I would like to bring together a selection of my previous contributions here in the hope that they will help readers with their work or inspire them to get involved in repairs.
It is always worth trying to repair something, because if you do nothing, a camera or lens will definitely remain broken
In any case, you learn something new from every project, no matter how it turns out.
Good luck with your work!
This list is constantly being expanded.
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All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
Canon
SLRs
Lenses
Miscellaneous
Leica
Minolta
SLRs/Rangefinder
Lenses
Accessoires
Nikon
SLRs
Lenses
Accessoires
Olympus
Tamron
Tokina
Soligor
Vivitar
Miscellaneous
It is always worth trying to repair something, because if you do nothing, a camera or lens will definitely remain broken
In any case, you learn something new from every project, no matter how it turns out.
Good luck with your work!
This list is constantly being expanded.
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
Canon
SLRs
Buying a Canon T90: What should you pay attention to?
Herald of the EOS generation: the mighty Canon T90. The Canon T90 from 1986 is described as the most advanced SLR that is focused purely manually. It is largely fully equipped and part of the Canon FD system with a large number of excellent lenses. Due to the many functions - including a...
Canon T90 and T70: Rescuing victims of leaked battery electrolyte
From a collection of cameras, I chose these two T90s and one T70. They all have one thing in common: their battery compartments cannot be opened because the batteries have leaked. The battery acid has cemented the battery holders and the battery compartment cover of the T70. When I tried...
Canon T90: Cleaning the mirror magnet
I have a T90 here whose mirror magnet no longer works. The usual symptom of a quiet clicking sound and a flashing arrow in the display occurs. The recommended cure of removing the front cover and activating the - easily accessible - magnet with a magnetized screwdriver tip works with patience...
Canon T90: Advanced cleaning of stuck shutter blades
Sticky shutter at EOS Nano Burger gives in „Manage Your EOS Camera’s Sticky Shutter“ https://www.instructables.com/Manage-Your-EOS-Cameras-Sticky-Shutter/ a guide on how to clean stuck shutter blades in a Canon EOS. The reason for the sticking is a small damper under the vertically running...
Canon T90: Fixing dropouts on the control wheel
A more annoying than serious problem with the Canon T90 is the control wheel on the handle, which turns in notches that sometimes no longer make contact. You then have to turn the wheel one or two positions further in order to be able to set a shutter speed or an aperture value, for example. I...
Canon T90: Defective display replaced
Checking my little T90 family, I saw that one family member was having problems with her display on the top of the case. When the camera was switched on, but also every time any button was pushed or the selector wheel was turned the display showed signs and symbols that did not match the...
Canon T90 shows the error messages HELP and EEE: Tracking down the last major problem
One of the most common problems with the T90 is still unsolved: the shutter blocking, accompanied by the messages „HELP“ in the viewfinder and „EEE“ on the display. Until now, I assumed that the cause of this problem was dirty magnets for controlling the shutter. The T90 has two of these...
Canon T90: recommendations and notes
Based on my previous (repair) experiences with the Canon T90 with regard to preservation/problems/repair options, I would like to give a summary of the following recommendations/hints: Sticky shutter - gummed-up shutter blades: Can be permanently repaired, damper in the shutter area that has...
Canon T90: How we get through time
After extensive study of hybrid magnets, sticky shutters, EEE and HELP, eleven T90s, all of which are fit for work, go into their maintenance program. Once a month there is a battery pack and a test film in turn to check film transport, automatic rewind and displays. In HIGH mode, a film...
Canon T90: Replacing the mirror magnet
The mirror of one of my T90s didn't want to move. The symptom is well known: When you press the shutter button, an arrow flashes in the display and you hear a quiet ticking sound. Otherwise the camera remains still. I opened the camera and tapped the mirror magnet with a magnetized...
Canon T90: Power supply restored
Today was check of my T90 family. Some with no findings, some with the shutter blades stuck together, one with a crazy display and this one that shows nothing on the display after switching it on. That struck me as odd, since it had worked the last time. So something must have changed in...
Canon T90: Shutter removal procedure
One problem for which I at least do not know of a solution is inactive shutter magnets in the Canon T90, which has two of them. The problem manifests itself in the camera releasing the mirror but the shutter remains closed. "EEE" is displayed on the camera display and "HELP" in the viewfinder...
Lenses
Canon nFD 50 mm/1.8: Cleaning the lenses
For this I follow Kenneth (mikeno62) on YouTube, who explains all the steps in an hour-long video: I really like Kenneth's videos. Not only is his productivity impressive - new videos on lens service are published regularly - but also the calmness with which he goes about his work In two...
Canon nFD 28/2: Outsmarting and cleaning the aperture blades
For years, oil has been shining at me when I look at the aperture blades of my fast wide-angle lens. And this has saddened me for years. This should be over now 👍 One of my favorite lenses and quite heavy. The rear optical unit can be easily unscrewed and is already removed here...
Miscellaneous
Canon New FD: from bayonet ring to aperture key
A special feature of Canon New FD lenses is that their aperture remains fixed at a value as long as they are not attached to a camera. The aperture blades cannot then be moved and checking the optics and aperture blades with an LED lamp is only possible to a limited extent. “Aperture key”...
Leica
Leica R3 ELECTRONIC: Recommendations and notes
The Leica R3 ELECTRONIC was the first Leitz camera from the R series and was introduced in 1976. It was developed and manufactured in cooperation with Minolta. Technically, it is closely related to the Minolta XE. One variant is the Leica R3 MOT ELECTRONIC, which is essentially identical in...
Leica R3 MOT ELECTRONIC: Jumping metering needle repaired; front panel fixed with LEICA lettering
Today I unpacked the Leica R3 MOT ELECTRONIC that @miha sent me some time ago for an attempt to repair. After practicing on a well-worn R3 MOT for the last few days, I felt sufficiently prepared to get to work. See the story here describing all the technical details and guesses where the...
Leica R3 ELECTRONIC: Stiff mirror mechanism repaired
I have a nice R3 here, in which the electronics are obviously still working properly (lucky!), but the mechanism in the mirror box seems to be resinified. The mirror only works as it should when I place the camera on the prism. Otherwise it will stop halfway I know from a training R3 that...
Leica R3: Mission Aperture Priority
The Minolta XE-1 (XE, XE-7) is discredited because its electronics become unreliable over the decades. Known symptoms are a jumping metering needle in the viewfinder and incorrect shutter speeds in aperture priority mode. Solid, fascinating technology, beautiful, but with problems: Minolta's...
Leica R3 MOT ELECTRONIC: Heading into the unknown
Our colleague @miha asked me if I would like to look at his R3 MOT. There is a problem with a jumping needle in the viewfinder. Maybe also the aperture priority mode is concerned. I was hesitant about whether I wanted to do this. Because I didn't have a Leica R on the table yet. And although...
Minolta
SLRs/Rangefinder
Minolta X-700/500/300 (700/570/370): Recommendations and notes
Timeless, robust and reliable classics: the three Minolta X SLRs from the 80s Based on my previous (repair) experiences with the Minolta X-700/500/300 (X-700/570/370) cameras with regard to preservation/problems/repair options, I would like to give a summary of the following...
Minolta XG-M: Replacing the electrolytic capacitors
For my planning: Are you interested in how to replace the four electrolytic capacitors on a Minolta XG-M? In my opinion, many specimens are likely to be affected by leaking electrolytic capacitors, including damage to the surrounding conductor paths caused by electrolyte. I have an older...
Minolta X-700 tutorial: Winding lever issue - replacement of Winding base plate B
With intensively used Minolta X-700 it can happen that the winding lever no longer can be locked in the unfolded position. It always folds back into its original position. The winding lever keeps folding back. Not a serious problem, but an annoying one, especially when you want to cock the...
Minolta X-700 mini tutorial: Removing and installing the focusing screen
As part of the renovation of a Minolta X-700, I removed and reinstalled the focus screen for cleaning. I made a little tutorial out of it. It might also help with other cameras: Post in thread 'Minolta X-700: A renovation project'...
Have you just purchased a Minolta X-700? Do a Check & Clean first!
Since I'm currently working on a few Minolta X cameras and focusing on the Minolta X-700, I thought a "Check & Clean" tutorial might be useful for you 🙂 Today I was busy with this X-700. I had no idea if it worked. Anyway it was obvious that it was dirty. But otherwise? So let's take a...
Electrolytic capacitor replacement on a Minolta X-300s
Of the 13 Minolta X cameras that are waiting to be checked here, see https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/interested-in-minolta-x-camera-repair-reports.202857/#post-2739628 I was able to get candidate 1/13, a Minolta X-300s back to work 🙂 Issues: - Camera cannot be wound up. - LEDs in the...
Minolta X-300 put back into service
An X-300 with some signs of wear and a dent on the side of the top cover, a bit dirty - a basement find, as the previous owner told me. The shutter is cocked, the LEDs in the viewfinder remain dark when the trigger is tapped, pressing the trigger does not release the shutter. Ok, let's see...
Minolta X-700 electronics: A closer look
I'd like to take a closer look at the X-700's electronics in the coming days. On the one hand, I would like to understand how the circuit basically works, and on the other hand, I am interested in details that can be seen on the flexible circuit board. It's always fascinating to me what...
Minolta X-700: LED and trigger problem, capacitor and IC locations
Another broken X-700: LEDs in the viewfinder light up when you press the shutter button Shutter does not fire when the shutter button is pressed, LEDs go out LEDs can then be „tapped“ again OFF/ON main switch is not required for this In post „Minolta X-700: Electronics fault > spare parts...
Minolta X-700: Removing the mirror box and shutter
Today I would like to take a closer look at the mirror box and shutter of the X-700. To do this, the camera must be partially dismantled. It's a bit of work, but if you are familiar with a screwdriver and soldering iron, it can be done without any problems. Tutorial bei Gene Pate, Learn...
Minolta X-700: A renovation project
As announced, the first project in the new year will be the renovation of an X-700 with obvious moisture damage. Today the cheaply purchased and well used X-700 arrived and I did an initial inspection. The goal is not to get the camera back to full function at all costs, but to see what damage...
Minolta XG-M: Dissection
I took a closer look at the inner workings of an abandoned XG-M for parts. So far good, every screw (almost only cross-Head screws) could be loosened with my JIS screwdrivers without cursing 👍 In one case - it was one of the longer screws for attaching the camera strap eyelet to the housing -...
Minolta XM with automatic viewfinder AE-S: electronic contact problems resolved
My Minolta XM recently got an AE-S automatic viewfinder - completely by chance. The viewfinder was offered to me when I bought a Canon T90. Since this viewfinder is very rare, of course I couldn't say no. In addition, the piece was in mint condition 😍 The AE-S has a silicon measuring cell...
Minolta XG-M: Shutter problem resolved but be careful
I checked the functionality of my XG-M to see whether replacing the four electrolytic capacitors was successful in the long term, see https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/minolta-xg-m-replacing-the-electrolytic-capacitors.203831/ After a few releases, the mirror remained up and the LED...
Minolta (Maxxum, Alpha) 9000 AF: Removal of the mirrorbox/assembly, investigating the aperture issue, replacing the sticky damper in the shutter unit
An SLR from 1985 that is not only beautiful but also technically innovative, but which you don't read much about: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minolta_Maxxum_9000 Inspired by @Paul Howell in...
Minolta XG-M: Adjusting the shutter
At the end of last year I tried to solve a shutter problem on my Minolta XG-M. It got stuck when winding and the shutter blocked: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/minolta-xg-m-shutter-problem-resolved-but-be-careful.203843/ I was able to solve the problem, but I also worked on the two...
Minolta Hi-Matic GF: Corrosion fixed in the battery compartment, impressions from inside the camera
I already had this small Hi-Matic on the table last year. The previous owner had probably forgotten the two AA batteries in the battery compartment, which had leaked. The two batteries were so swollen that I could only pull them out of the compartment with force using combination pliers and a...
Lenses
Minolta MD 35-135/3.5-4.5: Rear lens and aperture register cleaned
This Minolta zoom is a recurring patient. Its rear lens had already become cloudy and the aperture transmission often got stuck when the tube was pulled out. Here is my report on the service from December 2023 describing how I cleaned the lens...
Minolta MD 75-200/4.5 (III): The so far unsuccessful fight against lame aperture blades
This zoom has slow aperture blades, which I was able to make move again for a short time using different techniques. I'm still looking for a sustainable solution. Maybe someone has ideas? A long journey that has no end I bought the zoom for EUR 10 (USD 11) which is not only pretty but also...
Minolta MC W. Rokkor-HG 35/2.8: Removing and cleaning the aperture blades
Since I couldn't completely remove oil from the aperture blades of my MC 35/2.8 when installed, I tackled it thoroughly. The aperture register with the aperture blades is removed and cleaned of oil using Zippo lighter fluid. The candidate Removing the optical components and removing the...
Minolta MC W. Rokkor-HG 35/2.8: Cleaning the aperture blades
This article refers to https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/minolta-mc-w-rokkor-hg-35-2-8-removing-and-cleaning-the-aperture-blades.203610/ which also deals with cleaning the aperture blades, but I removed there the blades so that I could thoroughly clean the aperture register. Here I show...
Minolta MD Tele Rokkor 135/2.8 (II): Restored from total loss
A 135 from the collection of defective lenses that I brought into the house some time ago. It had been through a lot or a lot had been done to it. The aperture blades are no longer in place. The rear lens is heavily dirty. A dent on the filter thread was obviously roughly bent...
Minolta MD 35-135/3.5-4.5 (III): Rear lens cleaned. How I got an excellent magnifying glass
This new addition was presented to me in almost new condition, but with a cloudy rear lens, when I examined it: The lens, along with another, is housed in a unit that is screwed into place. Using a spanner wrench that I inserted into the two grooves on the top ring of the unit, I was able...
Minolta MD Tele Rokkor 135/3.5 (II): Fungus removal and cleaning
The next project to be brought to the table is this MD 135/3.5, which is infested with fungus and is otherwise in mint condition. It remains to be seen whether there are any permanent chemical burns on the optics. Get rid of the fungus! ⚔️ In the third photo, the white spots on the...
Minolta MD 200/4 Tele Rokkor: Rubber coating on the focus ring adjusted, optics cleaned
This MD 200/4 comes from a collection of defective lenses. The Rubber coating on the focus ring was overstretched and no longer closed flush with its lead. Presumably the effect of heavy use, as signs of wear can also be seen on the outside of the tube. Unfortunately I neglected to...
Minolta MC Tele Rokkor 300/4.5: Slow aperture fixed
Heavy quality, still in a good design, this tele has been sitting unused in the closet for a long time: The aperture blades move slowly when the aperture ring is turned; when the open aperture lever is pushed, the aperture remains closed: When you look at it from the front, you can see...
Minolta MD 35-70/3.5: Blocking fixed, fungus removed, ring replaced
An MD 35-70/3.5 was sitting on my table looking pretty unsightly and sick. Actually I just wanted to look through lens repair candidats and leave the screwdriver in the box. But it was full of dirt, the zoom and aperture rings were difficult or impossible to move, a screw was missing from the...
Minolta MD 50/1.7 (III): Lens cleaning
The - probably - first lens that came into my possession, along with a Minolta X-700. That was 1985. In the meantime some dust has accumulated on the inner lenses. This is supposed to disappear 👍 As always, I try to find disassembly information before opening a lens. This is intended to...
Minolta MD Tele Rokkor 135/2.8 (II): Make one out of two
Recently I dedicated myself to the second Minolta MD Tele Rokkor 135/2.8 (II) from my collection of defective lenses. The rear lens surfaces of this example were also massively dirty. Unfortunately, in this case I was unable to achieve satisfactory cleaning. The optical assembly retained a...
Minolta MD Tele Rokkor 200/4 (II): Lenses cleaned, stiffness fixed
Recently I dedicated myself to this beautiful Minolta MD Tele Rokkor 200(4 (II) from a collection of defective lenses that I had purchased. There was bad contamination in the rear optical assembly and the focus ring could only be turned the last bit to infinity with gentle force. I started...
Accessoires
Minolta Auto Winder G: Service and repair
My next main project will be service and repair for the Minolta Autowinder D and G as well as the Minolta Motor Drive MD-1. The topic follows on from my previous work and articles on Minolta X here. The D Version is for Minolta XD, the G version for Minolta X/XG and the MD-1 for Minolta...
Minolta lens cap for the front lens: fix for broken spring
Original lens caps for Minolta MD, whether for the front or rear lens, are relatively rare and therefore expensive. Inferior replacements are no joy. It is therefore worth repairing a damaged lid. While the back covers are made from one piece and are therefore robust, there is a weak point in...
Minolta MD-1 motor drive: Release problems fixed
A Minolta MD-1 motor drive for the Minolta X series, which has misfires on the second release switch laterally and which I treated for the same reason last year. In series operation on an X-500, it stops after a few shots and the red control LED on the back lights up. I suspect contact...
Dissection Minolta NP-90M battery pack for Minolta (Maxxum) 9000; MD-90, BP-90M
The Minolta (Maxxum) 9000 comes with the Motor Drive MD-90 as an accessory, which can optionally be operated with the rechargeable NP-90M battery pack. This is a high-quality part that is electronically connected to the motor drive and provides a portrait format shutter release. The NP-90M...
Nikon
SLRs
Nikon F4: Recommendations and notes
The Nikon F4 from 1988 is arguably Nikon's most capable SLR for manual and AF lenses. Both types can be used without restrictions. Probably the most valuable F-SLR from Nikon, the F4, which is still an ingenious camera for analogue 35mm photography today. For manual lenses, the AF focusing...
Tutorial Nikon F3(AF): Replacing the LCD
On the Nikon F3 and its versions, the LCD that is reflected in the viewfinder can fail partially or completely. Corrosion of the LCD connections could be a cause, or the LCD sandwich no longer seals tightly; black spots can also appear that make the digits unreadable. The only solution here is...
Nikon F3/T: LCD replaced
A project that has occupied me for years without being able to tackle it - for lack of a replacement display and know-how. Now it's implemented 😀 With my most beautiful F3/T (never used before), I had to watch the LCD display in the viewfinder slowly but steadily disappear. At first, only...
Nikon F4: Upper LCD replaced
Today I opened some packages of cameras that I received last year. There was also a Nikon F4S that I hadn't even thought about. Clearly used extensively, signs of use, but with a flawless viewfinder LCD at the top and a LCD at the bottom with only a small dark spot. Unfortunately, the fact...
Nikon DP-20 viewfinder (for Nikon F4): LCD examined, case disassembled and reassembled
After replacing the top LCD in the viewfinder of a Nikon F4, I wanted to know what the procedure is for the bottom LCD. To do this, I dismantled a functional DP-20, the standard viewfinder for the F4, whose display is badly bleeding. It has black and green spots that partially cover the...
Nikon F4: Mission Aperture Lever - two ways to fix the aperture problem
{Moderator note 12 Jan 25: five threads on the F4/F4S aperture lever repair have been merged into the present thread. You may encounter one or two dead links to 'other' threads. The posts they pointed to, are now all part of this thread, which mostly still follows the journey in a logical and...
Nikon F4: Mission Aperture Lever - two ways to fix the aperture problem
{Moderator note 12 Jan 25: five threads on the F4/F4S aperture lever repair have been merged into the present thread. You may encounter one or two dead links to 'other' threads. The posts they pointed to, are now all part of this thread, which mostly still follows the journey in a logical and...
Nikon F4: Mission Aperture Lever - two ways to fix the aperture problem
{Moderator note 12 Jan 25: five threads on the F4/F4S aperture lever repair have been merged into the present thread. You may encounter one or two dead links to 'other' threads. The posts they pointed to, are now all part of this thread, which mostly still follows the journey in a logical and...
Nikon F-301: Shutter replacement
I won't be able to do anything more for this Nikon F-301, but a look inside will be interesting. Coming soon here 😎
Nikon F3 Press: Exposure compensation wheel replacement and cleaning
An intensively used F3 Press, as the exterior suggests, sits on my table: There are no dents, the interior is clean, the titanium foil shutter cloth is without damage. Dust and dirt have accumulated over time. Not dramatic with the F3P, as it is a special version for reportage use...
Nikon F3 and special models: Care, service and repair
Here in Vienna, some F3 and F3 special models have been waiting for care, service and repair for some time. The respective conditions vary: Nikon F3AF: (in the picture top left) Obviously unused, all functions OK, the mirror stop damper and the light seals are sticky and falling apart. Nikon...
Nikon F3P (Press): Stuck mirror
A well-used Nikon F3P sometimes keeps the mirror up after the shutter is released. I suspect that it is due to resinification/a lack of lubrication. This time I will not attempt a shortcut, but a repair. To do this I will have to remove the mirror box, which is connected to the front part of...
Nikon F3: The most valuable component - and two decisions
You don't give up on a Nikon F3 lightly. If it has a fault, you look for it - or a workshop that can fix it. However, there are limits here. You can't reasonably bring a defective, partially disassembled F3 back to life. The effort involved would be too high, not to mention the missing...
Lenses
Micro-NIKKOR 55/2.8 Ai-S: Aperture blades cleaned the quick way
The Nikkor Micro 55/2.8 tends to get oil contaminated on its aperture blades. The tutorials I found on the web show removing the aperture register, disassembling it and cleaning the aperture blades individually. Then everything is put back together. This takes a certain amount of effort, and...
Nikkor AF 24-120/3.5-5.6 D: Slow autofocus at focal length 24 mm (Nikon F4S)
Today my reporter zoom surprised me by focusing slowly and jerkily on the Nikon F4S at a focal length of 24 mm in autofocus mode. If I turn the focal length ring slightly towards a longer focal length, focusing works again at all distances even at 24 mm. If the metering system switches off...
Nikon Series E 50/1.8: Disassembly, recovering of a body and cleaning
Today I went through some new arrivals, all of which should be free of issues. The two Tamrons Adaptall-2, an 80-210/3.8~4 and a 200/3.5 are mint, the Minolta MD 28/2.8 (II) as well, the Braun VarioZoom 340M SCA had some coating on the battery contacts and the Nikon Series E 50/1.8 turned out...
Nikkor AF 20/2.8 D: Stuck aperture blades, lens clouding
I could purchase this lens cheaply. The aperture blades are likely oily and there is some clouding around the rear lenses. I looked at what I can do for the nice 20 👍 Externally in mint condition. The clouding in the rear optical component under focused LED light. ... and under...
Nikkor 50/1.8 Ai: Service
Convinced that helicoids do not always have to be separated for cleaning and re-greasing, I got to work. A Nikkor 50/1.8 Ai turned quite dry when focusing. Some dust had also accumulated on the inner lenses over the years. I wanted to remedy all of this. Glow of dust in the LED light...
Accessoires
Nikon MD-12 Motor Drive renovated
A friend had asked me to look at his Nikon MD-12 Motor Drive. The Motor Drive for the Nikon FE(2) and FM(2) hasn't been available for a long time. A contact in the battery compartment was corroded but was poorly cleaned. I didn't say yes right away because I usually only work on my own stuff...
Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive: Issues with rotary switch and rewind resolved, cleaning
The MD-4 on my table has been through a lot. It accompanied the F3 Press on which I replaced the exposure compensation wheel. What's even more pleasing is that it works on the F3 Press and only has minor problems: The rotary switch around the trigger for setting the motor operating mode (L...
Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive: Operating mode selector fixed
This post follows up: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/nikon-md-4-motor-drive-issues-with-rotary-switch-and-rewind-resolved-cleaning.203356/ When I checked the motor drive, I saw that the attached Nikon F3P fired continuously not only in C(ontinous) but also in S(ingle) mode. That...
Nikon MD-4 Motor Drive: A dissection
I wanted to know exactly and dismantled my practice MD-4. Actually, at first I was only interested in how I could remove the battery contact plate in the battery compartment. Another MD-4 has traces of corrosion at this point that I cannot satisfactorily remove from the outside. And then I...
Nikon MN-2 Battery Unit: Dirty job
An MD-4 motor drive with Ni-Cd battery pack MN-2 came to me. As defective - the way I like it, because there is something to see and to do 👍 The battery pack provides 16.8 volts for the motor. Pretty strong. Coincidentally, the associated service manual is available 😉 Here the battery...
Nikon MB-23 (for Nikon F4): Adhesive removed and rubber cover re-glued
A few years ago I bought an MB-23 battery grip for the Nikon F4, which with the grip becomes the F4E. As good as new, never used, in original packaging. An opportunity. The rubber cover of the base plate is glued on, some of the glue that was visible on the side didn't bother me. Until I...
Collection of spare parts for Nikon F3 and F3/T including a F3 Pin Registration (not for sale)
I managed this year - more or less by chance - to get a collection of spare parts for the F3 and F3/T including some F3 bodies, one of which is very rare. The spare parts are originally packaged, unused from workshop storage, including two complete electronic boards in the box. A remarkable...
Nikon MK-1 Firing rate converter: A look inside and repair of the trigger (preannouncement)
Two flagships and rivals of the 1980s: Canon New F-1 with Motor Drive FN and Nikon F3 with MD-4 and MK-1, which is mounted below the motor drive. The Nikon F3 and its exclusive motor drive MD-4 are a perfectly matched pair. The MD-4 not only cocks the shutter and transports the film, but...
Olympus
Olympus Zuiko 65-200/4 Auto-Zoom: Strong lens clouding removed, infinity adjustment
For years I lived under the belief that nothing and no one could help my Zuiko Zoom. One of the rear lenses was so cloudy that only a milky disc could be seen in the LED light. It couldn't be used for photographic tasks. Why did I believe that? Because an Olympus expert told me so. And of...
Olympus Zuiko Auto-S 50/1.8: Front lens group cannot be separated
A 50/1.8 Zuiko, heavily molded, was quickly disassembled: The rear lens group consists of two lenses lying one on top of the other that are easy to clean: The unpleasant surprise comes from the front. The front lens group forms an optical unit - literally: The fungus sits between...
Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-Fisheye 16/3.5: Lens damage professionally repaired
A rare fisheye in condition A, unfortunately with a damaged lens inside, namely the second element from the back. Images shot with the lens were massively softened on the OM-4 Ti: The damage was not on the lens surface, but underneath/in between. I suspected a problem with the lens...
Tamron
Tamron 35-70/3.5 17A Adaptall-2: Rescue mission failed
The 35-70 came to me with fungus on the lenses and a stiff zoom ring. Externally well used, some grains of sand, not cleaned for a long time. I got to work. The optical elements were removed and cleaned, except for the front lens unit, which I didn't have to fully dismantle because the...
Tamron SP 28-135/4~4.5: Aperture control repaired but a part remains
I noticed it on my first trip with the zoom: the smallest aperture of 32 was not formed on my Nikon F3/T. It didn't close or open completely, but the next smaller 22 did without any problems. I debated for a long time whether I should try to fix this. Because I don't take photos with the...
Tamron Adaptall-2 adapter for Minolta MD: Aperture lever released
The aperture lever on the adapter for Minolta MD is stuck. So I open the beautiful and valuable piece of precision engineering. This retaining ring had become loose. After tightening, the aperture lever works again. +++ All information provided without guarantee and use at your own...
Tamron SP 60-300/3.8~4.5 Adaptall-2: Cloudiness and separation, replacement of lenses
An SP 60-300 with a heavily clouded lens and separation is on my table. Beautiful, mechanically ok, but with an optical handicap ... ... which occurs in a place that is difficult to reach ... ... although I'm wondering whether the clouding is between the cemented lenses ... …...
Tamron 135/2.5 Adaptall-2: Aperture function restored
I actually didn't want this nice telephoto as a repair project, but rather as a problem-free access to my Tamron collection. But things turned out differently and I realized once again that every lens is designed differently. With this telephoto, which was highly praised for its imaging...
Tokina
Tokina RMC 35-105/3.5~4.3 (FD): Service
It has to end at some point, says my friend, the Photo Bear. And so we would like to use this well-used Tokina to show you what we have learned in the last few months when it comes to lens repair and service. Then we want to take care of new photo equipment projects, which again involve doing...
Tokina RMC 35-105/3.5~4.3: Slow aperture, simply fixed. Maybe an introduction to DIY?
Fixing a problem with a camera device doesn't always have to be a one-day project. And you certainly don't have to hire a workshop that does a good job, saves your own time, but of course also charges for it. Here I have a Tokina 35-105 on my table: The overall condition is excellent...
Tokina RMC 35-70/3.5: The final project; general notes for servicing lenses
To complete my self-training in lens service this year, I serviced this little zoom from Tokina with mount for Nikkor Ai. All topics discussed so far have become current: disassembly/assembly cleaning the optics external care cleaning and re-greasing of the helicoids adjustment to infinity...
Tokina RMC 90-230/4.5 (OM): Minor service
I received a zoom lens for a whole EUR 10,- (~ USD 11,-) 🙂 I found it on willhaben.at, the largest online platform for used items in Austria. It was offered there with a few dim pictures: Lens is untested and therefore declared defective. No guarantee or returns. „Another repair project“ I...
Tokina RMC 25-50/4: Zoom blockage fixed, plain bearings replaced, helicoids greased
This Tokina Zoom with a connection for Minolta MD came to me for just EUR 10,-. Externally in beautiful condition, but with a blocked zoom ring and severe lens clouding. I wanted to see what I could achieve. Decorative ring off After partial dismantling I saw the cause of the blockage...
Soligor
Soligor C/D 28-80 mm f3.8-4.8 (OM): Overhaul
A Soligor zoom came to me with an Olympus OM mount in clearly used - but not abused - condition: Here the rubber coating of the focus ring has been removed in order to explore the screw connection. The bayonet screws don't get stuck and can be loosened - a good start. The zoom is dirty...
Vivitar
Vivitar 24/2.8 Auto Wide-Angle (MD): Aperture blades and bayonet ring deoiled
From the collection of defective lenses that I purchased some time ago, the Vivitar 24/2.8 Auto Wide-Angle is a candidate for improvement. The beautiful and heavy all-metal lens could no longer close its aperture and the aperture blades remained in the barrel. In addition, the aperture lever...
Vivitar Series 1 VMC 24-48/3.8 Auto Zoom: Aperture issue fixed, quick aperture blades cleaning
Sometimes it's quick and easy. This beautiful, heavy and absolutely high-quality zoom from the USA with an MD connection is also a joy for the eye: The aperture lever did not release the closed aperture and the aperture blades were a bit oily. This could be fixed at the desk in less than...
Miscellaneous
Photo equipment: Basics for getting started with DIY repairs
As others I enjoy to report on my repair efforts here, but maybe someone would like to get into the topic? The desire is there, but there is still a lack of information on how best to start, what tools are needed and how much it might cost? That can be easily clarified. But it is even more...
Writing repair reports: A simple, fun thing!
What are you doing right now? Just tell it to a friend! Writing texts is not for everyone. If it has to be done in public in front of an audience, many people put down their pencils. Worrying that the text won't be good enough and that you won't be well received can be a major obstacle to...
Stubborn screws: Milling out screw heads, recommendations for milling cutters
Stuck screws, secured with adhesive, that I can't loosen with solvent or heat have put one or two of my projects at risk. Because if a screw doesn't come loose, you can't go any further, e.g. dismantling a lens bayonet. To make progress, I tried using a screw extractor and a drill, but that...
Troubleshooting the camera electronic: Simple measurements with the oscilloscope
Troubleshooting instructions in camera repair manuals make it possible to find and fix problems without detailed knowledge of a circuit or mechanism. To do this, you work through decision diagrams with yes and no and carry out the instructions, e.g. in the form of voltage measurements or...
Documentation of repairs: Support your memory
If you sit and try to repair a camera or a lens almost every day, it can quickly happen that you forget details or assign them incorrectly in your memory. At the end of the week, you will definitely only know a small part of what you spent your days doing at the table. Fatigue also contributes...
Repair work: Sugru, the multi-purpose mouldable glue
For small repairs on cameras, I like to work with Sugru, a mouldable adhesive that can be kneaded and shaped. After hardening, it replaces plastic. https://sugru.com/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugru Here are two projects where I used Sugru. Alignment of a battery contact on a Canon...
Demonstration of an electrolytic capacitor charge (excursus for those interested in electronics ;-)
The flash capacitor removed and discharged from a Minolta Auto 132X fascinates me: I'm thinking about what I can do with it that's safe. I have access to my laboratory power supply with a maximum output voltage of 20 VDC (= volts direct current) for charging. This should be a safe voltage...
Battery acid and electrolyte damage in photographic devices
I have collected some photo equipment that needs repairing in order to develop/train my repair skills. So far, most of the problems have been where leaked battery acid and leaked electrolyte from electrolytic capacitors contaminated contacts, solder joints, wires and conductor tracks on circuit...
Screw-on filters with retaining rings: Complete cleaning
As a by-catch to lenses, screw-on filters also come into the house from time to time, which the previous owner used as an extra to protect the front lens. You quickly remove them (as long as they aren't stuck) and put them aside or even throw them in the trash. Especially when, after decades of...
Wish and truth: Camera battery under load
While looking for a solution to an error on an X-500, I came across a note about battery voltage in the associated Minolta service manual. A battery whose voltage is measured without further connection to a load (open-circuit voltage) may still appear to be ok, even though when inserted into...
Reveni Labs Camera Tester: New perspectives for professional and private camera repairers
Professional test devices for analog cameras are usually only available from old stock. Their heyday is over with the switch to digital photography, their technology is clearly no longer state-of-the-art, but they are still used in repair shops. The devices were large and heavy and were...
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