TriX movie film I suspect would be 400
The 7266 Tr-X reversal film is ISO 200 for daylight, 160 for tungsten.
Of course, the label could have absolutely nothing to do with the contents.
Are you sure it is film in there? Can you develop an unexposed piece to check for edge markings?
At a camera show a year ago, I got a bulk film loader full of what a note in pen on the loader called "Tri-X." But next to that is written "200/125" and above this, in pencil, is written "320" and "(400)"
So what speed is this film? Did Kodak ever make a version of 35mm Tri-X that was some speed other than 400? I got this last year at the 2024 Photo Historical Society of New England camera show, (and it must have been on their dollar table, because I already had three bulk loaders and wouldn't have bought another one for anything more than that).
But I'm assuming this film is still good, and I'm wondering if it really has a different speed (or if maybe this loader was owned by a camera club, and different people chose to use different speeds).
Here's a link to a photo of the label on the loader. (I described it above, because some people don't like to open links from strangers.)
BTW, the camera show i went to happens once a year and the 2025 show is NEXT SATURDAY. So if you live within driving distance of greater Boston and you like photography bargains, you should check it out. https://phsne.org/photographica/
Pull out 8-12 inches of film, put it on a reel, rinse well and then stick it in fixer until it clears. Wash briefly, then look at the edges. It should tell you something about what flavor of film this is.
Needs to be developed before being fixed or it'll just be clear.
Best idea is expose a strip at 25, 50, 100, 200, develop as though it's trix. See what looks best. It'll probably all look terrible. TriX ages like a full diaper.
Now I have to go try this. I thought the edge markings showed up after just fixing. Interesting.
Now I have to go try this. I thought the edge markings showed up after just fixing. Interesting.
The edge markings are written on the film with light and so show up in developer. Very old film can have them somewhat faded. I have an old roll of PanF 50 that has nearly invisible numbers.
Needs to be developed before being fixed or it'll just be clear.
Best idea is expose a strip at 25, 50, 100, 200, develop as though it's trix. See what looks best. It'll probably all look terrible. TriX ages like a full diaper.
Don and I actually seem to be on a roll and are agreeing on things - I knew he would come around
I have had very good luck with old Tri-X - as old as the late 1970s - using standing development. There is some fog, but not enough to get in the way of a good print.
stick it in fixer until it clears. Wash briefly, then look at the edges.
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