I would try "Wire Glue" first, but if that doesn't work, I'd try simply wrapping some silver or silver-plated wire onto the existing battery terminals. Why silver? Because even when oxidized, it's a good electrical conductor, unlike copper.
With this view, I would totally approve your idea, provided that you don't have tolerance issues with battery length due to the possibly reduced headroom.
If a part, for example in a camera, is damaged, there are three options for repair:
A fourth solution would be to make a new part yourself for the replacement.
- replacing it with a new original spare part,
- replacing it with a used original spare part,
- patching the broken part.
New original spare parts
These are rare to find and, if they are, expensive. „New old stock parts“ is the search term for them.
Sometimes individual parts or bundles of these items are offered after a repair shop has closed down.
Used original spare parts
These are usually obtained by buying a device for dismantling, but are also offered individually.
The prices for these, including shipping costs, are considerable. You can buy them cheaper from the bargain bins of second-hand shops.
Patching the broken part
This is an attempt to get the broken original part working again. This is probably the most common solution in DIY.
This is where the realm of the more or less talented, skilled and well-equipped hobbyist begins.
The spectrum ranges from solutions that are almost better than the original to totally botched work.
This is often the only way to get a photo device working again.
It also plays a role whether the solution is presentable, especially if the area is visible. The eye also wants to be satisfied.
The fourth solution
making a spare part yourself, is one I am offering here out of competition.
This means you are not using the solution provided by the manufacturer and probably exeeds also the options of a hobby workshop.
A restoration of the camera fails due to three soldering points
I'm currently concerned with this issue because I'm looking for a solution for the defective battery holder on a Canon EF.
View attachment 382158
The repair is failing because I can't solder any of the corresponding three cables onto the battery holder.
The original soldering points are destroyed by battery electrolyte and therefore had to be removed. Attaching new soldering points doesn't work.
A solution according to option three would be to completely re-equip the battery holder with contacts that are attached over the old ones. Conductive copper foil and jumper wire can be used for this. A DIY job that remains visible every time the batteries are changed.
Even if it works, is such a solution pleasing to the eye? Or is it only the restored functionality of the camera that matters?
What do you think?
Two Canon EFs not working: Damage to the power supply caused by battery electrolyte [repaired both]
I have had two two beautiful Canon EFs for many years. They have been working, but the battery control LED on one of them wouldn't come on. I didn't think anything of it, and when I started repairing, I wanted to take a look at the problem. Today I fitted both with 1.35 volt Weincell batteries...www.photrio.com
Assuming you have a new old stock part, are you still stuck with zinc/air cells? If these cameras are stuck with these cells I would abort.
If the camera can be made to function with a silver or alkaline cell, so somebody can use these beautiful cameras I suspect you'll need to fabricate a new holder. Doesn't even need to look the same just needs to work.
You mean that the remaining part of metal won't accept soldering because its surface is too heavy oxidated?The original soldering points are destroyed by battery electrolyte and therefore had to be removed. Attaching new soldering points doesn't work.
You mean that the remaining part of metal won't accept soldering because its surface is too heavy oxidated?
The parts are clean, but they do not accept solder.
You mean clean as free of oxide?
That is not enough.
Most of these thin metal parts are chrome-plated so they accept no soldering.
You have to remove the surface down to the sheer metal.
Correct me if I am wrong. You do not know for sure if the battery compartment is the only problem with the camera. So if I were you I would connect long wires and power the camera with external power source and verify if that is the case before working on the compartment replacement.
That may be because the part is cast zinc or zinc-aluminum alloy (Zamak, or "pot metal"). One of the classic methods of making electrical connections to die-cast zinc alloy parts is to drill a hole and thread in a small screw to hold a ring terminal. Providing there's space, of course...
Let me add another option:
#5 -- Use a substitute part. In other words use something that will work, but was made for something else. There are endless options here. They run from parts from other cameras (the same manufacture or not) but will fit, or might need some minor modification. Other substitutes might come from completely unrelated products.
Unfortunately, that doesn't make sense, because there are three cables to connect to the battery holder.
Two for the power supply and a third, whose function I couldn't figure out.
I can create the power supply externally, but I would have to provide an extra 1.35 volts for the third cable (it is connected to the battery holder between the two batteries).
That's tinkering work and not the original setup.
But because the battery holder doesn't show a stable connection, it is of course cause number 1.
Sorry this is mentioned in another thread, see below.
Because I believe your schematic diagram was not a correct one. I saw the diagram before (I can't find it now) but the EF power its circuitry with 2 voltage sources. 1.35 and 2.7V for different circuitry and thus it needs 3 wires. One of my EF actually would work if I install only 1 battery.
I have noticed that their are some shops online that have started to make small run replacements for popular commonly failed parts. (Canon A-series battery doors for example)
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