PM me for the code
I guess I could post this another 19 times and then PM you
Hi,
That's great)
getting the computer talking to the Arduino is probably the hardest bit.
Should have said, in the Arduino, IDE, in the 'Tools' tab, one has to select the correct board 'Nano'
and just below this, Processor, is one selects 'ATmega 328P (Old bootloader)
I have a dedicated Nano with a program loaded, to update the bootloader on any Arduino, kindly written by Nick Gammon. l load the 'Optiboot' bootloader, which frees some extra program memory.
I'm guessing I should be good for PMs by Monday (5 days)
You should already be capable of sending PM's! Please let me know if this is not the case.
I was working on the assumption that I had to have 20 non-filler posts and be registered for 5 days?
That's odd. Well, I alerted @Sean on the issue, so I hope he'll look into it. He's in NZ timezone though, so hold on until tomorrow!
Many thanks Niglyn.
A quick question if I may, what's the reason for soldering direct to the lasers rather than using the Dupont cables?
Or rather 2 questions. All my cameras have a horizontal shutter - I assume that I should placed the lasers and receivers so that they are spaced slightly less then 36mm apart?
According to the forum rules: "Due to recent spam issues, private messages and classified ad postings to fellow members will not be available until you have posted at least 20 (genuine, not filler) messages in our public forum area." I guess I could post this another 19 times and then PM you
Hi,
I space the sensors 20mm apart. They are mounted at a height that a 35mm camera can be held horizontally or vertically between them (I use a spacer under the camera when mounting horizontal). You could mount the rx into a plastic project box and drill small holes for the rx to see through and then place this on the back of the camera. This is the way professional units work. They then only have one diffused light source, rather than mine having two lasers.
You could make a wooden holder similar to mine, but make it much higher and lay it on it's side. the camera could then sit flat on the workbench, with the tester to the side of it.
You do not want to space the sensors right at the edge of the frame. Everything in life take a bit of time to get going, so the shutter curtain may not be quite up to speed at the start. Service manuals often specify a curtain travel speed and also how far apart the measurements should be taken. Canon T70 for examples specifies 20mm.
The reason for soldering the wires, it was easier for me to do it that way and there are less wires to run back to the Arduino. Using Dupont wires maybe much easier for those less familiar with electronics.
Thanks for your interest in this project.
N.
Thank Heaven for the internet.
In the 70s and 80s I tried making all sorts of circuits. Some actually worked. The components available to amateurs then were often of dubious quality and a common phrase heard by customers in surplus electronic parts shops was " that should do."
Circuits were taken from library books but more frequently d.i.y. electronics magazines. The best advice I ever had back then was not to dive in buying the parts and assembling them to find out it didn't work but, to wait for a couple more editions of the magazine to come out. By then you would have read the errata's for the article and have a better chance of getting the correct components and wiring corrections.
No slight meant for the above project and posts.
I am definitely going to have a go at making one.
Thanks for putting such a comprehensive project together.
Typical spacing of sensors on commercial shutter speed testers is 32mm for horizontal running shutters and 20mm for vertical running shutters. These sensors are placed diagonally in a block that installs in the film plane so that in this way you can read vertical or horizontal shutter travel times correctly.
Question about power? I was thinking of this board, because it has a power input jack. I see you don't have that so how are you powering yours?
I'm going to add a calibration factor to the code. I know for my existing Laser/Photodiode tester the calibration factor is the same across all speeds. The issue (with my present shutter tester) is the photodiode turns ON too soon and turns OFF too late as the shutter slit passes. This would cause the shutter speed to indicate slower than reality or estimate a wider slit opening.
I used to program in C++ and get this, I had a Mac with two slots (no hard drive). To compile, I had to swap disks in and out of the slots. So it has been a while since I coded anythng...
A few years ago I wanted to show my kids some of my programs, but the Mac SE30 I still have has a hard disk and none of my software is on it. Don't know where all my floppies are, probably are no good anyway.
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