The problem with understanding the MD 262 must be its rarity. Not many were made so few understand it…
You can shut the LED screen off.
The problem with understanding the MD 262 must be its rarity. Not many were made so few understand it…
Use the histogram to see if the brightness is within the correct range. I see posters post photos that are too dark, and you can easily see that they are dark by one or two stops by checking the histogram. You don't even need a calibrated monitor to see that problem.
But for a camera like the Leica MD 262, is there any histogram display in the viewfinder to look at after a shot is taken?!
The very existence of any histogram entails an in-camera JPG creation capability
Because there’s really not anything special to understand. It’s not rocket science.
There's no screen. It's a pure optical viewfinder. No gizmo's. You get to see what you shot when you get back home.
Which it doesn't.
What's so hard to understand about all this?
The only one thing is that I can't find any document that said the MD262 only shoot raw although I do believe the op and it does make sense to have it only shoots raw.
There's no screen. It's a pure optical viewfinder. No gizmo's. You get to see what you shot when you get back home.
Which it doesn't.
What's so hard to understand about all this?
Not so hard for me to understand, I was merely providing rebuttal to the suggestion to simply 'look at the histogram'
The only problem is the Leica MD 262 has no screen but the monitor does…
How’s that…
If someone owns a camera that has an LED screen but doesn't want to keep looking at it after each shot, just shut it off.
If someone owns a camera that has an LED screen but doesn't want to keep looking at it after each shot, just shut it off.
Some people (I am one of them) don't want to have features that they don't use on their cameras. But I do realize it's less expensive if you accept features you don't use on the camera you have.
Actually, the MD 262 (no screen) cost more than the M262 with a screen and all the features!
But that’s Leica for you, more for less and less for more…
I know that and that's why I said I do realize that it's less expensive if I accept the features I don't want on the camera. I accept an LCD on my camera, accept that it does video. accept that it does liveview, to save money
My cameras don't have built in flash or scenes modes but if I accept that I can save even more money.
That’s why I bought the MD 262, I hate LCD screens, they are complicated causing more attention to the camera than subject…
Yet, there is validity to what Alan said...Just ignore it. I only use my rear LCD for menu settings...my image review immediately after shooting is OFF, and I never look at the histogram.
Nikon 2 said:I try to shoot a bright scene by locking in the exposure at its brightest then recomposing using a + 1.7 -+2.3 EV compensation
Actually my comment related to raw to jpeg conversion. At about 2.3EV above the meter reading the highlight would burn out in the jpeg. The raw can record 2/3 or 1 stop above that.
Very good explanation in living color…I just went outside at 11am, and here on west coast of US at about Latitude 38, today has a blue largely cloud free sky, temp. about 69F.
Metering an 18% grey card as the Zero point...
Point 1 shows the fallacy of assuming the sky is a metering surrogate for an 18% grey card (or incident light meter)...in this case between darker and considerably brighter than a midtone area of the scene.
- depending upon angle relative to the sun, the sky meters between -1.0EV to +2.0EV compared to grey card reading
- there are some wispy clouds (in the portion of the sky that meters +2.0EV) which measure in the range of+3.0EV to +3.5EV compared to the grey card
Point 2 illustrates the fact that if you want to capture detail in the clouds and not merely have blown out highlights in that area, that portion of the scene can be +3.5EV brighter than the grey card midtone areas!
The following shot series shows what happens to highlight detail...I put some grains of salt on a Colorchecker card in the white patch.
Metering for the 18% gray patch, the white patch is +2.4EV brighter. Photo 1 is shot per meter, photo 2 is +1EV overexposed, photo 3 is +2EV overexposed, so the white patch in the series is +2.4EV, +3.4EV, +4.4EV. The shot with white patch at +3.4EV still holds detail
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