Which film would you shoot at the South Pole?

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soboyle

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I'm visiting the South Pole this November for one week with the NSF's antarctic artist and writers program. As a nod to the early explorers that journeyed (and photographed) there in the early 20th century, I'm bringing a Voitlander Bessa II camera with me with about 5 rolls of 120 film. I shot film from the late 70's till 2000 but haven't since then, so need advice on a 120 B&W film to shoot in this environment. Highest priorities are wide latitude, low ISO because I'm limited with the Bessa II shutter top speeds to about 1/400, and a film that hopefully doesn't shatter at -40 degrees!
Films I'm considering are Ilford Pan F 50 ISO, TMax 100, maybe digging up some Acros 100?

Any recommendations on which film, and the development I should use?
 

bsdunek

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I would think the Pan F or FP-4 would be good choices. Be sure to take yellow. and red or orange filters. That will cut down the light when necessary and may enhance the tones. Don't know what the sky is like there - clouds? Also, I think you need more than five rolls - that's only 60 exposures. I'd use that up before the first day is done. Sounds like a great trip - have fun and show us your photos when you return.
 
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soboyle

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Thanks, Much of my work there will be digital, the film will be used occasionally, but I take your point, I'll bring more than 5 rolls. FP-4 could be a good choice.

I would think the Pan F or FP-4 would be good choices. Be sure to take yellow. and red or orange filters. That will cut down the light when necessary and may enhance the tones. Don't know what the sky is like there - clouds? Also, I think you need more than five rolls - that's only 60 exposures. I'd use that up before the first day is done. Sounds like a great trip - have fun and show us your photos when you return.
 

Paul Howell

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I would take Iford PF 4, rate it normal ISO, the issue with Tmax 100 is that easy to block the highlights, shooting in the snow and ice would not want to take the chance.
 

jim appleyard

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I'd go FP-4. More latitude than Pan-F (although that's a great film, too) and I'd soup in Rodinal 1+100, D-76, 1+3; something well diluted. Filters are a good choice.
 
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soboyle

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FP-4, with 4 votes, seems to be the lead choice up to this point. Appreciate the recommendations. I'll be looking for detailed development guidance when I return.
 

jim10219

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I'd try to figure out a way to keep that camera warm. Maybe even experiment with it in some cold environments first. You'll likely run into a couple of issues due to the cold that you wouldn't have to worry about normally. First, the bellows will be cold and much more fragile. Make sure they're able to contract and expand in that cold of a temperature without tearing and ruining the camera. Second, the lubricants in the shutter will thicken if they weren't replaced with special lubricants. They may prevent the camera from working at all, or may just slow the speeds down. And I'm sure there are a lot of other areas for things to go wrong. That's why I'd give it some test runs first, and probably consider bringing a newer camera as a spare. You can still maintain an older look by using an older lens or and older formulation film, even with a newer camera body.
 

Ko.Fe.

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1/400 and ISO400 is f16 with S16. No? And on II it goes down to f22.
Add filter and it is down to 1/200, good for handheld.
Check if shutter works by keeping it in the freezer.
Use ziplock to bring it inside.
I have 35 film roll broke after camera was on me for couple of hours outside at -28C. But only once.
 

warden

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1/400 and ISO400 is f16 with S16. No? And on II it goes down to f22.
Add filter and it is down to 1/200, good for handheld.
Check if shutter works by keeping it in the freezer.
Use ziplock to bring it inside.
I have 35 film roll broke after camera was on me for couple of hours outside at -28C. But only once.

Yeah, I'd probably go for a filter and TMax400, and hand hold. If I were to be using a tripod I'd use TMax100 or FP4.
 

miha

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How is recent Kodak 120 film, free from defects?
 

AndyH

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I'm really sorry to have to say this. No, seriously, I don't want to. But my children, who've suffered through many years of Dad jokes, would kill me if I didn't answer the question.

What kind of film would you shoot at the South Pole?

Pole-aroid, of course.

:redface:
 

MattKing

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T-Max 400 is what I'd take, but that is what I use here.
FP4 is good though.
 
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soboyle

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In fact I am bringing a Polaroid! A Polaroid 250 Land camera, with 6 boxes of the FP-3000B B&W film that have been in the fridge for years. Love that film, esp for scanning the paper negatives.
 

AndyH

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In fact I am bringing a Polaroid! A Polaroid 250 Land camera, with 6 boxes of the FP-3000B B&W film that have been in the fridge for years. Love that film, esp for scanning the paper negatives.

That is seriously great. What little Polaroid peel apart film I have in the freezer is reserved for special and once in a lifetime occasions. If a trip to the Pole doesn't qualify, what would?

Andy
 

wyofilm

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Filters would be great. You might need to give yourself some time to source filters. I think that they are 37mm push-on for the VBII.
 

GLS

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maybe digging up some Acros 100?

This would be my choice, if you can find it.

Acros has virtually no shoulder, and using a compensating developer like Pyrocat-HD gives it even more latitude. I love this film/developer combo, and rate my Acros at EI80 for it.
 
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soboyle

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It's out there but expensive, over $11 a roll.

This would be my choice, if you can find it.

Acros has virtually no shoulder, and using a compensating developer like Pyrocat-HD gives it even more latitude. I love this film/developer combo, and rate my Acros at EI80 for it.
 

reddesert

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In southern summer the weather at the Pole will likely be very bright and clear. (I've never been, but I know a lot of people who have been, and it's clear in every picture.) The South Pole is very high elevation, about 9300 fit, and very dry. Wind circulation around Antarctica and the elevation of the interior keep moisture away.

You may wish to bring a polarizer and red, orange, yellow filters to help tame the sunlight and stronger blue/UV given the elevation, unless of course you are interested in emulating the orthochromatic look of older films.

In addition to all the issues about camera operation mentioned earlier, you should be careful about static discharge on the film, since it's so cold and dry. Static discharge looks like lightning bolts on the negative, more or less. Avoid winding the film too quickly, try to ground yourself periodically to avoid building up charge, etc.

The Polaroid 250 is a packfilm camera that has a separate battery, not one in the pack, right? That's good since you may need to warm the battery up.

If you haven't already read it, read the Kodak technical guide to arctic photography: https://125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak/c9.pdf
 
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soboyle

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Thanks, I hadn't seen the Kodak Arctic Photography guide.
Correct, the Polaroid 250 has a separate battery, and I've changed the battery holder to use (3) AAA instead of the non-standard 4.5 volt original battery.
I'm currently looking for the push on type filters that the Bessa II takes, they seem pretty rare.

In southern summer the weather at the Pole will likely be very bright and clear. (I've never been, but I know a lot of people who have been, and it's clear in every picture.) The South Pole is very high elevation, about 9300 fit, and very dry. Wind circulation around Antarctica and the elevation of the interior keep moisture away.

You may wish to bring a polarizer and red, orange, yellow filters to help tame the sunlight and stronger blue/UV given the elevation, unless of course you are interested in emulating the orthochromatic look of older films.

In addition to all the issues about camera operation mentioned earlier, you should be careful about static discharge on the film, since it's so cold and dry. Static discharge looks like lightning bolts on the negative, more or less. Avoid winding the film too quickly, try to ground yourself periodically to avoid building up charge, etc.

The Polaroid 250 is a packfilm camera that has a separate battery, not one in the pack, right? That's good since you may need to warm the battery up.

If you haven't already read it, read the Kodak technical guide to arctic photography: https://125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak/c9.pdf
 

warden

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How is recent Kodak 120 film, free from defects?

I can't speak for everyone but my experience has been a happy one and if I were going to the Pole I'd have no hesitation to bring Kodak along for the ride, assuming it's fresh film.
 

reddesert

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And, although it's incredibly bright outside at the Pole, you'll be inside a lot - I don't know what kind of photography you prefer, but if you're interested in any interiors or environmental portraiture, there's probably a lot of mixed and inadequate lighting, typical of scientific labs.

If you haven't read it, I recommend reading Sara Wheeler's Terra Incognita: https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/189552/terra-incognita-by-sara-wheeler/
Also, the NSF has presumably told you what to prepare and expect, but in addition there are a number of blog and diary entries written by people going to the Pole, that describe the process and the various hangups that can occur and things to prepare for (for example, you may get an unanticipated several days' layover in Christchurch - or not! Or a tour of the backstreets of McMurdo. And so on.)
 

warden

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I'm visiting the South Pole this November for one week with the NSF's antarctic artist and writers program. ....

I neglected to mention my jealousy. What an opportunity. Congratulations! Buy more film. Bracket like you don't know what you're doing. Share your pics.
 
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