I did for 5 minutes, probably more, I just let the uniroller roll with water while I prep the chemicals.Did you soak the film first in a water bath to remove the anti-halation layer?
Did you soak the film first in a water bath to remove the anti-halation layer?
Bought in July in Amsterdam, it was just in a silver wrapper no longer in the canister thingy. I was surprised they had it, I thought IR400 was no longer available and was using Retro 400 for IR.when did you buy the IR film? where did you buy it from? did you contact Maco yet?
I had this same issue a few years ago and was hoping that it was a one time issue.
I use pre-soak to avoid bubbles and use standard development times in rotary development.I never ever heard of presoaking film before I joined Apug.
Nor, does Agfa, who made this film, hint at a presoak.
To my understanding this presoaking is a mere american idea.
This film has its anti-halation layer embedded, it cannot be removed without destroying the film.
yeh, that would be a good guess. the fact that it wasnt in a box would be a sign to me of improper storageI would suspect the film had been frozen and thawed multiple times and what little moisture was present in the wrapper finally had an effect on the emulsion.
Looks like backing paper issue.
... pre-soaking can be useful if there's a big difference between your usual processing temp and the ambient temp of your darkroom. It ensures that the tank and reel don't change the temp of the incoming solutions. The anti halation layer is a water soluble dye dispersed in the emulsion - and the washes out in the pre soak, coloring it in the process. Not sure this idea can be claimed by the Americans.I never ever heard of presoaking film before I joined Apug.
Nor, does Agfa, who made this film, hint at a presoak.
To my understanding this presoaking is a mere american idea.
This film has its anti-halation layer embedded, it cannot be removed without destroying the film.
You are right on brining the reel loaded with film to temperature, but this can be achieved by other means too.
Any presoak will affect the dynamics of the processing.
There is no need to wash-out any dye before starting the processing proper.
Never ever heard of such pollution.
Well, there are several "backing paper" issues:
-) related to long storage in extreme humid condition
-) related to chemical interaction between backing-paper/printing and the emusion
-) abrasion/stress between paper and emulsion
-
Actually it did, but for quite a long period when 120 volumes were very high and photographic product shipping was quite efficient - from the 1970s or maybe a bit earlier - it wasn't often seen.Regardless, it all points to the backing paper. Never used to be an issue...or has it?
I guess when volumes were high, people never stored film, nor would it sit baking in trucks. They bought it and shot it.... However, I always kept a few rolls in my desk drawer in Japan, which is notorious for hot and humid summers. Never saw backing paper issues.
...what other ways would you suggest of bringing the tank and reel to process temp? Tempering with water would be the most effeicient - especially with 'plastics'. I can believe that the process dynamics will be changed tempering vs non tempering - but it's not important as long as you are consistent. The dye will either wash out into the developer or the tempering wash - it doesn't react with the developer.You are right on brining the reel loaded with film to temperature, but this can be achieved by other means too.
Any presoak will affect the dynamics of the processing.
There is no need to wash-out any dye before starting the processing proper.
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