I'm a Hasselbladowner. But $500 for a CLA would convince me to write the camera off. Even though that I see$500 reasonable for 2 days of work!
People aren't willing to pay what the work is worth (for Retina cameras). This is one major reason I have declined to add the Reflex models to my work list - this camera is so complex and time consuming to service (2 full days of labor) that nobody is interested in paying $400+ to service one. (I've had many inquiries, but when I quote the price, they all decline to get the work done)
If you're a Hasselblad technician, or a Rolleiflex specialist, then people will pay $300-$500 to get work done, but not "the lowly Retina".
That is interesting! Could you tell us something about the workshops at Sover?
What do you learn there, what is the process like and whether you can also take part as a layperson who has never tried to repair a camera?
Additional question: To what extent is the electronics of the F2 treated? The photomic viewfinders are complex electromechanical works of art
I'm a Hasselbladowner. But $500 for a CLA would convince me to write the camera off. Even though that I see$500 reasonable for 2 days of work!
I'm a Hasselbladowner. But $500 for a CLA would convince me to write the camera off. Even though that I see$500 reasonable for 2 days of work!
For us Hasselblad owners (I have a black 1984 500C/M), it's rare to send in a camera to do more than address one or two specific problems, so although we may spend $$$$ over the years to keep the camera running well, we rarely have to fork out a lot of money in one go, for the occasional repair or service.
If someone sends me a Retina IIIC (type 028) and specifies that they can only afford to service the shutter, I will do it, and that typically costs $70-80. But if they want the whole camera stripped right down to its components, and all of them cleaned, lubricated where needed, reassembled and calibrated, that is about 9 hours of work, for which I charge $200. If any of my clients have felt that they did not get good value for the money, they did not tell me so.
YES! That happened to my 1981 BMW. The gears were installed dry because the nylon was supposed to be slick. You buy replacement gears from, of all names, OdometerGears.com. They also make replacement gears for the height adjustment device inside Xenon headlights (where the heat ruins inferior plastic).
My intent is to fully document the process of repair for the first camera. The A-1 is complex but is not even close to what later cameras have going on. Fingers crossed on that one.
GOOD LUCK!!
I've not encountered nylon parts in high wear areas yet. Most of my time is spent working on FTs and FTbs. No motor drives there. The FTb nylon gears are limited to the shutter speed/light meter linkage. That's a light use area and the gears seem to hold up well (so far). In a motor drive, especially a greased one, that might change. Dry nylon seems relatively stable. Having said that, I have seen odometer gears in old BMWs crumble after a couple of decades. I am trying to remember if BMW lubed those gears or if they ran them dry in the old cars.
OFF TOPIC: Mercedes r109 (SL) gears appeared lubricated, though the wet appearance may be due to the breakdown of the plastic. I think every R109 has this problem.
My gears were like jello. (photograph shows Mercedes SL560 odometer gears).
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