What did you fix today? (part 2)

Daire Quinlan · Mar 21, 2014

Two of them yes. Unfortunately it was the second two :-D The 1st got used as a parts cam and is in the process of getting turned into a weird bessa-l like frankencamera

Newt_on_Swings · Mar 21, 2014

Ah I forgot to include the only picture I took of the repair. Maybe it may help someone in the future.

Regular Rod · Mar 22, 2014

Made a quick, temporary lens panel for my Whole Plate Kodak Model B. I haven't decided which lens to drill the hole for yet...

RR

John_Nikon_F · Apr 21, 2014

Received a Nikkormat FT3 in the mail today. Noticed that the index on the frame counter had rotated out of place and was covering the numbers. Off came the top, out came the 1.5mm slotted screwdriver. Realigned the index, then tightened the screw down. Reassembled the camera and tested it. Meter's accurate, but slightly erratic, if you move the shutter speed ring at all. Adjusting the aperture doesn't cause the needle to twitch. So, sending that one in eventually. It's not to the point where the meter is unuseable.

-J

PPPPPP42 · Apr 22, 2014

Took apart a Pentax M50mm F1.7 to get rid of a few larger than acceptable chunks of dust inside and even reassembled it after.
Took the base plate off my recently received Pentax MX to tweak a metal part so the half press turns the light meter on correctly. Camera is still going in for a much needed CLA.
Took the ring around the shutter button and mode selector dial off my Pentax Super Program to spray electronics cleaner into the shutter button assembly and work it around till both the half press and shutter release were 100% reliable again. This one already had a CLA so its annoying the button was acting up again. One of that cameras weak spots.

dehk · Apr 22, 2014

Minolta XE

Kawaiithulhu · Apr 23, 2014

Acquired an old 5x7. I fixed the cobwebs that were in the main body cavity

shutterfinger · Apr 29, 2014

Two days ago: Super Graphic from the first production run. It had blown up electronics.
Before: After:

1 day ago the rangefinder;

Today a Graphic 1000 shutter.

All aspects of the camera and shutter now function as they did the day they left the factory.

Fixcinater · Apr 29, 2014

A Pax 35, got the shutter functioning by itself but it still needs the shutter button linkage tuned in to make it work as normal. Also, the RF image doesn't move with focus so I'll have to pull the top off and see what's up with that.

Such a cute little camera.

Newt_on_Swings · Sep 9, 2014

Replaced the foam on the rear of my wista sp when I was checking for light leaks. It was pretty much breaking down on contact. Hopefully that solves the issue my camera was having when the micro adjustments on the back were used. I removed and checked the bellows with a small led in the bathroom and all was well so hopefully it was this foam that was causing it. Also went ahead and replaced a tiny 3mm strip of foam where the film holder lies. The rest of the seals were felt that was in very good condition so I did not touch it.

Also took apart and cleaned my Schneider 60mm f4 apo makro lens, that had dust between the cells. I have used this on extension ring in the past for 35mm, but I mounted it on the wista and works for very close up images. It does focus at a normal range, but the image circle is very small, i think the tech manual said 60mm. using it for macro the image circle becomes much greater so I have enough coverage thats even. I will work up a method to get a more secure mount for it though.

miha · Sep 30, 2014

The rangefinder on my beloved Olympus XA.

The camera has been serviced some time ago as the meter began to show different values in the viewfinder to those selected by the camera (quite common I hear) but they put the rangefinder slightly out of alignment while fixing the meter. It was an easy fix.

Xmas · Sep 30, 2014

Refoamed both my Konica TCs.

Alas

one intermittently jams its double exposure interlock
the other does not hold its trapped needle auto exposure properly, but ok in manual of course

note one was a parts TC but got both to work ok the last set of faults nearly a decade ago.

The 40mm /1.8 is a nice fast and compact wide for a SLR.

Previous task was fixing a FM shutter capping gave up for the moment as the shutter module needs to come out and dipped in Zippo, it seems to have injested old foam onto its rail system.

Do that over Xmas holidays...
.

M Carter · Oct 6, 2014

Still on my Mionlta HiMatic 7s mission.

Opened the lens assembly of one that was having intermittent shutter freezes and a bad lens wobble. Found a mounting screw rolling about in the lens barrel (not in a space that could have hit glass or the helicoid, but yeah, there's your wobble). Cleaned the shutter & iris with 90% iso (all I had handy... I like coleman fuel for this but the stuff is so explosive). Worked like a charm though, the usual "pop" after a bit of a bath as the shutter snaps closed again (amazing how pleasing that is!). Iris now smooth to boot. Put it all back together and the lens has very minimal play. The last bit is likely the big shutter retaining ring at the rear... but that is huge, gory surgery to get to.

My $15 eBay lens spanner worked like a champ, very pleased with it.

Funny, there are dozens of "loose lens" and stuck shutter posts on google for this camera, with dozens of people saying it's one of the toughest nightmare lenses to work on. One retaining ring and three screws? I found it easy and all the parts make sense for reassembly.

Fixcinater · Oct 13, 2014

Bought a Canon 7 on eBay described as shutter not working, popped off the bottom cover, 5 mins of jiggling stuff around later, it's firing off at all speeds.

Will still go through the top cover and clean up all the glass but it's a dang nice camera for $49.

Also fixed up a Yashica Electro GT, shutter was truly inop due to no pad of death, so got that situated and everything cleaned up. Now just need to get a battery in it and make sure all the Electro bits are good. Now I remember why I prefer my Canonet to the Yashicas, even if the Yashica has a better lens...the build on the Yashica does not impress even though it's not specifically poorly constructed.

David A. Goldfarb · Oct 13, 2014

My FD mount adaptation of several years ago for the Medalist Ektar 100mm f:3.5 cracked, so I found an EOS T-mount adapter that fit perfectly in the tube and epoxied it in place, and it's working better than the previous version.

Fixcinater · Oct 31, 2014

Finally got around to figuring out what element was flipped in a Meyer Optik Gorlitz Primoplan 58/1.9. Turns out it's actually a nice lens...resolution falls off fast away from center but it's got a nice look about it. Needs a deep hood, though.

Fixcinater · Oct 31, 2014

David A. Goldfarb said:
My FD mount adaptation of several years ago for the Medalist Ektar 100mm f:3.5 cracked, so I found an EOS T-mount adapter that fit perfectly in the tube and epoxied it in place, and it's working better than the previous version.

View attachment 96031

Looks like a nice adaptation. Does this Ektar hold up to it's name?

John_Nikon_F · Nov 9, 2014

24/2.8 AI Nikkor that was in pieces... Needs a rear element, but it's back together, aperture ring works properly, focusing ring is smooth, etc... Got a bunch more Nikkors to play around with.

-J

Ian Grant · Nov 9, 2014

Found I had a brass flange that would fit so made a lens board so I can use my 17" f5.6 telephoto on a Speed Graphic, the lens itself is in excellent condition optically, coated,it's ex-Military so probably made by Ross. Next step is to add an aperture scale, oh and calculate the apertures . . . . . . .

It's a great lens to focus very easy, a nice bright image even with a plain screen.

Ian

Sirius Glass · Dec 7, 2014

Five years ago I purchased a JOBO CPP2 processor from an APUG member. When it was shipped the shipper transported the processor with the heavy end down instead of keeping the machine flat and level. As a result the drain hose, which is a plastic tube with a spiral wire used to hold the shape, was crushed nearly flat. I had tried in the past to restore its shape without success. I asked Dave Smith, Joboman, how hard it was to replace. He told me that it was a difficult job and explained how to restore its shape.

Today I got the hose back to a round cross section. This week I will get more hose and a irrigation barb to extend the hose into the sink as Dave Smith suggested.

klop · Dec 16, 2014

Yashica Electro 35 GS ---- P.O.D.

trythis · Feb 2, 2015

Just fixed a Leica IIIC that I was given. I rarely shoot leica's (also given an M3 with goggled 35) due the the value and fear of losing them, but the IIIc is so small that it wont seem ostentatious and unlikely to attract attention. I only have an Elmar 3.5 which is fine, I cant wait to shoot it. The speeds were way off especially on the low end.

Also replaced a battery door and film door on my Nikon N80. SO happy to have that back in working order.

Jeff Bradford · Feb 3, 2015

I took apart my Canonet QL17 today. The shutter button was stubborn and one of the optics in the rangefinder was rattling around loose. Its easy enough to take apart, but figuring out where the optic went took quite a while. This was my father's camera. He bought it in Japan on his way home from Viet Nam. Every picture taken of us as kids came from this camera, so I can't ever get rid of it. Dad says its a "Tri-X eating MONSTER!". Okay Pop. Next roll of Tri-X goes in the Canonet.

Mr_Flibble · Feb 3, 2015

unstickied a Synchro 400 shutter on a Kodak Signet 40.
reinstalling the aperture blades was the biggest nightmare...only took about a 100 attempts to get it right.

Newt_on_Swings · Feb 7, 2015

Replaced the shock cords on the tent poles of an old Harrison film tent. New cord was $3, I bought 1.5mm thick cord as a replacement. One end was stuck pretty well. I had to cut a section from a metal clothes hanger to act as a ram rod. A good tap with a hammer and the knotted end popped out. Then treading and a few knots made the poles useable again.

What did you fix today? (part 2)

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