Any Kodak HC110 alternative that has verified equal shelf life?

[PPPPPP42]

Tried searching but its like searching the phone book for someone named Smith, way too much came up.

I see Ilford has an HC variant but some have told me it doesn't last as long, same with the semi generic stuff (forget the brand name) someone else pointed out at freestyle.
I would like something that lasts as long as HC110 with at least the same quality level if not the exact same developing qualities. I hardly ever get a chance to shoot film so mixing straight from syrup is the only economical way to go for me expiration wise.

I have nowhere to buy HC110 locally and everything online is either out of stock or not shipping for various debated reasons. I did find some in one place that would ship but it was about $50 shipped for the 1L bottle, is that really the going rate now?

 

[nwilkins]

where do you live?

 

[PPPPPP42]

Rural WI, specifically Rice Lake. There MAY be somewhere left in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area in MN that I could make a field trip to at some point but the gas cost would be enough to double the cost of the developer if I went just for that.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Rodinal.
Or simply Fomadon R09 or Adox Rodinal.

 

[David Brown]

HC110, is $37 shipped to the Midwest (from Freestyle). At the common dilution B, that's just over $1 a liter. D-76 is $8/gallon, plus shipping, which is right at $2 a liter. Just what is your price point?

 

[PPPPPP42]

Actually $37 shipped would be fine, according to the site they are closed on weekends so I haven't called yet, but I was under the impression (which their page for it confirms) that the availability is somewhat sketchy.
My original question was mainly looking for something in a size that all places will ship that will be available easily any time and in the long term. I never seem to know what is next with Kodak these days.

 

[Roger Cole]

Freestyle says "low stock" but not "out of stock." When E100G was discontinued I called wanting 10 rolls when it listed "low stock" and that way more than that.

Amazon shows four in stock from Midwest Photo Exchange:

http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-HC-110-...d=1426975771&sr=8-1&keywords=hc-110+developer

 

[Dr Croubie]

I was also going to say Rodinal, that keeps forever too.
But if price and longevity are your goals, you can't go past Caffenol. Everything's dry, mix as needed, then dump it. Costs as much as a cup of instant coffee, in the most literal sense.
I've been getting better results lately with 40 year old film in Caffenol-L-C than I've had with fresh film and Xtol / Microphen / Perceptol.
I'm ditching them, from now on it's Rodinal and Caffenol for the slow stuff, and TMax Dev for pushing D3200, and that's it.

 

[RattyMouse]

HC110, is $37 shipped to the Midwest (from Freestyle). At the common dilution B, that's just over $1 a liter. D-76 is $8/gallon, plus shipping, which is right at $2 a liter. Just what is your price point?

Dilution E takes this price point down significantly. I can't see for the life of me why dilution B is so popular.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

HC-110 is difficult to make unless you have the necessary equipment needed to make it. There is only one company authorized by Kodak to make it at this time and that is Tetenal in Germany. Legacy makes something similar in action called L-110. It is NOT HC-110 and does not have the shelf life. If you want HC-110 then buy HC-110.

 

[RattyMouse]

It is NOT HC-110 and does not have the shelf life. If you want HC-110 then buy HC-110.

Maybe the OP is having problems finding HC-110. I can't find it anymore in Shanghai. The shop where I bought my last bottle informed me that he cannot get HC-110 anymore and so suggested I find a different developer. It was made very clear to me that the shop was not even trying to find HC-110 anymore as Kodak was not helpful getting the situation straightened out.

 

[jim appleyard]

You could also buy the dry chems Metol and Sodium Sulfite from someplace like Artcraft Chemicals and mix your own D-23; as little as 1/2 liter if you wish. The dry chems will last quite a while. Also a pretty cheap way to go .

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Since Kodak designed HC-110 for commercial photofinishers to produce results as close to those of D-76 then your best option is just to buy D-76 or Ilford ID-11.

 

[NB23]

Because it was the dilution that used to develop all the most popular films in 5 minutes.
Anything less and you'd have the possibility of uneven development, and anything over 5 minutes was considered a waste of time.

Dilution B was, and still is, a Sweet Spot.

 

[Lamar]

I just ordered some HC-110 from Freestyle on Thursday for the purpose of comparing to the L-110 I've been using, it should be here next week. I can't tell you about the longevity of the L-110 yet, I've only had my bottle for 2 months. When the HC-110 arrives I'll do some comparisons to see if I can tell much of a difference in the developed negatives. Regardless of what I find, I like the L-110 quite a bit. It gives a very pleasing grain character to my Tri-X without the grain becoming obtrusive. Give me a year or two and I'll let you know if the L-110 is still working, if I haven't used it all up.

Actually $37 shipped would be fine, according to the site they are closed on weekends so I haven't called yet, but I was under the impression (which their page for it confirms) that the availability is somewhat sketchy.
My original question was mainly looking for something in a size that all places will ship that will be available easily any time and in the long term. I never seem to know what is next with Kodak these days.

 

[MattKing]

I just ordered some HC-110 from Freestyle on Thursday for the purpose of comparing to the L-110 I've been using, it should be here next week. I can't tell you about the longevity of the L-110 yet, I've only had my bottle for 2 months. When the HC-110 arrives I'll do some comparisons to see if I can tell much of a difference in the developed negatives. Regardless of what I find, I like the L-110 quite a bit. It gives a very pleasing grain character to my Tri-X without the grain becoming obtrusive. Give me a year or two and I'll let you know if the L-110 is still working, if I haven't used it all up.

For this test to be determinative, I think you will have to get back to us in ten years time, not two .

 

[MartinP]

During a tidy up of the 'fietskelder' (bicycle-storage cellar, a very typical feature for apartments in NL) I re-discovered an unopened litre bottle of HC110 from approximately 1988. It is a sort of light tea colour and very thick, as one would expect. When I have a spare bit of film, I will test the developer and find a thread here to mention the results. I have had it there in the cupboard looking at me for a year now, but haven't yet made a deliberate test-roll to experiment with . . .

As an alternative for long-lasting developers then powder-based ones will last a long time when dry, but probably not so long when mixed as a stock-solution of course. Which of the several different currently available versions of Rodinal last the longest is unclear, but in any case they are not solvent developers (so give different results to D76 / HC110) and also lose a little filmspeed as well.

 

[nworth]

Rodinal is famed for its longevity. It used to be sold in ampoules to make one liter, and the life of those unopened ampoules was just about indefinite. The modern packaging does not do so well after the bottle is opened, but it still lasts a long time. Pyrocat-HD does not last as long as HC-110 or probably Rodinal, but it does quite well for itself. As I age, I'm not taking as many pictures as I used to, and I do not get down to the darkroom very often. As a result, I find mixing my own very handy. I get fresh developer in the amount I need pretty much when I need it. Dry chemicals pretty much last forever if kept dry. You do need to buy a good scale and learn to use it. D-23 and D-76 are both easy to mix and give excellent results.

 

[M Carter]

Rodinal is famed for its longevity. It used to be sold in ampoules to make one liter, and the life of those unopened ampoules was just about indefinite. The modern packaging does not do so well after the bottle is opened, but it still lasts a long time. Pyrocat-HD does not last as long as HC-110 or probably Rodinal, but it does quite well for itself. As I age, I'm not taking as many pictures as I used to, and I do not get down to the darkroom very often. As a result, I find mixing my own very handy. I get fresh developer in the amount I need pretty much when I need it. Dry chemicals pretty much last forever if kept dry. You do need to buy a good scale and learn to use it. D-23 and D-76 are both easy to mix and give excellent results.

I find Rodinal and HC-110 to be pretty different as far as the final print goes as far as sharpness, apparent grain, and soild tone rendering - though I shoot HP5+ and Delta 3200 often.

If someone wants long-lasting HC-110, I don't know that I'd suggest they switch to Rodinal. I guess I'd suggest they test it and see what they think...

As for powdered developers - I was always told to mix the entire batch of Dektol (I know, paper dev) (but can really be kind of kickass for film when you want something intense) because the various powders won't be balanced when you only use a portion. Wonder if that's true of all powders.

It's like making steak rub - no matter how much you shake it, it stratifies pretty quickly, salt on the top, cumin on the bottom...

 

[Vaughn]

Dilution E takes this price point down significantly. I can't see for the life of me why dilution B is so popular.

I develop 5 sheets of 8x10 at once in an Expert 3005 drum. I like using no more than a quart of liquid at a time (weight, fill/drain time). A quart of HC-110 at Dil B does 2.5 8x10 sheets in a tray or 5 in a tank (without replenishment). I think a drum must be somewhere in between (don't know why the difference is so high -- does anyone?).

A liter of Dil A has twice the capacity as Dil B. So using the Expert Drum, I tend to go towards somewhere in between.

 

[Vaughn]

A little delayed intelligence (on-line research) shows that 6ml of HC-110 syrup is needed per 8x10. That fits in with the 35ml of HC-110 I last used for five 8x10's (add water to make one liter). It is nice to have a little extra -- I extend the development to increase contrast for carbon printing -- I have a lot of silver to develop! Negs with a little muscle...lol.

So I used 35ml HC110 added to 965ml water...that should be 1:28 (or 1+28). I am trying to conserve my HC-110!

Dil B uses 31 ml of concentrate to make a liter, so in theory that should do 5 sheets of 8x10. But if the bottle is old or if it has been opened for awhile, etc, then a little more seems to be better. The first batch at Dil.B lacked the punch I wanted from the negs. Might be the age of the developers (HC-110 and me) or the robust development I want and expect. Nothing that a little selenium toning might be able to compensate for.

 

[Lamar]

My HC-110 just arrived from Freestyle. Let's see what all the talk is about........ I'm setting an alarm on my phone for March 27th, 2025. I'll let you know.

For this test to be determinative, I think you will have to get back to us in ten years time, not two .

 

[miha]

I see Ilford has an HC variant but some have told me it doesn't last as long

Ilfotec HC lasts for years! Its my preferred developer, beautiful with HP5.

 

[Vaughn]

My HC-110 just arrived from Freestyle. Let's see what all the talk is about..

Is HC-110 really ever that light? LOL!

 

[dynachrome]

You can look up PC-TEA. It's made of phenidone, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and TEA (trienthanolamine). It is inexpensive to make and lasts a very long time.