43.25 degrees north full sun today EV 14.7
How did you get to 14.66.I get an even 15 at f/16 and 1/100/s
This may have been covered but isn't the sunny 16 rule derived from the reciprocity of the iso at f16? therefore f16 @ 1/100 for iso 100. Not 1/125th which is .3 EV difference.
Is that why you guys drink so much?I know, I would.
how are people arriving at their EV readings? Incident or reading a grey card and are you basing the reading angled incident to the camera lens or directly at the sun?
If you are using a grey card and a reflected meter how you position the card can vary the EV reading or calculated reading. Practically an incident meter is the only consistent way to determine sunny 16
Ralph Lambrecht said:Please take your incident meters,meters,step outside,point the dome directly into the sun and take an EV reading.
Please take your incident meters,meters,step outside,point the dome directly into the sun and take an EV reading.
Whilst this method will probably give a more consistent reading of the sun's intensity around the world, a real incident reading should be with the meter pointing at the camera from the subject rather than directly at the light source.
Steve.
No. As I wrote earlier, its the closest shutter speed to 1/ISO which on modern cameras would be 1/125.
It's not supposed to be something accurate to two decimal places! It's a close approximation to get acceptably exposed negatives in the normal range of daylight in the absence of a light meter.
Steve.
New Hampshire, USA
12:00 p.m. EV 15
You don't actually need a Johnson's Exposure Disc to make use of it.
I reverse engineered mine to give this (which I have posted here before):
Start with a number depending on ISO used:
ISO 25 8
ISO 50 9
ISO 100 10
ISO 200 11
ISO 400 12
ISO 800 13
ISO 1600 14
Add a number depending on the scene:
Strong sun with white clouds +4
Strong Sun +3
Weak, hazy sun +2
Dull +1
Very dull 0
Add a number depending on the time and date:
May to August, 10 am to 3 pm +4
May to August, 8-10 am, 3-6 pm +3
May to August, 7-8 am, 6-7 pm +2
September, October, March & April, 10 am to 3 pm +3
September, October, March & April, 8-10 am, 3-6 pm +2
September, October, March & April, 7-8 am, 6-7 pm +2
November to February, 10 am to 3 pm +2
November to February, 9 to 10 am +1
And finally, subtract a number depending on the scene:
Open sea and sky and scenes from the air 0
Distant landscapes and beach and snow scenes -1
Open landscapes and scenes with light foreground -2
Groups in the open and near views of houses and trees -3
Distant buildings and wide streets -4
Scenes with heavy foreground and near landscapes -5
Close up portraits in the shade and scenes in heavy shade -6
Bright interiors -7
Dull interiors -14 (disc says rotate twice)
As a test, put in some standard sunny 16 settings:
ISO 100, start with 10
Bright sunny day, use strong sun setting adding 3 = 13
For mid day in June, add 4 = 17
For an open landscape, subtract 2 = 15
The numbers are EV or Exposure value numbers. EV 15 is 1/125 at f16 which is what sunny 16 recommends for these conditions
Steve.
That's modern camera of the 80's. More modern cameras do have shutter speed of 1/100 as they are in 1/3 stop increments.
Clear sunny day with scattered clouds, about a needle's width above EV 15 on my LunaSix.
Yesterday was an uncommonly clear day without a single cloud. EV 15 on the nose.
Indeed, the autumn is so dark people need some medication...I am actually not originally from Finland, so it doesn´t work for me, I try practicing long exposure skills instead..
It´s a shame I don not own a good exposure meter, cause with sunny f/16 I tend to get a bit too low a shadow density. I prefer sunny f/11 in summer and even f/8 in autumn without snow. But OTOH who knows how accurate is my shutter speed.
The grand majority of meters are probably very close to right.
on the other hand ,apeture settings are usually very accurate and consistent+-0.1 stops.if you can measure your shutter speedsand trust your aperture settings.
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