Acros II is fine as a b&w film but the worst thing is that you can't use the Ilford wash method with it. The pink dye takes much longer and more water changes to completely remove. Even after 15 minutes of soaking, agitating and changing several times, I can sometimes see a pink color cast when compared to other film.
aparat, when are you coming out with your curve generating app for us?
I think TMY-2 is an absolutely fantastic film - best I've ever used.
Until Plus-X was discontinued, I used to complement TMY-2 with Plus-X, to get two different looks, but relatively similar grain.
I've been working with TMX to serve as a slower speed complement to TMY-2. I like it, it has some practical advantages in a two film approach, but I also miss Plus-X.
Ilford FP4+ is another possible alternative, and is a fine film in its own, but I liked Plus-X better.
Another possibility is that you are under-replenishing your working solution. Xtol-R activity level and characteristics must be maintained by varying the replenishment volume. I've been struggling with Xtol-R for a long time. Until one day I gave up and purchased a box of Ilford control strips, measured their densities using ID-11 stock using Ilford instructions as a yardstick, and then adjusted my Xtol-R activity to match them, and the disparities have disappeared.One possibility is that replenished XTOL just doesn't produce full speed with this film. I have seen this being the case with a few other films, where stock XTOL and stock D-76 obtained more shadow detail than XTOL-R.
Could you elaborate on this? Did you end up using more than the 70ml per film of stock solution added to the old developer?Until one day I gave up and purchased a box of Ilford control strips, measured their densities using ID-11 stock using Ilford instructions as a yardstick, and then adjusted my Xtol-R activity to match them, and the disparities have disappeared.
Could you elaborate on this? Did you end up using more than the 70ml per film of stock solution added to the old developer?
Yes, I thought of this, too. It's a very good observation regarding replenishing XTOL. In fact, prior to running these tests, I did a pretty thorough test of replenished XTOL, and it fully stabilized after about the equivalent of twenty 36-exposure films. It was pretty stable after about ten, but it became solid after about twenty. Here are the plots of four consecutive developments showing very good consistency. I have since settled on 90 ml of replenishment per roll of film (or equivalent). I described it in more detail in this thread. I have so far learned to live with the workflow of XTOL-R because it can produce very nice results with some of my favorite films. It's not a magic developer, but it can be dependable, at least in my experience.Another possibility is that you are under-replenishing your working solution. Xtol-R activity level and characteristics must be maintained by varying the replenishment volume. I've been struggling with Xtol-R for a long time. Until one day I gave up and purchased a box of Ilford control strips, measured their densities using ID-11 stock using Ilford instructions as a yardstick, and then adjusted my Xtol-R activity to match them, and the disparities have disappeared.
I am not saying this is what's happening here. I am saying it's a possibility.
You are, of course, correct. I compared XTOL-R to XTOL in that thread I linked, and XTOL-R consistently gives slightly less film speed, but it, in my experience, it is stable and has the acceptable activity level for my needs. As you will see later in this thread, other tgrain films developed in the same tank had very good performance with regard to film speed.@aparat What you've described is stability, but I have also pointed out at the activity level. How do you know whether your Xtol-R stabilized at the same activity level as Kodak intended? What if your stable solution contains too much byproduct and it hampers shadow development? Again, I am not criticizing your methods, just trying to troubleshoot the Acros speed drop you've observed.
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