Sodium Thiosulfate and pool supply stores

Wayne

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It makes hardening fixer if you add hardener, and non hardening fix if you dont. When I used it (I've succumbed to evil rapid fix these days) I just use thiosulfate and sulfite for Plain Fix. Here is an article

http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/plain.htm
 

mikepry

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joeyk49 said:
Ok...now that I bit, I'm hooked...

Is there a thread on how exactly to make it...so that I don't have to waste the time of those on this thread who are looking for contacts and resources?

Does this make hardening or non hardening fixer?

Here is the link to the F-24 fixer recipe in the chemistry section of the forum.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 

dancqu

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joeyk49 said:
Is there a thread on how exactly to make it...
Does this make hardening or non hardening fixer?

If you are working with RC and sodium thiosulfate add
6 grams of the anhydrous or 9 grams of the penta to
250 ml of water. That will do for one 8 x 10. Up or
down the amount and solution volume according
to the size of print and it's appropriate tray.
One fix will give archival results.

Agitation is important because the fixer is very
dilute. From the rear fold the print over itself and
pull forward; emulsion up then down. Thus you stir
the solution. Do the same right to left; emulsion up.
Repeat the two foldings every half minute. Twixt
agitations I give the tray some little movement.
Allow 2 1/2 minutes.

I've not by a long shot tested all papers. Test for
the complete removal of all silver by performing
the ST-1 sulfide for silver test.

With fresh fix each print you don't need preservatives.
Ph adjustment also is not needed. I've found sodium
thiosulfate to be very near a neutral ph of 7. You
have no acid fix to maintain so drop the stop.

Hardener pretty much is a thing of the past. Dan
 
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