No, there's nothing wrong with the Ilford data sheets. The problem is just with the tiny size of the characteristic curves printed in them, often with the extremes lopped off and not enough grid lines. These published curves can tell you quite a bit, but one has to know how to properly read them, or else understand what is left out from them. Yes, Pan F+ has lovely edge definition, especially in pyro. I don't know much about Wales; but I presume it's often overcast or foggy much like our coast here, and under those conditions Pan F can be a wonderful performer. It's dynamic range is basically about the same as color slide film. But up in our mountains here, which reach over 14,000 ft in altitude, and out in the deserts, scene contrast range can be extreme, and a difficult challenge even for FP4. Likewise, our redwood forests here can go from "natural softbox" lighting when the fog is in, then rapidly up to 12 stops of range once the sun breaks out later in the day.
It not just a problem per shadow detail. A very long toe film like Pan F simply doesn't have much gradation down there. It just goes bland. Only a steeper toed film will deliver a nice drop off the cliff into graphic bold blackness, if that's what you're after. What Pan F does is render a wonderful silvery quality to the margins of its very limited straight line. It's only good for about a 4 stop range before things start looking off, even souped in pyro.
We also have a problem with incessant wind most of the year along the coast. And when the wind starts up on high mountain passes, even a heavy tripod can picked up and tossed. So if the only option left is to hand shoot the image with my 6X9 RF, I'm going to want a faster film anyway, specifically either TMX100 or TMY400.
No, that's entirely incorrect. Slow speed films can be engineered for a wide contrast range. Efke 25 was an example of that. And Tri-X and HP5 are medium toe films not really as fast as their marketing speed, and certainly won't handle anywhere near the contrast range as the old 200's like Super-XX or Bergger 200, or even TMax 100. Speed and scale are not generically interlocked. I don't like the term
"latitude", because that can imply simply bagging "something" way down there, but not necessarily of much usable quality.
Yes, Pan F+ has lovely edge definition, especially in pyro. I don't know much about Wales; but I presume it's often overcast or foggy much like our coast here, and under those conditions Pan F can be a wonderful performer. It's dynamic range is basically about the same as color slide film. But up in our mountains here, which reach over 14,000 ft in altitude, and out in the deserts, scene contrast range can be extreme, and a difficult challenge even for FP4.
Mark -The Fuji 6X9 RF's are even easier for me to handhold than my Nikon, though I shoot on tripod whenever possible. So I generally load them with TMX100 instead of TMY400. Either speed will render a very nice 16X20 print, but the grain will be almost invisible with the 100 speed version. Pan F has a different look - more a blended "watercolor grain" effect, yet with excellent edge acutance. TMax 100 is capable of extreme detail, but need a little more grain growth than PMK pyro supplies, so I use a different developer for it. I've only seen pictures and travel documentaries of Wales and Scotland; but much of that, and also the coast of Ireland resembles our Marin County right across the Bay. Pt. Reyes Natl Seashore is the second foggiest place in the US; but all that fog reaches my place here along the Bay, and all the wind too. It's rare for a midsummer day to get above 60F. But just 15 miles inland, behind the first range of hills, it can be 50 degrees F hotter in summer. It's all about microclimates.
Augustus - I'm not a film chemist, but I certainly understand that grain growth options have come a long ways, and your blanket generalization of it simplistic at best. T-grain technology, for example, allowed for more lumen capture area at smaller and more consistent grain size, although the early version of 400 TMax could be a little bit clumpy. Efke 25 was even a little slower than Pan F, but not only had far greater dynamic range, but even greater detail capacity. In that case, by limiting the red sensitiivity, and going orthopan, they minimized the light scatter somewhat. Too bad their anti-halation layer wasn't very good - had to be very careful loading those rolls in the shade.
Pan F has just about the worst S-curve of any film today I can think of, but can be outright wonderful in falling snow or rain, in fog, or other low contrast settings.
Yes, it's true. But it only allows you about one extra stop of good highlight reproduction, so it still won't allow good capture of high contrast scenes. I would also add, that if you do that, you want to rate Pan F at 25 to give the shadow values more exposure. You also want a different dilution of PMK pyro : 1:1 to 100 (A+B+water), rather than the typical 1:2:100. The third tweak is to add a tiny amount of 1% EDTA to minimize streaking.
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