110/16mm Camera Image Quality

[Minox]

Welcome to the thread & great pictures from the Kiev!

The variety of images from submini cameras never ceases to amaze.

Kodak Ektramax
Orca 110, Pyrocat-HD 11'
View attachment 337336

Spots are iron oxide ?

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Spots are iron oxide ?

Not sure, but it is the 2nd roll of spotted Orca from a pyro developer, so the two likely aren't compatible.

Edit: this is a negative, so the spots are areas of undeveloped film

 

[Minox]

It happened to my first rolls of Rollei ATP 1.1 (20asa), and it took me a while to realize the myriads of black spots on the negatives were actually iron oxide from tap water. Switched to distilled, the spots went away completely.

 

[Donald Qualls]

You can buy rocket engines at Hobby Lobby.

You can also order them online -- motors and igniters can ship regular USPS from the manufacturer or retailer due to an exemption obtained by Estes and made available for all manufacturers before 1960 (quite reasonable, they're no more hazardous than loaded ammunition, which can also ship unrestricted). You still get four igniters with a three-pack of standard motors, too (or did, last time I bought some around 1996).

 

[Sonynolta User]

Two pics from my first rolls of reloaded Kodak 110 cart with Vision3 50D 16mm film.
From my Pentax 110 auto super with 18mm & 20-40 zoom. Pushed 1 stop in Kodak flexicolor C41 since slow film on the 110 is 100 asa. Seems I may have a bit of remjet spotting which needs better cleaning.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Two pics from my first rolls of reloaded Kodak 110 cart with Vision3 50D 16mm film.
From my Pentax 110 auto super with 18mm & 20-40 zoom. Pushed 1 stop in Kodak flexicolor C41 since slow film on the 110 is 100 asa. Seems I may have a bit of remjet spotting which needs better cleaning.

A superlative example of top 110 gear paired with a modern film emulsion. I've lost a couple 110 reloads recently due to the lack of light tightness in a camera body (not a pentax 110). Was the cassette or camera sealed any more than usual? I've got some un-perfed 50D on hand but the only 110 camera that will handle it is a Canon 110 ED (20).

Major remjet contamination is more 'smudgy' than spotty in my experience but digitization with an infrared channel / Digital ICE would handle the spotting in the first frame quite well.

 

[brbo]

For those of you who can't decide between Canon 110ED and Rollei A110... I've done a side by side test.

It's a tie.

Canon 110ED top, Rollei A110 bottom:


Rollei top, Canon bottom:


Rollei top, Canon bottom:


(unedited and unsharpened, click for full res)


Btw, that Lomo Tiger 200 is a terrific film. Unlike their 100 and 400 CN it must be some of the latest generation Kodak film (Gold 200?).

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Great showcase! Page 60 is quickly reaching peak 110. Remarkably consistent exposures.

The Rollei seems a smidgen wider but the framing is perhaps more accurate with the Canon?

Mamiya 16 'De Luxe'
FPP Sun 1, ECN-2
V800 scan, heavy daylight white balance

 

[Timmyjoe]

I have a very temperamental Canon 110ED. When it works, I absolutely love it. But it keeps dying in the middle of a cartridge of 110. A few years ago a spring mysteriously fell out of the film chamber when I was loading it. Never could figure out where exactly it came from. Camera still worked fine for a few rolls, then started sporadically locking up. Fun camera to use (love the rangefinder focus) but too temperamental to use regularly.

Best,
-Tim

 

[brbo]

The Rollei seems a smidgen wider but the framing is perhaps more accurate with the Canon?

Rollei A110 is slightly but noticeably wider (23 vs. 26mm), viewfinder is much brighter, doesn't have parallax frames for close focusing since it doesn't need them (1m MFD and viewfinder is close to the lens) and is much smaller. Canon has everything you'd want in a proper camera, but is basically the size of a small 35mm p&s.

I was surprised how good the exposure system handled all exposures considering that both were designed for different batteries that we can buy now. Probably helped by ISO200 film shot at 100, but still...

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

I have a very temperamental Canon 110ED. When it works, I absolutely love it. But it keeps dying in the middle of a cartridge of 110. A few years ago a spring mysteriously fell out of the film chamber when I was loading it. Never could figure out where exactly it came from. Camera still worked fine for a few rolls, then started sporadically locking up. Fun camera to use (love the rangefinder focus) but too temperamental to use regularly.

Best,
-Tim

Sounds like a mechanical failure if a spring fell out, but if you come across a 110ED 20 you might give it a whirl. On the outside it is essentially the same as the 110ED, but the shutter and film advance mechanism seem very different. For one, IIRC, the 110ED shutter won't fire without a battery while the 110ED 20 will.

Canon has everything you'd want in a proper camera, but is basically the size of a small 35mm p&s.

The ergonomics of the solid 'bar'-style 110 cameras leave much to be desired. The Canon is bulky but doesn't waste much space. The Ektramax is my worst offender: it has a defunct integral flash unit plus the strap loop is on the wrong side of the camera.

Both, however, are capable of properly advancing reloaded 16mm film (perfed+unperfed & perfed for the 110ED & Ektramax respectively) which is one of my main considerations.

After several teardowns and a few feet of wasted film, I've finally modded a Tasco 8000 (w/ 100 & 150mm lenses) to freely advance and cock the shutter regardless of the perforations used (it involved a toothpick). The camera is a huge pain in the ass to be sure, but does offer rudimentary interchangeable lenses and an opportunity for some stupid macro tricks.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Sounds like a mechanical failure if a spring fell out, but if you come across a 110ED 20 you might give it a whirl. On the outside it is essentially the same as the 110ED, but the shutter and film advance mechanism seem very different. For one, IIRC, the 110ED shutter won't fire without a battery while the 110ED 20 will.



The ergonomics of the solid 'bar'-style 110 cameras leave much to be desired. The Canon is bulky but doesn't waste much space. The Ektramax is my worst offender: it has a defunct integral flash unit plus the strap loop is on the wrong side of the camera.

Both, however, are capable of properly advancing reloaded 16mm film (perfed+unperfed & perfed for the 110ED & Ektramax respectively) which is one of my main considerations.

After several teardowns and a few feet of wasted film, I've finally modded a Tasco 8000 (w/ 100 & 150mm lenses) to freely advance and cock the shutter regardless of the perforations used (it involved a toothpick). The camera is a huge pain in the ass to be sure, but does offer rudimentary interchangeable lenses and an opportunity for some stupid macro tricks.

If you figure out a way to get the Ektramax to use unperfed film I'd love to know. Mine doesn't register right so the perfs show up in the middle of the frames and that is with 110 film. Pretty much makes it useless. The lens is good though so there is that. I'd use it again if I could shoot microfilm in it.

 

[xkaes]

Great shots from subminis should not surprise anyone -- although they might:

http://www.subclub.org/gallery/gallery.htm

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

If you figure out a way to get the Ektramax to use unperfed film I'd love to know. Mine doesn't register right so the perfs show up in the middle of the frames and that is with 110 film. Pretty much makes it useless. The lens is good though so there is that. I'd use it again if I could shoot microfilm in it.

If some tests with the back open are any indication, the ektramax should handle unperfed film if you remove/bend the feeler such that the mechanism always remains in it's 'extended' position. In that state, one full actuation of the advance lever will cock the shutter and transport the film approximately 2/3rds(?) the length of standard 110 frame spacing. Coincidentally, this is similar to the 'fix' I needed to shoot unperfed in my Instamatic 500.

The sprocket feeler appears to be the only sensing mechanism (besides high/low ISO) in the chamber. No cassette or door closure sensing makes things less complicated to sus out, in theory.

Of course if the advance in your copy is already wonky then... YMMV. If it is misaligning 110 frames but the shutter is cocking, it may already be suited to handle unperfed/flipped single-perf stock at the expense of native 110 compatibility. I split the difference in mine by using 16mm single perf and making a blank exposure for the extra advance or use just retail 110 film if I'm feeling fancy.

Mamiya 16 'De Luxe'
FPP Sun 1 @ 1, ECN-2
V800 positive scan, inversion & heavy manual daylight correction

 

[G1DRP]

Minox EC, ADOX HR-50, ADOX HR developer.

 

[xkaes]

Great detail and tonality!!!

Consider adding some of your shots to the GALLERY in the SUBCLUB -- or if you have a website, you can add it to SUBCLUB's LINKS.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Minox EC, ADOX HR-50, ADOX HR developer.

The steering wheel is on the wrong side and the dashboard speedometer, gages and controls are in the middle!

 

[Cholentpot]

Minox EC, ADOX HR-50, ADOX HR developer.

That's clean and sharp.

 

[G1DRP]

The steering wheel is on the wrong side and the dashboard speedometer, gages and controls are in the middle!

No, the steering wheel is on the correct side. I used to have a job where I traveled to mainland Europe I hated changing gear with my right hand and driving on the wrong side of the road. I blame Henry Ford. The vehicle was “J” registration, which means in was registered between August the 1st 1970 and July the 31st 1971.

 

[G1DRP]

Great detail and tonality!!!

Consider adding some of your shots to the GALLERY in the SUBCLUB -- or if you have a website, you can add it to SUBCLUB's LINKS.

Thanks. I’ll sort something out tomorrow. I’ve just started experimenting with the Minolta 16 system.

 

[G1DRP]

Land Rover from view. Minox EC, ADOX HR-50.

 

[Sirius Glass]

No, the steering wheel is on the correct side. I used to have a job where I traveled to mainland Europe I hated changing gear with my right hand and driving on the wrong side of the road. I blame Henry Ford. The vehicle was “J” registration, which means in was registered between August the 1st 1970 and July the 31st 1971.

It has nothing to do with Henry Ford. Prior to the American Revolution, from the first colony, North and South Americans had it correct by staying to the right on the roads.

 

[G1DRP]

It has nothing to do with Henry Ford. Prior to the American Revolution, from the first colony, North and South Americans had it correct by staying to the right on the roads.

I didn’t realise that. The original reason, I believe, was so that you could draw your sword with your right hand, if you were approaching someone aggressive coming towards you. When I was at school, we had to walk on the left along corridors.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I didn’t realise that. The original reason, I believe, was so that you could draw your sword with your right hand, if you were approaching someone aggressive coming towards you. When I was at school, we had to walk on the left along corridors.

It dates to a law passed by the City of London when crossing London Bridge. I do not have a quick reference on that. It was supposed to prevent sword play but when drafted it mistaken was written that when north bound on was to have be on the upstream side, when it should have said when north bound on was to have be on the downstream side. No one bothered to check the wording and the wrong side was passed. In the rest of the world the convention was to keep the swords on the outsides of the thoroughfare.

 

[G1DRP]

It dates to a law passed by the City of London when crossing London Bridge. I do not have a quick reference on that.

Thanks for the info.