Looking at the shutter curtains from the back of the camera I think that I can see tiny particles on the edges of the shutter blades. Looks like the damper is probably disintegrating. Will have to check details of the fix for this. If the damper is removed there is always the question of replacement material and how to install it. I would have thought that running the shutter without the damper might shorten its life.
Thanks Andreas, Google translate made that link you provided perfectly understandable, (my high school level German is far too rusty and the vocabulary taught didn't extend to camera maintenance).
I have a fairly full of surgical instruments including all sort sorts of curved forceps so I'm good to go with tools.
Now to study both the website instructions and examine the T90 carefully before any action is to be taken.
I would be tempted to get one as a backup body. Their key feature which attracts me is the ability to meter in both average or partial, (12% ?), modes. They also ran on cheap replaceable batteries - AA or AAA, I can't remember which.Meanwhile all the T70s are trucking along perfectly forty years later.
Best FD camera Canon ever made.
I would be tempted to get one as a backup body. Their key feature which attracts me is the ability to meter in both average or partial, (12% ?), modes. They also ran on cheap replaceable batteries - AA or AAA, I can't remember which.
The T70 is cheap as chips on the used market. The feature set of the T70 was heavily cut down from that built into the T90 and this is reflected in the price.
Many would say the the F1-N is the best FD SLR that Canon ever made and in terms of rugged construction this is probably true. When I bought my T90 in 1987 a fully optioned F1-N with AE metering prism plus multiple pattern focusing screens and a motordrive cost a lot more, and weighed a lot more then a T90. The T90 still had a more sophisticated shutter and the ability to do very accurate TTL flash metering.
I would nominate the T90 as the best value for money, high performance FD camera that Canon made and I certainly feel that I have had my money's worth out of it. With some careful maintenance and a bit of luck I will get a few more years use out of it.
P.S. IMO the T70 and T80 were both butt ugly. What were Canon thinking of? The curvaceous body of the T90 set the pattern for most later AF SLR's and later DSLR's from most manufacturers.
Haha, I won't bite. Each to their own.
I have a spare rear lens cap that looks a bit like a T70 that I could send you. It's called a Canon T50.
The T-70 is a masterpiece of industrial design and it is clearly what inspired the first EOS bodies.
View attachment 352997
Based on my previous (repair) experiences with the Canon T90 with regard to preservation/problems/repair options, I would like to give a summary of the following recommendations/hints:
The T90, introduced in 1986, is a fascinating camera that still has the potential to overwhelm due to its diverse features.
- Sticky shutter - gummed-up shutter blades: Can be permanently repaired, damper in the shutter area that has become sticky can be removed without dismantling. Lighter fluid/acetone on blotting paper and, if necessary, a probe are used.
- Shutter does not release - flashing arrow in the display: The cause is the mirror magnet, which no longer works due to magnetization. Can be fixed with a magnetized screwdriver blade or replaced with only little disassembly.
- Shutter does not release - “EEE” is displayed on the display and “HELP” in the viewfinder: If gummed-up shutter blades are no longer moving see 1. Other cause: locking magnets that do no longer separate. This can only be fixed by deeply dismantling the camera; I am not aware of any report on this yet.
- Light seals and mirror shock absorber should be durable in the long term. I haven't had a T90 with any problems yet.
- Any corrosion in the battery compartment due to leaking batteries: One should always check whether the decomposing battery acid has already worked its way through the connection cables towards the circuit board. Dismantling necessary, if necessary cleaning and replacing the soldering points/wiring.
- The T90 should be moved regularly to prevent problems with the magnets (2., 3.). I trigger my T90s every month and check the function.
- A display that displays incorrectly can be replaced. Dismantling the top cover and soldering skills required.
- Backup battery for ASA setting: Same as 7.
- Dial wheel with dropouts - for example, increasing aperture values are not displayed per click. Contact error, probably due to oxidation. Point accessible by dismantling, but complication due to short cabling to the trigger. Therefore cleaning of the contacts can be tried by turning them often.
Known as “the tank”, it is robust and valuable. The mechanics are heavy duty and designed for hard work.
Together with the FD lenses and system flash units, you get a fully motorized complete package for first-level analog photography
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All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
It was called "the tank" after the Russian T90 main battle tank.
@Helge, apologies are in order. I haven't seen a T70 in ages and they are not that ugly after all. I may have to chase one down to add to my fleet. So much for thinning out my collection.
The EOS 620 which came out a few months after I bought my T90 is certainly a handsome beast. A sort of squared-off T90 as it still has the sloping shoulders from the prism holding the LCD display. It also has the control wheel and shutter button on the grip; very convenient placement. One drawback was the expensive batteries it used - lithium 2CR5 from memory.
620 is still a very impressive camera. If it had a wide, normal and long reasonably fast prime, I’d chose that any day over the T90.
Unfortunately, existing FD lenses can no longer be used. A pain that many Canon photographers still haven't gotten over today
But really what I’m saying is that it’s not worth building an FD collection up with the idea that it’s the ultimate goal to put them on a T90.
FTb, A-1, nF1 and T70 are simply better cameras where it counts.
Why not and why should the cameras you mentioned be better for this purpose?
What do you even mean by “better cameras”?
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