Spare parts for photo equipment repairs: three options and a fourth

[Andreas Thaler]

If a part, for example in a camera, is damaged, there are three options for repair:

1. replacing it with a new original spare part,
2. replacing it with a used original spare part,
3. patching the broken part.

A fourth solution would be to make a new part yourself for the replacement.


New original spare parts

These are rare to find and, if they are, expensive. „New old stock parts“ is the search term for them.

Sometimes individual parts or bundles of these items are offered after a repair shop has closed down.


Used original spare parts

These are usually obtained by buying a device for dismantling, but are also offered individually.

The prices for these, including shipping costs, are considerable. You can buy them cheaper from the bargain bins of second-hand shops.


Patching the broken part

This is an attempt to get the broken original part working again. This is probably the most common solution in DIY.

This is where the realm of the more or less talented, skilled and well-equipped hobbyist begins.

The spectrum ranges from solutions that are almost better than the original to totally botched work.

This is often the only way to get a photo device working again.

It also plays a role whether the solution is presentable, especially if the area is visible. The eye also wants to be satisfied.


The fourth solution

making a spare part yourself, is one I am offering here out of competition.

This means you are not using the solution provided by the manufacturer and probably exeeds also the options of a hobby workshop.


A restoration of the camera fails due to three soldering points

I'm currently concerned with this issue because I'm looking for a solution for the defective battery holder on a Canon EF.

The repair is failing because I can't solder any of the corresponding three cables onto the battery holder.

The original soldering points are destroyed by battery electrolyte and therefore had to be removed. Attaching new soldering points doesn't work.

A solution according to option three would be to completely re-equip the battery holder with contacts that are attached over the old ones. Conductive copper foil and jumper wire can be used for this. A DIY job that remains visible every time the batteries are changed.

Even if it works, is such a solution pleasing to the eye? Or is it only the restored functionality of the camera that matters?

What do you think?

---

Two Canon EFs not working: Damage to the power supply caused by battery electrolyte [repaired both]

I have had two two beautiful Canon EFs for many years. They have been working, but the battery control LED on one of them wouldn't come on. I didn't think anything of it, and when I started repairing, I wanted to take a look at the problem. Today I fitted both with 1.35 volt Weincell batteries...

www.photrio.com

 

[rippa_the_hutt]

I am definitely not a pro, and just perform basic fixes (broken doors, lens cleaning, stuck diaphragms, minor shutter repairs, general electrical repairs as this one here).
My utmost priority is on functionality, so the goal is to have the equipment up and working with as durable a fix as I can. Only qualm is whether some very unorthodox fix impairs equipment usability.
With this view, I would totally approve your idea, provided that you don't have tolerance issues with battery length due to the possibly reduced headroom.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Just opinion, but I'd much rather see an obvious repair in a working camera than yet another good camera consigned to shelf or scrap bin because an irreplaceable part failed.

 

[4season]

I would try "Wire Glue" first, but if that doesn't work, I'd try simply wrapping some silver or silver-plated wire onto the existing battery terminals. Why silver? Because even when oxidized, it's a good electrical conductor, unlike copper.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I would try "Wire Glue" first, but if that doesn't work, I'd try simply wrapping some silver or silver-plated wire onto the existing battery terminals. Why silver? Because even when oxidized, it's a good electrical conductor, unlike copper.

I have silver-plated wire, also in a thin version. I can tie it to the connections.

I have also ordered self-adhesive copper foil that conducts on both sides; I am curious to see if that will work.

Then the connection between the second and third battery has to be connected; enamelled copper wire is the thinnest conductor I have.

However, its cross-section could be too small for the load.

Definitely a DIY project.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

With this view, I would totally approve your idea, provided that you don't have tolerance issues with battery length due to the possibly reduced headroom.

Yes, it's tight in the battery holder, but it should be fine with the copper foil, which is thin.

I have to be careful that the minus and plus don't short-circuit, the contacts are very close together.

Tomorrow the Canon EF is coming from Finland for spare parts. I will then see what condition its battery holder is in.

 

[Laurent]

If a part, for example in a camera, is damaged, there are three options for repair:

1. replacing it with a new original spare part,
2. replacing it with a used original spare part,
3. patching the broken part.

A fourth solution would be to make a new part yourself for the replacement.


New original spare parts

These are rare to find and, if they are, expensive. „New old stock parts“ is the search term for them.

Sometimes individual parts or bundles of these items are offered after a repair shop has closed down.


Used original spare parts

These are usually obtained by buying a device for dismantling, but are also offered individually.

The prices for these, including shipping costs, are considerable. You can buy them cheaper from the bargain bins of second-hand shops.


Patching the broken part

This is an attempt to get the broken original part working again. This is probably the most common solution in DIY.

This is where the realm of the more or less talented, skilled and well-equipped hobbyist begins.

The spectrum ranges from solutions that are almost better than the original to totally botched work.

This is often the only way to get a photo device working again.

It also plays a role whether the solution is presentable, especially if the area is visible. The eye also wants to be satisfied.


The fourth solution

making a spare part yourself, is one I am offering here out of competition.

This means you are not using the solution provided by the manufacturer and probably exeeds also the options of a hobby workshop.


A restoration of the camera fails due to three soldering points

I'm currently concerned with this issue because I'm looking for a solution for the defective battery holder on a Canon EF.

View attachment 382158

The repair is failing because I can't solder any of the corresponding three cables onto the battery holder.

The original soldering points are destroyed by battery electrolyte and therefore had to be removed. Attaching new soldering points doesn't work.

A solution according to option three would be to completely re-equip the battery holder with contacts that are attached over the old ones. Conductive copper foil and jumper wire can be used for this. A DIY job that remains visible every time the batteries are changed.

Even if it works, is such a solution pleasing to the eye? Or is it only the restored functionality of the camera that matters?

What do you think?

---

Two Canon EFs not working: Damage to the power supply caused by battery electrolyte [repaired both]

I have had two two beautiful Canon EFs for many years. They have been working, but the battery control LED on one of them wouldn't come on. I didn't think anything of it, and when I started repairing, I wanted to take a look at the problem. Today I fitted both with 1.35 volt Weincell batteries...

www.photrio.com

If it's not for a collector item, I see no harm in replacing a defective part with a home made one which does the job. For me the function is more important than the look, especially for a hidden part.

 

[mshchem]

Assuming you have a new old stock part, are you still stuck with zinc/air cells? If these cameras are stuck with these cells I would abort.
If the camera can be made to function with a silver or alkaline cell, so somebody can use these beautiful cameras I suspect you'll need to fabricate a new holder. Doesn't even need to look the same just needs to work.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Assuming you have a new old stock part, are you still stuck with zinc/air cells? If these cameras are stuck with these cells I would abort.
If the camera can be made to function with a silver or alkaline cell, so somebody can use these beautiful cameras I suspect you'll need to fabricate a new holder. Doesn't even need to look the same just needs to work.

As far as I know, the Canon EF can also be operated with 1.5 volt batteries.

 

[forest bagger]

The original soldering points are destroyed by battery electrolyte and therefore had to be removed. Attaching new soldering points doesn't work.

You mean that the remaining part of metal won't accept soldering because its surface is too heavy oxidated?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

You mean that the remaining part of metal won't accept soldering because its surface is too heavy oxidated?

The parts are clean, but they do not accept solder.

 

[forest bagger]

You mean clean as free of oxide?
That is not enough.
Most of these thin metal parts are chrome-plated so they accept no soldering.
You have to remove the surface down to the sheer metal.

 

[xkaes]

Let me add another option:

#5 -- Use a substitute part. In other words use something that will work, but was made for something else. There are endless options here. They run from parts from other cameras (the same manufacture or not) but will fit, or might need some minor modification. Other substitutes might come from completely unrelated products.

Here's a contemporary example. I just unearthed a substitute for a missing part on one of my cameras. The part is a STOP PIN. It's very small, and impossible to find. It is basically a 4mm diameter, round tab that is 10mm long. On one end it is threaded to screw into a threaded hole on the camera body. All it does it keep a camera lever from moving too far. I searched for a replacement part without any luck, but I did find a NUTS & BOLTS seller who has a bolt that is the same size. It's threaded the entire length -- unlike the missing bolt -- but otherwise it will do the job. I can easily fill in the top threads on the bolt with epoxy, paint it black, and it will look like the real McCoy. No special skills or tools needed.

Necessity is the Mother of Invention.

 

[Chan Tran]

One thing I know that the EF doesn't need mercury batteries. I run them on alkaline and the meter is accurate. So If I make new holder I will make it to fit the SR44 batteries.

 

[Chan Tran]

Correct me if I am wrong. You do not know for sure if the battery compartment is the only problem with the camera. So if I were you I would connect long wires and power the camera with external power source and verify if that is the case before working on the compartment replacement.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The parts are clean, but they do not accept solder.

That may be because the part is cast zinc or zinc-aluminum alloy (Zamak, or "pot metal"). One of the classic methods of making electrical connections to die-cast zinc alloy parts is to drill a hole and thread in a small screw to hold a ring terminal. Providing there's space, of course...

 

[Andreas Thaler]

You mean clean as free of oxide?
That is not enough.
Most of these thin metal parts are chrome-plated so they accept no soldering.
You have to remove the surface down to the sheer metal.

It's just the pure material, I can just mill parts of it away.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Correct me if I am wrong. You do not know for sure if the battery compartment is the only problem with the camera. So if I were you I would connect long wires and power the camera with external power source and verify if that is the case before working on the compartment replacement.

Unfortunately, that doesn't make sense, because there are three cables to connect to the battery holder.

Two for the power supply and a third, whose function I couldn't figure out.

I can create the power supply externally, but I would have to provide an extra 1.35 volts for the third cable (it is connected to the battery holder between the two batteries).

That's tinkering work and not the original setup.

But because the battery holder doesn't show a stable connection, it is of course cause number 1.

Sorry this is mentioned in another thread, see below.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

That may be because the part is cast zinc or zinc-aluminum alloy (Zamak, or "pot metal"). One of the classic methods of making electrical connections to die-cast zinc alloy parts is to drill a hole and thread in a small screw to hold a ring terminal. Providing there's space, of course...

An elegant solution!

Unfortunately, it is beyond my tactile resolution; the connections are very small and some of them are very close together.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I am sorry.

Unfortunately, I created a parallel thread with the example with the battery holder.

Here is the project:

Two Canon EFs not working: Damage to the power supply caused by battery electrolyte [repaired both]

I have had two two beautiful Canon EFs for many years. They have been working, but the battery control LED on one of them wouldn't come on. I didn't think anything of it, and when I started repairing, I wanted to take a look at the problem. Today I fitted both with 1.35 volt Weincell batteries...

www.photrio.com

Incidentally, I was able to solve the problem by replacing the battery holder.

Two Canon EFs are saved

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Let me add another option:

#5 -- Use a substitute part. In other words use something that will work, but was made for something else. There are endless options here. They run from parts from other cameras (the same manufacture or not) but will fit, or might need some minor modification. Other substitutes might come from completely unrelated products.

Always look for original replacements!

Today I was able to exchange the defective battery holder for one from a spare part EF that is fine, see link above.

 

[Chan Tran]

Unfortunately, that doesn't make sense, because there are three cables to connect to the battery holder.

Two for the power supply and a third, whose function I couldn't figure out.

I can create the power supply externally, but I would have to provide an extra 1.35 volts for the third cable (it is connected to the battery holder between the two batteries).

That's tinkering work and not the original setup.

But because the battery holder doesn't show a stable connection, it is of course cause number 1.

Sorry this is mentioned in another thread, see below.

Because I believe your schematic diagram was not a correct one. I saw the diagram before (I can't find it now) but the EF powers its circuitry with 2 voltage sources. 1.35 and 2.7V for different circuitry and thus it needs 3 wires. One of my EF actually would work if I install only 1 battery. I need to get that diagram again and study it more. I believe the 2 batteries in series provides 2.7V to the long shutter control circuit. One of the battery alone would power the metering circuit and aperture control in auto mode. I believe the one EF that only works with 1 battery has a bad circuit in the electronic shutter. When 2 batteries are installed it would draw too much current and basically kill the power from both batteries. With only 1 battery the metering circuit and aperture control works but I don't have shutter speed of 1 to 8 seconds. Only from 1/2 to 1/1000 which isn't bad.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Because I believe your schematic diagram was not a correct one. I saw the diagram before (I can't find it now) but the EF power its circuitry with 2 voltage sources. 1.35 and 2.7V for different circuitry and thus it needs 3 wires. One of my EF actually would work if I install only 1 battery.

According to the Nat Cam Service Manual, there were several versions of the circuit.

This section of a circuit diagram matches the connections on the battery holders (2 x 1.35 volts) of my three EFs.

1.35 volts come directly from one battery.

Canon EF Service Guide

National Camera Repair Guide

learncamerarepair.com

 

[cmacd123]

I have noticed that their are some shops online that have started to make small run replacements for popular commonly failed parts. (Canon A-series battery doors for example)

 

[xkaes]

I have noticed that their are some shops online that have started to make small run replacements for popular commonly failed parts. (Canon A-series battery doors for example)

I hope the Internet makes them easy to find. I know of a place that specializes in camera screw-in battery covers. Now if I could only find a place making 3D-printed film advance lever caps!!!