The transition from skin color to white makeup on the face seems blotchy.
the superb blacks
much better in the second
Very nice. Your technique is fine. Remember that it is a hand coated technique and each print is a one of a kind. As far as humidifying what i do is to brush the paper with distilled water and wait until it is practically dry to the touch before coating. I also get supplies from Bostick and Sullivan but use Arches Platine paper but that should not really matter. I’ve been using that paper for a long time so I’m used to it. If that happens on other prints check your negatives since you are making them on Pictorico you can tweak it with a new negative.
Bostick and Sullivan have always been good with assistance and information just give them a call
My experience with inkjet negatives is that you always end up with a degree of coarseness in tonal transitions. It's never quite as smooth as an in-camera silver gelatin negative. Prints on absorbent paper (like Pt/Pd) tend to smudge/bleed a little, making the problem a little less apparent. On the other hand, as @jeffreyg says, these prints are hand-made and small variances and imperfections are pretty much part and parcel of the workflow. Add to this the sensitivity of the chemistry to minor variances in the paper base itself, often resulting in a not entirely linear transfer of the negative image to the final print. It'll be hard to the point of impossible to get the kind of delicate nuances of the original digital images to a Pt/Pd print, especially when using inkjet negatives.
Having said all that, looking at the scan you posted, you could improve matters a bit by working on the digital negatives; you can experiment with different printer settings (e.g. which ink channels are used and densities per channel) and in particular linearization.
Are you using 20% Na2? How many drops? I ask because Na2 really kicks up the contrast and a 20% solution is quite powerful. When I use Na2 (not that often), I use a 5% solution and sometimes dilute it in half to 2.5%. Also, regarding the substrate you may want to give Fixxon a try. Personally, I like it better than Pictorico.
I have never done Pt Pd printing and so probably limited validation to comment. However, I did view a Linda McCartney exhibition that was all Platinum prints and printed by professionals in this process. What I did notice is the superb blacks platinum gives. This seems to be lacking in your first print, but much better in the second. Hope this helps?
Are you using 20% Na2? How many drops? I ask because Na2 really kicks up the contrast and a 20% solution is quite powerful. When I use Na2 (not that often), I use a 5% solution and sometimes dilute it in half to 2.5%. Also, regarding the substrate you may want to give Fixxon a try. Personally, I like it better than Pictorico.
I agree that there might be too much Na2 used - which might be increasing contrast a little harshly. The transition between white and shadows on white on the modles's face and neck could be smoother. The very subtle tone changes on her face seen in the pre-processing image are exaggerated in the digital neg-to-print. The tones on the neck are much farther from the tones of the face in the print. Might just need some tweaking of the negative and/or lowering the contrast caused by the Na2.
Working with the white tones takes a fine touch. Small changes in density of the ink printed in the highlights cause greater changes in the density of the tones on the print. (One is dealing with small amounts of UV reaching the paper in the highlights.)
I would take another small bottle, put 20 drops of distilled water in it and add two drops of the 20% Na2. This should make 22 drops of 2% Na2 -- or close enough, but CHECK MY MATH!! But in general do something like that to dilute the solution in a large enough amount to use in a few printing sessions for repeatability.
Design your digital negative around the least amount of Na2 you can get away with...1) saves a little money, 2) IMO prints look better because one is working around the native contrast of the process...and allows one room to use just a little bit more Na2 for a print if it needs it, instead of using large amounts of Na2 to pump up contrast.
PS...for my own work I use just the platinum and palladium salts and the ferric oxalate (no contrast agent) with in-camera LF negatives.
Yes, I am using Na2 20%. I dilute with drops of distilled water cause my working image is quite small. Perhaps, that is not enough dilution.
Speaking of diluting Na2, any tips on how to get this done?
I'm struggling with diluting down to drops and trying to pick it up again for the sensitiser.
I finally started dabbling with Pt Pd printing. The photo below is I think the best one out of my first batch of testing.
View attachment 379429
I am after some critique from the well of knowledge here. Particularly if you see areas that I should improve on or pay more attention to.
And some questions from myself:
Details of my process:
- The transition from skin color to white makeup on the face seems blotchy. Is it normal for a print this size(about 4.5x6.5") or there can be improvements? *note that the photo is of a geisha with white face makeup and not natural skin color
- I use Hahnemuhle platinum rag. Am I crazy thinking the 2 surfaces are different and there is a smoother one?
- I use Bostick and Sullivan's Na2 (20%) Pt Pd kit
- Hahnemuhle platinum rag paper
- Image size approx 4.5x6.5"
- Exposure with UV LED box
- I do not have access to humidifier to I left the paper in the bathroom for a bit after a shower
- Digital negatives created following Bostick and Sullivan's guide and printed on pictorico. This is how it looks before processing:
View attachment 379433
Critiques are welcome. Thanks in advance.
A great start. But please be aware that using the so-called "Na2" (otherwise "sodium platinum") does NOT give you a print with any platinum in it, only palladium. This is because the chemical form of platinum in Na2 is not precipitated onto your paper and into print.
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