Best screen resolution for RAW files

[Nikon 2]

The problem with understanding the MD 262 must be its rarity. Not many were made so few understand it…

 

[Pieter12]

You can shut the LED screen off.

You can also choose not to look. But then again, I’ve been told I have a lot to learn about photography.

 

[Pieter12]

The problem with understanding the MD 262 must be its rarity. Not many were made so few understand it…

Because there’s really not anything special to understand. It’s not rocket science.

 

[wiltw]

Use the histogram to see if the brightness is within the correct range. I see posters post photos that are too dark, and you can easily see that they are dark by one or two stops by checking the histogram. You don't even need a calibrated monitor to see that problem.

But for a camera like the Leica MD 262, is there any histogram display in the viewfinder to look at after a shot is taken?! The very existence of any histogram entails an in-camera JPG creation capability, to create the preview image that one can look at on the rear LCD of a dSLR, or in the viewfinder of an MIL.

 

[koraks]

But for a camera like the Leica MD 262, is there any histogram display in the viewfinder to look at after a shot is taken?!

There's no screen. It's a pure optical viewfinder. No gizmo's. You get to see what you shot when you get back home.

The very existence of any histogram entails an in-camera JPG creation capability

Which it doesn't.

What's so hard to understand about all this?

 

[Nikon 2]

Because there’s really not anything special to understand. It’s not rocket science.

I’m glad you understand…

 

[Nikon 2]

There's no screen. It's a pure optical viewfinder. No gizmo's. You get to see what you shot when you get back home.



Which it doesn't.

What's so hard to understand about all this?

Here’s my thousand words…

 

[Nikon 2]

By looking at the picture of the MD 262 does it:

A) Have a screen?
B) Have no screen?
…

 

[Chan Tran]

The only one thing is that I can't find any document that said the MD262 only shoot raw although I do believe the op and it does make sense to have it only shoots raw.

 

[Nikon 2]

The only one thing is that I can't find any document that said the MD262 only shoot raw although I do believe the op and it does make sense to have it only shoots raw.

 

[Nikon 2]

Hope this is sufficient!
From Steve Huff…

 

[wiltw]

There's no screen. It's a pure optical viewfinder. No gizmo's. You get to see what you shot when you get back home.



Which it doesn't.

What's so hard to understand about all this?

Not so hard for me to understand, I was merely providing rebuttal to the suggestion to simply 'look at the histogram'

 

[Nikon 2]

Not so hard for me to understand, I was merely providing rebuttal to the suggestion to simply 'look at the histogram'

Well, I’m glad everyone is on the same page…

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

The only problem is the Leica MD 262 has no screen but the monitor does…

I was referring to when you edit the photo on your computer. You can check the histogram range to see if you're clipping at either end and that you have a full range of brightness.

As far as your camera, you could bracket your exposures if you;re concerned the exposure settings are wrong. Some cameras have bracket setting controls to do that automatically.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

How’s that…

If someone owns a camera that has an LED screen but doesn't want to keep looking at it after each shot, just shut it off.

 

[Chan Tran]

If someone owns a camera that has an LED screen but doesn't want to keep looking at it after each shot, just shut it off.

Some people (I am one of them) don't want to have features that they don't use on their cameras. But I do realize it's less expensive if you accept features you don't use on the camera you have.

 

[Nikon 2]

If someone owns a camera that has an LED screen but doesn't want to keep looking at it after each shot, just shut it off.

That’s why I bought the MD 262, I hate LCD screens, they are complicated causing more attention to the camera than subject…

 

[Nikon 2]

Some people (I am one of them) don't want to have features that they don't use on their cameras. But I do realize it's less expensive if you accept features you don't use on the camera you have.

Actually, the MD 262 (no screen) cost more than the M262 with a screen and all the features!
But that’s Leica for you, more for less and less for more…

 

[Chan Tran]

Actually, the MD 262 (no screen) cost more than the M262 with a screen and all the features!
But that’s Leica for you, more for less and less for more…

I know that and that's why I said I do realize that it's less expensive if I accept the features I don't want on the camera. I accept an LCD on my camera, accept that it does video. accept that it does liveview, to save money
My cameras don't have built in flash or scenes modes but if I accept that I can save even more money.

 

[Nikon 2]

I know that and that's why I said I do realize that it's less expensive if I accept the features I don't want on the camera. I accept an LCD on my camera, accept that it does video. accept that it does liveview, to save money
My cameras don't have built in flash or scenes modes but if I accept that I can save even more money.

…

 

[wiltw]

That’s why I bought the MD 262, I hate LCD screens, they are complicated causing more attention to the camera than subject…

Yet, there is validity to what Alan said...Just ignore it. I only use my rear LCD for menu settings...my image review immediately after shooting is OFF, and I never look at the histogram.

 

[Nikon 2]

Yet, there is validity to what Alan said...Just ignore it. I only use my rear LCD for menu settings...my image review immediately after shooting is OFF, and I never look at the histogram.

I have no problem with the MD 262…

 

[wiltw]

I try to shoot a bright scene by locking in the exposure at its brightest then recomposing using a + 1.7 -+2.3 EV compensation

Actually my comment related to raw to jpeg conversion. At about 2.3EV above the meter reading the highlight would burn out in the jpeg. The raw can record 2/3 or 1 stop above that.

I just went outside at 11am, and here on west coast of US at about Latitude 38, today has a blue largely cloud free sky, temp. about 69F.
Metering an 18% grey card as the Zero point...

1. depending upon angle relative to the sun, the sky meters between -1.0EV to +2.0EV compared to grey card reading
2. there are some wispy clouds (in the portion of the sky that meters +2.0EV) which measure in the range of+3.0EV to +3.5EV compared to the grey card

Point 1 shows the fallacy of assuming the sky is a metering surrogate for an 18% grey card (or incident light meter)...in this case between darker and considerably brighter than a midtone area of the scene.
Point 2 illustrates the fact that if you want to capture detail in the clouds and not merely have blown out highlights in that area, that portion of the scene can be +3.5EV brighter than the grey card midtone areas!

The following shot series shows what happens to highlight detail...I put some grains of salt on a Colorchecker card in the white patch.
Metering for the 18% gray patch, the white patch is +2.4EV brighter. Photo 1 is shot per meter, photo 2 is +1EV overexposed, photo 3 is +2EV overexposed, so the white patch in the series is +2.4EV, +3.4EV, +4.4EV. The shot with white patch at +3.4EV still holds detail

 

[Nikon 2]

I just went outside at 11am, and here on west coast of US at about Latitude 38, today has a blue largely cloud free sky, temp. about 69F.
Metering an 18% grey card as the Zero point...

1. depending upon angle relative to the sun, the sky meters between -1.0EV to +2.0EV compared to grey card reading
2. there are some wispy clouds (in the portion of the sky that meters +2.0EV) which measure in the range of+3.0EV to +3.5EV compared to the grey card

Point 1 shows the fallacy of assuming the sky is a metering surrogate for an 18% grey card (or incident light meter)...in this case between darker and considerably brighter than a midtone area of the scene.
Point 2 illustrates the fact that if you want to capture detail in the clouds and not merely have blown out highlights in that area, that portion of the scene can be +3.5EV brighter than the grey card midtone areas!

The following shot series shows what happens to highlight detail...I put some grains of salt on a Colorchecker card in the white patch.
Metering for the 18% gray patch, the white patch is +2.4EV brighter. Photo 1 is shot per meter, photo 2 is +1EV overexposed, photo 3 is +2EV overexposed, so the white patch in the series is +2.4EV, +3.4EV, +4.4EV. The shot with white patch at +3.4EV still holds detail

Very good explanation in living color…

 

[Nikon 2]

Used Koraks advice on ETTR with pleasing results…