I never noticed this before, but my most recent purchase of Rollei Infrared says it is ISO 200/24 - 400/27.
Whaaaaat?
Why can't they figure out what ISO their own film is?
When is it ISO 200/24?
When is it ISO 400/27?
Why?
What does this imply for the shooter? Do I have to bracket 4 shots for every scene - 200, one stop more light, ISO 400, one stop less light? Or can I just meter at 200 or 400 and take 2 shots adjusting 5 stops from each with a 720 filter?
Enquiring minds want to know.
This is an aerial surveillance film with extended sensitivity in the red range. Due to the specific conditions it is intended for, its speed rating is not according to the ISO standard we are used to, but according to EAFS. The official rating is in the range of 125 to 250. Besides the rating being according to a different standard, the target values for contrast and density are also not what we like. We definitely don't want that contrast...
I would shoot it as 200 ASA -5 or -6 stops depending on the scene with a 720 nm filter.
There is more infrared light on a sunny day, so use 400 ISO if the sun is out to avoid over exposure and 200 ISO on a dull day.
I never noticed this before, but my most recent purchase of Rollei Infrared says it is ISO 200/24 - 400/27.
Whaaaaat?
Why can't they figure out what ISO their own film is?
When is it ISO 200/24?
When is it ISO 400/27?
Why?
What does this imply for the shooter? Do I have to bracket 4 shots for every scene - 200, one stop more light, ISO 400, one stop less light? Or can I just meter at 200 or 400 and take 2 shots adjusting 5 stops from each with a 720 filter?
Enquiring minds want to know.
The IR difference between a sunny our a cloudy day would have only a very slight effect on total exposure
Isn't this irrelevant when you cut off everything below filter value? No UV and not much visual passes through say 715nm filter.IR film is sensitive to UV, visual light & near IR. The ratios of these change with conditions (& any filters you use).
You're light meter is generally just seeing visual light.
Mine works best at 100 (while developing for 200) for normal shooting and 6 for infrared. When using yellow/orange/red filters the factor seems to be less compensation than with other films.
I'm not a huge fan of it anymore because I've found lots of emulsion defects in it (widespread scratches, dots, mottling) from several sources including Rollei.
Isn't this irrelevant when you cut off everything below filter value? No UV and not much visual passes through say 715nm filter.
And no NIR sensitive film manufactured today goes beyond 750nm to my knowledge - so there's little value of using a filter that starts to let light though from a point where NIR film sensitivity dips. 715/720 is the sweetspot today with film - just enough to cut the overpowering visual off and to leave some NIR/deep red to make the exposure.
I never noticed this before, but my most recent purchase of Rollei Infrared says it is ISO 200/24 - 400/27.
Whaaaaat?
Why can't they figure out what ISO their own film is?
When is it ISO 200/24?
When is it ISO 400/27?
Why?
What does this imply for the shooter? Do I have to bracket 4 shots for every scene - 200, one stop more light, ISO 400, one stop less light? Or can I just meter at 200 or 400 and take 2 shots adjusting 5 stops from each with a 720 filter?
Enquiring minds want to know.
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