Suggestions requested on Hasselblad 503 CX vs 500 C/M

I have the opportunity to buy an Hasselblad kit from an old camera collector. He has a visually mint 503 cx (1989 from serial numbers), a visually mint 500 cm (1972), the 80mm 2,8 C T*, two 150mm f4 C T* Sonnar, one 250mm 5,6 C Sonnar chrome, one 40mm f4 with case and shade, one 50mm actually being serviced for a mounting light defect.
I'd like to take one body, 80, 150 and 250. The 503 has the Acutematte screen without split focusing aid, but I could place it on the 500 CM as well.
My practical use: family photography (kids) and portraiture, sometimes landscapes, but I'm afraid that I'd prefer to the hassy my Mamiya Universal 23 with it's spectacular 50mm on 6x9.
Prices: 503 and A12 + Acutematte Euro 790, 500 CM + A12 + 80mm Euro 790, sonnar 150 mint euro 300, slightly used euro 230, sonnar 250 euro 190, 40mm mint euro 600.
The questions: 503 or 500 cm? get now 80 C, 150 C and 250 C or get 80 only and wait for any CF lens? Acutematte without the split imaging or a regular hassy splitted screen? (I'd prefer the split focusing) What about prices? The seller offers 6 months warranty on everything or money back. All is local and I've already "touched" everything.
In your suggestions consider that I have also:
Mamiya 6 with 50, 80 and 150
Mamiya Universal (6x9) with 50, 65, 100
Pentacon six with 50, 80, 180 sonnar
Rolleiflex 3,5F Planar and Xenotar
Agfa SuperIsolette
more 150-200 Kg of assorted folding cameras 6x6 and 6x9
Thanks for all suggestions
Paolo

I have the 503 CX and I recommend it because it is a newer model. Yes it has sensors to read flash reflections off the film, but since I very really use my strobes, I do not have the equipment to utilize the feature. The selection of 80mm, 150mm and 250mm is good. I prefer the CF and later over the C lenses, although I have a 500mm C lens because the price was so good that I could not pass it up.

Thanks Sirius,
newer=better was also my first thought, 503 is priced 240 euro more than the 500 cm; do you think it's a motivated difference or is too much?

Sirius Glass said:

I have the 503 CX and I recommend it because it is a newer model. Yes it has sensors to read flash reflections off the film, but since I very really use my strobes, I do not have the equipment to utilize the feature. The selection of 80mm, 150mm and 250mm is good. I prefer the CF and later over the C lenses, although I have a 500mm C lens because the price was so good that I could not pass it up.

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Likewise, i have a 503CX, 40mm CT*, 50mm CF, 80mm CT*, 100mm CF, 150mm CF and 250mm CF.

I'd recommend the 503 and the CF lenses if you can reach them.

Mike

I would recommend getting the CX, but do a price comparison at www.keh.com for the equipment you are considering.

The CF and later lenses almost all use the B60 filter [not the 40mm, 350mm(?), 500mm] so that one set of filters will work for all the lenses. The C lenses use the B50 filters which are harder to find now. There are some problems getting springs for the C lenses now. Also the CF and later lenses are easier to use. So I recommend the CF and later lenses even though they are somewhat pricier.

I own the following CF lenses: 38mm [SWC], 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm and 250mm. I also own the 30mm [Fisheye] and 500mm C lenses, only because the prices were so damn good that I could not pass them up, but they were both in excellent condition and more than half the price of the CF lenses.

Feel free to ask all the questions you want.

best lens for portraits? 150, 180 or 250? I love my 180f2,8 sonnar (P Six) as focal lenght, but never used anything longer on MF.

I do not do portraits usually, however I have heard that the 180mm lens is a better portrait lens.

The 100mm lens was designed for moon landing for NASA and it is very sharp. Sharper than the 80mm and some say too sharp to take portraits of woman. When the focal length is right for the situation, I prefer it to the 80mm.

The Acute-Matte screen is amazing, alone these bring 300 €. You don't need the split image. You will find ttl otf flash great, get the newer body.

Ok, I'll get the 503. I'm in doubt if buying only the 80 and save for CF lenses or take also a 150 or 250. Maybe I could take the 250 that is only 190 euro and is a good lenght for portraiture and wait for some cf lens. Do I need a dedicated flash to use properly the ttl capability?

Thanks mshchem,
the screen was another doubt as on my rolleys I much prefer the split image, maybe because not so bright...

I have an Accumat D screen with cross hairs which I use to line up verticals or the horizon.

The only difference between the 500 C/M and the 503CX is that the 503 has TTL flash capabilities and some better flocking inside. If you are not using the TTL features you are over paying for essentially a 500C/M.

1988-1994 503 CX In addition to the 500 C/M. With TTL-OTF flash system. New Palpas coating in the body to reduce flare.

Check out this website for a complete comparison of Blad cameras. http://hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx

If I were going to spring for a 503 I would get the CW not the CX.

I use the 50, 80, 150 and 250 lenses.

Eric

Eric Rose said:

If I were going to spring for a 503 I would get the CW not the CX

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Or the 501CM instead if you don't need the motor wind and TTL flash metering capabilities of the 503CW.

Both the 501CM and the 503CW also benefit from having the newer gliding mirror, which means you get no viewfinder image cutoff with longer lenses.

bunip said:

best lens for portraits? 150, 180 or 250?

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Focal length preferences aside, the 180mm is the best of those three in terms of optical quality.

The 120mm Makro-Planar also makes a fantastic portrait lens.

Brought home the 503cx with a12 and sonnar 250 C, leather strap, lenshood, bayonet to threaded adapter, two tiffen filters, the acute-matte and the split image screen (just in case...), lens and body caps. Now I’ll look for some CF lens at a good price... and the instructions manual.
thanks to everyone for the valuable suggestions.

For the uses you stated in post1, you may have bought the wrong lens. You’ll likely find the 250 too confining to use and too heavy to use comfortably. You might do better with the 80 and 150.

The 150 has been the industry standard for professional portrait photographers. The equivalent FL in 35mm terms I believe is 96mm. I have both the 150 and 250. The 250 for 95% of portrait needs is to long imho.

Have fun lens shopping! I still use the old silver 80 and 50mm lenses. Beautiful rendering and sharpness. You will have a lot of fun with you new system.

Eric

As it’s a local purchase I can always bring back the 250 and pick up one of the two 150 he has to sell, one mint and the other in user status. I bought this one because I already have the sonnar 180 for the P six and the mamiya 6 150, so I’d like to try something longer than 150.
My favourite 35mm portrait lenses are the nikkor 180 f2,8 and 300’ even if I own the 105DC f2
I think my next could be something around 100mm CF

bunip said:

I think my next could be something around 100mm CF

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You wouldn't regret the choice. The 100mm Planar is an extremely high performing lens; one of the best ever made for the Hasselblad 6x6 format.

Sirius Glass said:

The 100mm lens was designed for moon landing for NASA and it is very sharp. Sharper than the 80mm and some say too sharp to take portraits of woman.

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I've used a Softar l on the 80mm. You may need the Softar ll on the 100mm.

Alan Gales said:

I've used a Softar l on the 80mm. You may need the Softar ll on the 100mm.

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Or take a stocking and fold it over as a diffuser. You may need to use a cigarette to burn holes for the eyes.

I use the 250mm quite often. Since I do not take portraits, I rarely use the 150mm lens.

Sirius Glass said:

Or take a stocking and fold it over as a diffuser. You may need to use a cigarette to burn holes for the eyes.

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Wow! I didn't know that Zeiss made stockings!