which is not good. Please follow the directions with respect to both mixing and water temperature.

I was going to mix it slow-the drill will be about 150-200RPM. Will that be ok?
 

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Most of the chemicals used in photography are readily soluble in water. If you start with the recommended volume of water at the recommended temperature there should be no problem. Companies like Ilford have investigated what is necessary for their products. Just follow their directions and everything will be fine.
 
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I mixed up a liter tonight. Mixing powder developer was less of a hassle than I thought it was going to be. The quart storage bottles I have actually hold a liter, so that's good.
 

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Yes, that formula is the Axford/Kendall Ilford fine grain developer for Photofinishing and sold commercially as Autophen, it's a PQ version of ID-11/D76. There were a number of articles in the British Journal of Photography and the BJP Almanacs (by Ilford researchers) in the 1950's relating to this developer and stating that it was commercially available as Autophen.

Autophen was available in Liquid and Powder form, and like Microphen (& Brophen) the powder version contains a small amount of Sodium Metabisulphite in Part A as a preservative (the formula Pete posted elsewhere).

Ilford published ID-68 a a year or so later when they introduced an entirely new developer Microphen which sold alongside Autophen. ID-68 and its Replenisher are interchangeable with Microphen, the difference between the two are that there is a small amount of Sodium Metabisulphte in the commercial product and the buffering is balance to compensate for this.

When Ilford released Microphen they stated it was "An altogether new type of developer" the development times are longer than Autophen.

microphen2.jpg


autophen2.jpg

autophen-replenish.jpg


The development times are quite different.

dev0times.jpg


As stated in the same "Ilford Formulae and Packed Chemicals" 1960 ID-68 has the same development times as Microphen.

ID-68.jpg

Autophen is not a Replacement for Microphen, it was however a replacement for ID-11/D76 in Photofinishing labs where it's resistance to Bromide build up meant far lower replenishment rate and greater throughput/economy per litre of developer.

Ian
 

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I mixed up a liter tonight. Mixing powder developer was less of a hassle than I thought it was going to be. The quart storage bottles I have actually hold a liter, so that's good.

Yea Microphen is an excellent developer but if you can get the raw chemicals cheap a set of drug dealers scales with 0.01 gm resolution allows any of the other formula or even ID68...
 
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