Polypan F

AgX · Oct 23, 2013

hannibal_barcauk said:
Hi, Martin!
The Rondinax is just superb, I use it for Colour C41 now too! It uses only 200ml of each chemical solution and I'll get 5 or 6 rolls easily. ... If I'm correct, the Jobos and Pattersons use much more solution even for only one spiral.

The smallest Jobo reel (System 1500) needs 140ml for rotational and 250ml for inverted processing.

hannibal_barcauk · Oct 23, 2013

That's good, but without the need to use a dark bag - ie: cartridge in -> negatives out, it's a really efficient and cost effective process with my Agfa.

PeterB · Oct 24, 2013

Wow. I just stumbled across this long running thread and was surprised to find nobody mention that the lack of anti-halation layer gives it a look similar to Kodak's HIE. I LOVE HIE. I only wish I got into MF before Kodak discontinued it.

Anyway, if I was to use this film I would be polishing up my pressure plate real good !

AgX · Oct 24, 2013

Put some aluminium foil on it.

PeterB · Oct 24, 2013

Yeah I considered that but wondered if it might not give TOO much halation and really wash out the image, anyway worth experimenting as the film is so cheap.

damonff · Aug 12, 2014

I love this film. I use Rodinal 1:100 semi stand for one hour. EI 125.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quZYFJBWY...o/rlRpjUE2cQE/s1600/last+%28109+of+143%29.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dMohUum_g...Pk/-k9lcrfg9R4/s1600/last+%2827+of+143%29.jpg

dosilverhalide · Aug 12, 2014

I have shot about 25 , 24 frame rolls of this film. I shot it from 25 to 400 apeed. All were developed in D76 1 to 1 at around 72 degrees for 8 minutes for the slower speeds and up to 12 minutes for the faster speeds. I got my best results at asa 50. Negatives at 400 were thin although more developing time might fix that. If you shoot anything bright white or light in color in direct sunlight, the white will flare out. I've had very good results shooting it on overcast days. I like using this film. J.

damonff · Aug 16, 2014

dosilverhalide said:
I have shot about 25 , 24 frame rolls of this film. I shot it from 25 to 400 apeed. All were developed in D76 1 to 1 at around 72 degrees for 8 minutes for the slower speeds and up to 12 minutes for the faster speeds. I got my best results at asa 50. Negatives at 400 were thin although more developing time might fix that. If you shoot anything bright white or light in color in direct sunlight, the white will flare out. I've had very good results shooting it on overcast days. I like using this film. J.

Flare out like this?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...ytKINcYwE/s912/last%20%2892%20of%20143%29.jpg

padesig · Aug 17, 2014

Really nice results for a cheap film.... This flare in highlights remember me the Lucky 100 and may be useful for high key prints...

dosilverhalide · Aug 20, 2014

Yes, flare like that. J.

Ko.Fe. · Aug 22, 2014

Thanks to OP.
i ordered it.
Going to be my second 90m of this film.
First 90m roll didn't went well. All frames were with dots at exactly same place.
But I managed some prints with it.
Good film to test unknown and after service cameras, lenses and just to guff around.

dosilverhalide · Aug 24, 2014

Just shot a roll at asa 400. One hour semi stand, a couple of inversions every 15 minutes. Using D76 at 1-1, about 72 degrees or so. Bullet proof negatives, yea, J.

damonff · Aug 25, 2014

dosilverhalide said:
Just shot a roll at asa 400. One hour semi stand, a couple of inversions every 15 minutes. Using D76 at 1-1, about 72 degrees or so. Bullet proof negatives, yea, J.

Great news! I have to try D76 semi-stand. Thanks.

padesig · Aug 27, 2014

dosilverhalide said:
Just shot a roll at asa 400. One hour semi stand, a couple of inversions every 15 minutes. Using D76 at 1-1, about 72 degrees or so. Bullet proof negatives, yea, J.

May you post some frame? I'm in doubt to buy or not the big roll... Ko. Fe. write about problems on the film surface, may you confirm them?

Xmas · Aug 27, 2014

padesig said:
May you post some frame? I'm in doubt to buy or not the big roll... Ko. Fe. write about problems on the film surface, may you confirm them?

If you use any of the off brand film you need to be cautious as many are not pre hardened.

no presoak
no carbonate devs
plain water stop to within 3F
plain fix to within 3F
wash to within 3F

I still use a film squeegee to reduce water marks and dry time without problems.

And Rodinal 1+100 70C 60 mins stand, so there is a pH shock from dev to stop.

Test dev both ends of reel is desirable with off brands, or cine!

pdeeh · Aug 27, 2014

I shot 90m of PPF and wasn't particularly careful with it, although my normal process is consistent with temps and whatnot, and I never had any spotting or scratches or really any problems that were not of my own making.

I wouldn't buy any more unless I couldn't afford anything else, but it's nowhere near as bad as some would make out.

I got some very nice shots off it when I took advantage of its limitations (the halation it show sfor instance)

When I shot it at 200 and developed it in a catechol/carbonate developer I got some remarkably high-acutance and almost invisible grain, if that's your thing.

padesig · Aug 27, 2014

Thank you Xmas and pdeeh!

trendland · Sep 27, 2017

Murray Kelly said:
There's pages and pages about it on the web.
The Polystar is conjecturally 'polyester'.
It is a movie print film and has no AH backing so use it with a camera that doesn't have a highly polished pressure plate.*
It seems to be the old Pan F coating, not the plus.
It is very popular with the Caffenol putsch. No problem pushing to 100 and in Diafine even more.
The sprocket holes are just perfect in spacing.
You have to get to live with the lack of edge markings and the bigger reel. What more do you want for that money?

Look at the Flickr site and see what can be done with it.

If you haven't tried it, don't knock it. Great for the frugal.

*And to kill the flare, should you have a problem, try covering the pressure plate with 120 backing paper. An instant cure.

TO kill the flare by covering the pressure
plate with backing paper is perhaps a little sticky.
But what is sayed against to paint the pressure plate with extreme matt paint?
As I allways only would take an old camera to manipulate the pressure plate with backing paper I also only would paint old equipment.

with regards

trendland · Sep 27, 2017

Simon R Galley said:
We never made miniature copy film, it ain't PAN F or PAN F plus.

Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :

Let me ask Simon @ Ilford Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :
Do you remember if ILFORD licenced the manufacturing of Copy Film to other companies in germany such as AGFA in
the past? And Do you remember if the licence to do so - was under following restrictions :
The use of Ilford original formuations emulsion backing process is restricted to produce other photographic films than Ilford has allowed under licence ?

Do you remember such kind of "joint venture" a little simular with joint ventures you have today with Tetenal
in regard of developer / chems ?

with regards

Gerald C Koch · Sep 27, 2017

AFAIK Simon no longer visits APUG. But that is of little consequence as Polypan F is NOT made by Ilford/Harmon. What it is is police surveillance film. Such films need only capture an image and technical quality is not important. As several have indicated avoid this film as it is no bargain. With all repurposed film it is not intended for general use.

As I mentioned on another thread I personally will not deal with any company that tries to defraud the consumer. The seller of the film goes out his way to trick the buyer into think that his film is Ilford Pan F. It is not!!!

Murray Kelly · Sep 27, 2017

Unlike Kodak Surveillance film (Hawkeye) Gerald? I am treating that like a T-grain film and am most impressed. Do you have any knowledge of the film's actual origin? Thanks..

Gerald C Koch · Sep 27, 2017

Murray Kelly said:
Unlike Kodak Surveillance film (Hawkeye) Gerald? I am treating that like a T-grain film and am most impressed. Do you have any knowledge of the film's actual origin? Thanks..

The label on the can says that it is made in the EU probably in Germany as the label is partly in German. The manufacturer is Polystar. The problem for me is the film's faults cannot be corrected by exposure or choice of developer. Avoid contrasty lighting situations.

Murray Kelly · Sep 27, 2017

Avoiding contrast is almost like saying avoid flare. especially with that film. I've had mixed results and it is a fun thing with me. I am truly amateur.'
Thanks for the comment.

pdeeh · Sep 27, 2017

Gerald C Koch said:
As several have indicated avoid this film as it is no bargain.

I liked it, and it was a bargain, but it seems to have disappeared in bulk form; i think there was a thread this year which suggested that it had been the last frozen master roll of a no-longer manufactured product that was being sold off in bulk rolls. My memory might be faulty though,
if anyone really wants to try it there's a few short rolls - 7 or 12 metres - or 36-shot cassettes being sold on ebay at inflated prices

Murray Kelly · Sep 27, 2017

Thanks to you too pdeeh. I am a world away from my cache (in France) so cannot check the 2 cans I have but what Gerald says sounds about right. There was a story that it was a cine print film. Maybe in this old thread, above. v.s.

Polypan F

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