Sometimes a proof is made and simple notes are passed on to me so I can see the Style they are trying to achieve. Telling me where to exactly put tone based on a poor print is not helpful.The other thing, Bob, wouldn’t a professional printer look at these maps and say “yup, looks about right” and then just go about their work (which might be about the same dodge and burns)?
What’s what I feel.
I still do just three prints per negative. If I can’t make it with just a few prints doing “third stop” corrections here and there, I cut my losses and move to the next.
I can’t recall exactly what he told me, but a commercial printer I know would throw in an extra step (bleaching, possibly) just to make it difficult for someone else to replicate his printing.
That's correct; thanks! I should have formulated more carefully. I meant "optical/analog printing directly from color positives is all but dead."
...etc. - sure, and that's fine & gorgeous and I've done the same many times, but it's for another part of the forum. We were discussing manipulations in optical printing.
Printing on film paper from digital scans of chromes is part of one analog process
Magnum is obviously using them for marketing. Maybe Inirio didn't make those maps for any real reason. But if he didn't, he sure made an awful lot of them.it is more of a marketing ploy to convince people that the photographer directed a real printer in that way.
In the past when I printed for others sometimes very complex burning and dodging sequences were required for that "perfect" print. But I only did the work once.
The next step was to generate a copy negative from that perfect print. Then the clients edition (however many) was produced from that copy negative and not the original negative.
The advantage to me was a lot less time and labour. The advantage to the client was that all the prints in the edition were identical.
You must have got the contrast and density of the copy negative perfect. Would you be able to let us know what was involved in that process?
It may be due to a lack of confidence in my printing skills. I've started to exhibit my work this year and it's difficult to know how my prints have held up to scrutiny. That said, I am pleased with them or I wouldn't show them at all, so maybe that's all that really matters.
I can’t recall exactly what he told me, but a commercial printer I know would throw in an extra step (bleaching, possibly) just to make it difficult for someone else to replicate his printing.
The point the printer was trying to make was to have photographers return to him for additional prints, since others might not be able to reproduce them the same. A bit underhanded, but not the worst business strategy.I’d never do it to make it difficult to reproduce (I have secret notches in my negative carriers for that purpose).
But bleach is great way to improve final print appearance of small spots for a difficult negative.
The "secret" to making perfect copy negatives is a permanently set up copy station that has been pre-calibrated. It consists of the same copy stand, same copy camera, same lens, same film, and same lights where basically nothing moves between jobs. The copy negative always gets developed the same way. The only variable is the print being copied and given the limited range of reflection densities in a paper print any decently exposed and processed negative will capture them all.You must have got the contrast and density of the copy negative perfect. Would you be able to let us know what was involved in that process?
Sometimes a proof is made and simple notes are passed on to me so I can see the Style they are trying to achieve. Telling me where to exactly put tone based on a poor print is not helpful.
The notes I take go something like this.. fur coat walking backlight.- Flash Required- start pack 1.5 filter - two hits of 5 filter- dodge coat 15percent all exposures, 5 grade burn to bring out Blacks in Highlights, 1 burn soft light.This is after the print has been made and not before. I never draw maps because the problems of the neg are pretty much obvious to someone who has been looking at an inverted image on easel for a long time.
I have known many professional printers in my career and I have not met one who would work from the diagrams the OP has presented, it just does not make sense and as some have pointed out it is more of a marketing ploy to convince people that the photographer directed a real printer in that way.
I feel that its a collaboration and on many printing jobs the photographer is allowed in the darkroom to observe but never to direct.
To be a professional printer is not a easy casual task and is one where the printer must always be working to keep ones skills high. Everyone hear has heard it takes 10.000 hours to master any single printing process, I kind of believe this to be true, not sure of the number, but to work up the industry one must work under the enlarger quite a bit to see all the nuances involved with laying down tone on paper.
I have encountered many very skilled Lawyers, Doctors, Engineers , Architects that are retired with many letters behind their names comment on how simple my job is and can verbalize second hand knowledge freely to me on how to make a print. But the buck stops the moment they get in front of an enlarger and have to make sellable world class prints.
That person is very rare, I have not met many that can do both, photograph and print.
I have chosen printing over taking photographs, therefore I always refer to myself as a printmaker even though I use large cameras to record my inventory.
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