best meter ever in an SLR camera

[Theo Sulphate]

I am constantly impressed by the autoexposure of my Minolta Maxxum 7. It may or may not not be the best, as I have no way to objectively compare, but it's very good.

The easiest manual in camera meter I ever used was on a Pentax Spotmatic.

That's right - my Maxxum 7 has handled some difficult lighting situations very well. It's a very versatile camera.

As for the Spotmatic, which lost its spot-ness before being brought to market in 1964, I've had less than an ideal relationship with that meter's implementation. See, in 1971 I desperately wanted an SrT-101, but couldn't afford it. Rather than get its poor-sister SrT-100, which would only serve as a sad reminder, I swung 180 degrees away from what I really wanted and got a Pentax SP-500. Having that very different camera instead would take my mind off the SrT-101. However, as you know, when you push up on the side-mounted meter switch, the lens aperture stops down. If you release the shutter, the aperture opens back up afterwards and the switch goes down. BUT, if you decide not to make a photo, or you just want to look around with the meter on, then to turn the meter off, you have to manually pull that switch down. Well, that's where the problem is because the switch "catches" a bit when you pull it down. Within *one week*, my switch broke off. The dealer accused me of all sorts of things, but it got repaired under warranty. Well, not wanting to go through that again, I devised a new way to use the meter: switch the lens lever from Auto to Manual first, then, when you push the lever up, there's no resistance and no catch: you just hold the meter switch up with your finger and when you release your finger the switch comes down smoothly. Yes, you're still stopped-down and it's slow, but it's not going to break. Eventually, I just stopped using the meter and figured out all the exposures in my head. That's what I did for 15 years with the Pentax as my only camera.

That's what I do as well with my F2's: no battery or metering, I use the Photomic head just to see the aperture.

 

[BradleyK]

Nikon F5 matrix meter and spot metering. Very versatile and reliable.

+1

 

[John_Nikon_F]

I'd have to say the Soverized DP-12 on my F2AS...

-J

 

[Les Sarile]

The Pentax LX has an unassisted meter range of EV -6.5 to EV 20 and it can accurately aperture priority autoexpose a scene for as long as it takes (>hours long or batteries die) while monitoring the scene for changes in lighting and adjusting accordingly.

 

[David Lyga]

David, are you asking the best meter, or the best meter display? The best meter is the one that's in your favorite camera, and works the way it should, giving accurate exposure info. The best display(easiest to see and use) is highly subjective.

Boy, was I ever shortsighted! I simply like the way that the needle in the AE-1 is so responsive and has always gotten me the exposures I wanted. But, dolefully, Chan Tran is correct with noting its shortcomings, in that in manual mode, Canon 'conveniently' omitted that function.

But the more egregious thing that I did was simply 'ignore' the autofocus and professional calibre systems' meters, which were forcefully (and correctly) brought out here. (I use neither!). That Les Sarile emphasizes the much lengthened metering range and 'real time' meter adjustment in the (professional) Pentax LX (i.e., during actual exposure) brings this omission on my part to beautiful fruition.

I am happy that I started this thread, mostly for the uninitiated (and newbies) to be able to garner much useful advice here. - David Lyga

 

[ic-racer]

This. The science is good and it works well in practice. Best thing is that it is available in the Nikon N55/N75 and similar cameras. These cameras are available for around $10 to $50 at KEH. In terms of image qualaity, I think these cameras represent the pinnacle of point-and-shoot SLR technology. The last of a generation.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I've been very very happy with the in-camera metering from my Contax SLRs (167mt, RX and now RTS III). In terms of display, the RX probably had the best one.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Not an SLR but the meter on my Contax G2 has been without a doubt the most accurate I've ever used. Back when I first got it in the late 90's I shot mostly slide film and darned if just shooting away with the thing gave me the most perfectly exposed chromes 9 times out of 10.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Love my New F-1

I like the spot metering in the Canon New F-1. I calculate in my head, based on the readings. I'd be happy if all my cameras worked that way.

I have a Sekonic spot meter, but if I can find a spot meter focusing screen at a good price, I'd get one. You have to know the Zone system very well to use a spot meter all the time.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Not an SLR but the meter is my Contax G2 has been without a doubt the most accurate I've ever used. Back when I first got it in the late 90's I shot mostly slide film and darned if just shooting away with the thing gave me the most perfectly exposed chromes 9 times out of 10.

The G2 not being an SLR is the only reason I didn't mention it here, but I wholeheartedly agree with that assessment.

 

[Pioneer]

For accurate metering, the best I have ever owned is in my Pentax LX.

If I am interested in spot metering, than the 1 degree spot capability in my Pentax PZ-1p is tough to beat and is quite accurate even today.

For reading the meter I have to give this one to my Pentax K1000, Spotmatic or Vivitar V3800n.

 

[blockend]

This. The science is good and it works well in practice. Best thing is that it is available in the Nikon N55/N75 and similar cameras. These cameras are available for around $10 to $50 at KEH. In terms of image qualaity, I think these cameras represent the pinnacle of point-and-shoot SLR technology. The last of a generation.

I'd go along with that. Those final model entry level SLRs gave a helluva lot for the money new, and are ridiculously good value on the used market. Not only metering, but all the other professional stuff that dripped down to beginner's cameras in those final years. My only gripe is the basement Nikons are big cameras compared to the Canon opposition, and seem about twice the size and weight.

 

[GRHazelton]

Here's another vote for the Pentax LX. Mine has never failed me, of course I am used to center-weighted metering. I do like the OM 4's metering, but I find it less convenient. The LX meters off the film at the time of exposure, so when shooting with other than the pentaprism light entering the viewfinder makes no difference. The meter also automatically compensates for changes in light caused by passing clouds, etc.

Shooting in the dark is child's play, as is shooting fireworks. I've never found the limit of a timed exposure, but maybe I haven't waited long enough!

Now the fly in the ointment. For some reason, Pentax omitted an exposure hold function. Why, oh why???

 

[David Lyga]

Endless examples illuminate my omissions!

And, for that, I thank all. Metering has actually gotten to a 'state of the art' status: ALL scenic possibilities have been inserted into the technical algorithm. I am getting an education. - David Lyga

 

[benjiboy]

The "best" in camera metering system is the one in which the operator knows it's limitations, and how to compensate for them.

 

[flavio81]

The "best" in camera metering system is the one in which the operator knows it's limitations, and how to compensate for them.

THIS!!! +10 !!

Benjiboy, you surely are a beacon of wisdom in this forum!

 

[ic-racer]

I'd go along with that. Those final model entry level SLRs gave a helluva lot for the money new, and are ridiculously good value on the used market. Not only metering, but all the other professional stuff that dripped down to beginner's cameras in those final years. My only gripe is the basement Nikons are big cameras compared to the Canon opposition, and seem about twice the size and weight.

Is this what you are talking about? The Rebel does look smaller than the others, but I don't know if I'd call the N75 "big"

 

[John_Nikon_F]

The "best" in camera metering system is the one in which the operator knows it's limitations, and how to compensate for them.

Bingo.

-J

 

[destroya]

knowing the meter and how it behaves is the key.

for slide film, the F5 and it has no equals. for B&W, whichever camera I have in my hand (but I prefer the F3).

 

[E. von Hoegh]

The "best" in camera metering system is the one in which the operator knows it's limitations, and how to compensate for them.

+100

My favorite sort of SLR meter to use in-camera is the center-the-needle type such as the Mikkormat, Nikon FTN, Spotmatic, etc. Just keep the metering pattern in mind and I get great results all the time It's one of those KISS systems.

 

[PentaxBronica]

I've always been quite taken with cameras which have a meter readout on the top plate, as well as in the viewfinder. It just makes walkabout shooting easier, as you can glance down and adjust settings while walking up to the subject. Once there just lift, focus, shoot, and walk on. Means you're not that bloke blocking the pavement while fiddling with a camera, also protects you from pickpockets or over-zealous security goons. Plus it means that you're always more-or-less on the right settings, if you glance down every so often and then click the shutter or aperture dials. I'll settle for a slightly overexposed shot if it means I get the dramatic image of (say) an ambulance cornering hard with blues and twos on.

So far the Nikkormat FTn, Pentax SV (with clip-on meter) and Canon FX are the only mechanical bodies I've tried with this. The Pentax Super A tells you the shutter speed, and naturally the AF bodies like the SF7/SFX and so on have a top LCD.

 

[Xmas]

I've always been quite taken with cameras which have a meter readout on the top plate, as well as in the viewfinder. It just makes walkabout shooting easier, as you can glance down and adjust settings while walking up to the subject. Once there just lift, focus, shoot, and walk on. Means you're not that bloke blocking the pavement while fiddling with a camera, also protects you from pickpockets or over-zealous security goons. Plus it means that you're always more-or-less on the right settings, if you glance down every so often and then click the shutter or aperture dials. I'll settle for a slightly overexposed shot if it means I get the dramatic image of (say) an ambulance cornering hard with blues and twos on.

So far the Nikkormat FTn, Pentax SV (with clip-on meter) and Canon FX are the only mechanical bodies I've tried with this. The Pentax Super A tells you the shutter speed, and naturally the AF bodies like the SF7/SFX and so on have a top LCD.

Add Nikon F2 with some of the meters, centered needle (where the shutter speed and aperture are also visible), the wind on lever switches the meter off/on as desired.

But my vote goes for the Canon P and Weston II with elastic band (holding them together), only breaks two of the OP 'rules'.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

I've always been quite taken with cameras which have a meter readout on the top plate, as well as in the viewfinder. It just makes walkabout shooting easier, as you can glance down and adjust settings while walking up to the subject. Once there just lift, focus, shoot, and walk on. Means you're not that bloke blocking the pavement while fiddling with a camera, also protects you from pickpockets or over-zealous security goons. Plus it means that you're always more-or-less on the right settings, if you glance down every so often and then click the shutter or aperture dials. I'll settle for a slightly overexposed shot if it means I get the dramatic image of (say) an ambulance cornering hard with blues and twos on.

So far the Nikkormat FTn, Pentax SV (with clip-on meter) and Canon FX are the only mechanical bodies I've tried with this. The Pentax Super A tells you the shutter speed, and naturally the AF bodies like the SF7/SFX and so on have a top LCD.

All the Nikkormat FT series bodies, the F with metered prisms, all the F2 bodies actually can do this (on the F2SB and F2AS, flip the eyepiece blind closed, and the correct exposure LED on the top will light up), etc. With respect to the SV, I'd use it without the meter, IMO. Cuts the size of the camera down by 33%. Plus, then you can use a Nikon DK-22 eyepiece adapter and an eyecup, etc.

-J

 

[GRHazelton]

All the Nikkormat FT series bodies, the F with metered prisms, all the F2 bodies actually can do this (on the F2SB and F2AS, flip the eyepiece blind closed, and the correct exposure LED on the top will light up), etc. With respect to the SV, I'd use it without the meter, IMO. Cuts the size of the camera down by 33%. Plus, then you can use a Nikon DK-22 eyepiece adapter and an eyecup, etc.

-J

" Plus, then you can use a Nikon DK-22 eyepiece adapter and an eyecup, etc." Do you know if these will fit on other Pentaxes?

 

[John_Nikon_F]

" Plus, then you can use a Nikon DK-22 eyepiece adapter and an eyecup, etc." Do you know if these will fit on other Pentaxes?

Yes. As long as the eyepiece has the vertical slots that were originally meant for the accessory shoe. The only thing you will have to do is slide the adapter up a little to get the back open. Said adapter also works on Minolta cameras.

-J