I have a nicely working Ercona with a Tessar 105/ 3.5 and Tempor shutter. I am in need of a hood and probably a filters. It is not a threaded lens though so what can I do/ use?

Thanks.

There are some threads in the regular forums that might be useful ...
Thread One
Thread Two
Filters for Zeiss Ikonta']Thread Three[/URL]

Scattered in a couple of my posts in those threads are links to my Ercona page on PBase that has some pictures of what I've done. I am assuming the I and the II are mostly similar, I've never found a manual for either. Someone pointed me to a site of David Reichert that has a manual for a Zeiss Ikonta 523/2 which is very similar as far as loading and using, though I don't think the filter setup matches. 37mm push-on hoods fit the Voitländer Bessa II which is a serious collector item, and the hoods, at least the official Voitländer items, are typically priced like they are made of gold.

Hmm the thread links seem to have merged into the bit blender and I am unable to edit the message.

OK let's try in small steps .... One Thread

Hmmm these groups seem to have some problems.

One more try here for a forum thread from back aways.

And another thread to look at.

Searching for:
filter (or hood) 37 slip on
on Ebay gives many. And not all at a high price.
I bought mine for about a year ago. The filters work all right. But the hood may blow off in strong wind! Especially if I put it on top of the filter.

Thanks so much for the information! I will look for them.

With these slip on filters and hoods, I use the external diameter correct?

derelict said:

With these slip on filters and hoods, I use the external diameter correct?

Click to expand...

Correct.

Umm -- I have an Ercona II -- so all bets may be off, but 37mm filters slip into a groove in the front of the lens barrel. The outside of the barrel is about 40.3mm.


A Zeiss 37mm yellow filter installed:

(note it does not go over the knurling)

Well their are exceptions and yours is one DW and thanks for the example. I was referring to lens with the smooth barrels.

OOPs, did not read the posts completely, half asleep.

When I get home, I will check to see if I have a smooth barrel or not.

I have one other question. I ran my first roll of 120 through it this weekend. I know that I double exposed the first 6x9 frame as I did not wind it enough to move the next frame into position. For every subsequent frame, I would fire the shutter, crank once then slide the window cover open a bit so that I could wind until the next frame number was displayed. Am I introducing a light leak that will have ruined the frames on this roll?

Ah! The Ercona II has double exposure prevention -- maybe the only "feature" added over the I! But in my experience, the red window being opened to wind will not be a problem. I wouldn't let it sit in direct sun for an hour with the flap open, but for a few seconds, perhaps positioned in the shadow of your body, I would not expect a problem. Years back checking for a light leak in another folder, one of my tests was exposing the back area to full sun with the flap open, just to see what would happen, and five minutes with 400 film didn't show anything from the window area. (I wouldn't plan to count on that, but it was OK once!)

I have heard of cameras where there were alternate paths for light to bounce around behind the pressure plate and reflect to the emulsion side which caused problems, as opposed to what hit the backing paper, but that's pretty rare and unusual, I think.

Fantastic. Thanks for the info. I know that I double exposed the first frame. It will not allow the shutter to reset until wound but I discovered that a turn of the winder until red is showing on the top allows the shutter to cock but does not mean that the frame is completely on the spindle yet. Should be interesting when I get it developed.

derelict said:

Fantastic. Thanks for the info. I know that I double exposed the first frame. It will not allow the shutter to reset until wound but I discovered that a turn of the winder until red is showing on the top allows the shutter to cock but does not mean that the frame is completely on the spindle yet. Should be interesting when I get it developed.

Click to expand...

Right! And it is also worth figuring out how to fire the shutter manually when it is locked ( you need to reach around to the front on the left to trigger it ) in case you forget to cock the shutter and it locks before making the exposure.