Everything you want to know about FUJIFILM color RA4 papers

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DREW WILEY

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It's based on common experience. Starting points aren't posted on boxes because it would be misleading. Like I said, even different colorhead settings aren't necessarily equal to one another. For example, on my 8X10 Durst colorhead, there are two scales for each dial, one in Durst increments, the other in the old Kodak ones. Most enlargers are closer to the Durst standard. And my suggestion of a starting point is exactly that - just a starting point. It's best that you begin with a master negative of something like a MacBeth Color Checker Chart very precisely exposed and correctly color temp balanced. Then work your way up or down as needed until you get as perfect color as possible in the print. Two or three hours spent that way will spare you many many hours of headaches later.

I should also add that the link to PE's recommendations applies to papers no longer available. It's pretty much strictly Fuji at this point.
 

MattKing

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Matt, you know what is going on with KA, do they know if Sino is going to make paper??

I only know some things. And I do not know much about what is currently happening with Sino Promise.
Remember that Covid is still heavily affecting a lot of the manufacturing capabilities in important areas of China.
 
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koraks

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I understand why Fujifilm would promote LED printing.

I haven't looked into what they promote. I pulled out an optical print I made to discuss a different kind of defect/behavior (unrelated to color balance and optical vs digital) and the guy said "oh yeah, remind me to explain to you in a minute why optical printing isn't going to work well anymore on these papers" and he then told the story I recounted in my blog. He's not a marketing guy btw. So it's not information I was specifically asking for; he just put it out there.
 

mshchem

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I only know some things. And I do not know much about what is currently happening with Sino Promise.
Remember that Covid is still heavily affecting a lot of the manufacturing capabilities in important areas of China.

I am in agreement with you on the Covid mess. Impossible to know what is going to return to normal, ie pre-Covid and pre-tariffs.
 

DREW WILEY

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Koraks - I was implying how a certain amount of elasticity is engineered into these print products to handle inevitable variations in input. And if an engineer says, they won't work so well now optically, that doesn't necessarily mean they won't work EXCELLENTLY if one knows how to narrow down the parameters to better than what they consider average commercial conditions, which take into account the frequent need to iron out rather miserable negatives or chromes.

One learns to shoot the most appropriate film and with the most compatible print option in mind. That's what one can do if they control the entire workflow themselves beginning to end - all the way from the shot to the print itself. Commercial labs rarely have that luxury unless there's especially good communication with a familiar pro client. Otherwise, they simply do the best they can with whatever color neg come in, and those often aren't so good exposure-wise. It's all about bracketing dye curve endpoints; and there are intelligent ways of keeping that reined in before any potential crossover is encountered in the print.

All this is a helluva lot easier, gamut-wise, than even in Ciba days. No big deal. No need to cry wolf. The sky isn't falling on optical darkroom color enlarging. Just figure out which CN film works best with a particular paper, relative to your own needs, and expose correctly. In other words, forget all that "latitude" nonsense which sloppy people use in lieu of a real light meter. Do it right to begin with. And then take the time to fine-tune and optimize your color balancing in the darkroom too.

But you were responding to an incorrect assumption of mschem to begin with, or maybe just a typo, confusing LED exposure systems, which are barely even out of the cradle yet, versus laser printers, which have been around quite awhile and are in common high-volume commercial use.
 
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mshchem

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BTW, I still am able to make great color prints on the Fuji CA stuff that's available here in the USA. Not sure who packages it, comes in a Fujifilm white box with their label. I shoot everything on Kodak Portra.
 

pentaxuser

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I pulled out an optical print I made to discuss a different kind of defect/behavior (unrelated to color balance and optical vs digital) and the guy said "oh yeah, remind me to explain to you in a minute why optical printing isn't going to work well anymore on these papers" and he then told the story I recounted in my blog. .

What did you conclude, koraks, from this about the future of printing opticallyin his opinion? Which papers was he talking about, all Fuji papers or just some and in which case what are these that home darkroom printers should avoid?

Unfortunately it sounds as if this Fuji person is essentially saying that those with enlargers will not be able to make even OK prints so they have no future as far as he is concerned. Is he reflecting the Fuji view?

If so what does he believe the home printer of RA4 paper has to do that enables him to print at home?

On the surface this person seems to be suggesting that we may as well abandon our enlargers for RA4 printing

pentaxuser
 

DREW WILEY

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mschem - I've been going back and forth with Koraks about this on two different forums. The Fuji CAii cut sheet product sold in boxes is not among those in question, but specifically designed for "amateur" darkroom use. I'm quite familiar with it. But I'm also working with the top-tier allegedly new category of product (fresh batch) which prints even better optically. That's why I'm not particularly worried. Plus a fair amount of older Super-C roll paper still seems to be available if one is worried about all this.

I'd be surprised if anyone on this forum uses a laser printer, unless it's just something small they have access to, working in either a lab or minilab. I personally know a number of people who do or have used big dedicated laser printers, and those cost more than the typical house! You also need a dedicated XY cutter, drum scanner, and full industrial scale RA4 machine with integral dryer - a larger setup just by itself than the typical home darkroom. So don't expect a lot of people to chime in. We haven't heard back yet from the only person who bought a Heiland LED units for sake of optional color printing. And everyone else involved in LED heads is making their own experimentally, and so far none seem like a realistic alternative for traditional halogen bulb colorheads.
 

Mr Bill

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How many people here use LED heads or Laser/LED digital printers with color negative paper?

Hi, I've been out of the business for near 10 years, now, but came from a lab outfit that used to print about a dozen master rolls of paper per day. (Master rolls come one to a pallet.) The vast majority were nominal 8x10" portrait "units" printed on 10" roll paper, hand-balanced to a tolerance, and dust-spotted during the era of film.

At some point the company changed over to all digital cameras. Obviously everything we printed was then done digitally; the great majority was done in our labs via laser exposures on RA-4 paper.

Over the years we "used," or at least trialed, just about every volume-capable printer supported in the US. The earlier digital printers were experimental Kodak LED units, leading to, as I recall, "Pegasus" printers. (I didn't have any involvement with those, but I know that the exposure times were LONG.) Eventually most of the printing was done on some version of Noritsu QSS something "turbo" units. These were standalone "roll-to-process" units, meaning that they were self-contained units that would expose AND automatically process each unit. We also had a couple/three(?) Durst Theta units for larger prints.

The key to high-quality prints from one of these printers is to first have a high-quality ICC color profile for it, which also means that the processor section must be tightly controlled. Then the input image must also have a proper ICC profile and be properly adjusted. In our case every single image was viewed/adjusted by an operator on a profiled monitor (this was prior to loading to a printer).

We never used anything like an LED head on an enlarger, though.
 
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koraks

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And if an engineer says, they won't work so well now optically, that doesn't necessarily mean they won't work EXCELLENTLY if one knows how to narrow down the parameters to better than what they consider average commercial conditions

What this engineer says has nothing to do with optical printers needing to use the correct film, film & paper processing control, using the right light source for enlargement, etc. What he says is that the spectral sensitivity of the paper does not match C41 anymore. It's also not about spectral peaks, but the match between the curve shape of a C41 negative and the three HD curves of the paper. Hence, any 'solution' that affects the entire image area all at once will not work. This naturally includes everything to do with film & paper processing, projection light source in enlarger systems and filter stacks. The only darkroom technique that can make a difference, is supplemental masking, because it's the only image-dependent correction technique.

But you were responding to an incorrect assumption of mschem to begin with, or maybe just a typo, confusing LED exposure systems

Yes, I noticed this, but let it slip to not complicate things. But to be more accurate, this is how I see it: exposure systems for RA4 paper break down in roughly two classes:

1: Optical projection systems that project a physical C41 negative onto a piece of RA4 paper. This can be an enlarger with a dichroic or LED light source, or it can be an automated machine like the first generation minilabs. Confusingly, these optical minilabs did/do have extensive digital controls, making them look 'digital' from the outside to the unsuspecting viewer. They're in the core analog systems, though: a color-filtered light source shines through a negative and a lens assembly to project a direct image of the negative.

2: Digital projection systems that expose RA4 paper in a pixel-by-pixel fashion. No negative is used, and the image is fully generated digitally. The light-forming element can be a chemical or semiconductor laser. They can even be tiny individual LEDs assembled in a bar, but I do not know if this concept is used for RA4 machines. I only know that these LED print heads are used extensively in (color) laser printers - confusingly they're still called 'laser printers' even though they don't necessarily use lasers...Since this technology is capable of decent resolution, large formats (by staggering several LED arrays) and high throughput, it wouldn't surprise me if it's also used in some RA4 production printers. But again, I have not verified this suspicion.

All approaches that fall into class 1 require a tight matching of the spectral sensitivity of the paper used to a C41 negative, and that the negatives are of consistent quality. Color shift can be compensated, and as such, different brands of paper and film can be accommodated. Color crossover cannot be fixed, other than through supplemental masking with a film mask that's made with, and for use with, the original negative. Systems in class 2 essentially "don't care" if the RA4 paper matches the curves of a negative, since there's no negative in use anyway. In these systems, the translation of digital image data to the correct RGB intensities on the pixel level is done through LUTs and ICC profiles, as @Mr Bill mentioned.

What did you conclude, koraks, from this about the future of printing opticallyin his opinion?

Well, he didn't "conclude" anything for the future other than simply stating the fact in the present that optical printing is not a production environment reality that they cater for, since all their customers have long ago moved to digital.

Which papers was he talking about, all Fuji papers or just some and in which case what are these that home darkroom printers should avoid?

The FUJIFILM papers apparently use only two emulsion sets. One they call the 'amateur' emulsion and the other is what they call the 'professional' emulsion. The various papers hence break down into two classes, depending on which emulsions they use. Within these classes, the individual papers differ in terms of the thickness of the image-forming layers and the interlayers. I've written a small piece about interlayers here: https://tinker.koraks.nl/photograph...importance-of-interlayers-in-ra4-color-paper/
This also shows how it's quite meaningful to have different papers with the exact same emulsions, because their performance is different. However, what does not differ is the spectral response, since that is inherent to the emulsion.
What I have yet to verify is if both emulsions have already migrated to 'digital only'. This was not said explicitly, although it was implied, and there was absolutely no mention whatsoever of any papers currently remaining fully compatible with optical enlargement. The way this engineer explained it to me boiled down to a very firm "that ship has sailed long ago". Again, I'll see if I can get a very explicit statement on this. Apparently it's a necessary step for the more skeptical among us to accept that the RA4 world really has moved to digital a long time ago and that any 'legacy' compatibility is not so much there intentionally, but mostly by chance. For instance, the fact that we still get OK results from optical RA4 prints is mostly because the emulsions were never re-engineered from the ground up - they were incrementally changed, and in the case of the magenta/green issue, part of the emulsion was simply left out because it was no longer necessary. The remaining combination in RA4 paper retains enough of a fit with C41 negatives to still work, in a way.


Unfortunately it sounds as if this Fuji person is essentially saying that those with enlargers will not be able to make even OK prints so they have no future as far as he is concerned. Is he reflecting the Fuji view?

Again, it's not about the future, it's about the present. He didn't say anything about "OK prints", though. He said that you'll get colors alright, but that it will never be possible to get the full performance out of the paper in terms of gamut and color accuracy using an optical projection setup. I don't quite agree with this, because he left out the possibility of supplemental masking, but I also realize that this technique is beyond what most of us are capable and willing to do. This certainly is true for me.
What someone finds an "OK print" is subjective. That's why I keep saying that if one is happy with the prints they make, then that's all that matters. I've printed on papers for a few years that I have now learned are technically not fit for the way I use them. Do I think any less of the prints I've made? No. Does it stop me from making more? Certainly not. It only makes me realize that I'm seeing only part of the performance these papers are capable of. I was gifted a small sampler box with a 4x6" print on every paper they produce. I can tell you right away looking at those that in terms of accuracy and gamut, those prints are far beyond the quality level I will ever be able to make in my darkroom with the same papers - and using the same Fuji chemistry, in a roller processor, at the correct temperature, etc. etc.

As to "the Fuji view": the Fuji view is to make money with RA4 paper as long as they can. Paying customers all use digital exposure. That's the market they cater for.

If so what does he believe the home printer of RA4 paper has to do that enables him to print at home?

I don't know how this guy feels about it - not very strongly either way, I think, because his interest is in producing a paper that works great in the way it's intended to work: digitally exposed.
My personal opinion on this is that there are two things people like you and me can do to enjoy RA4 paper as it is today:
1: Enlarge in the darkroom and accept the results for what they are. They can still be gorgeous and worthwhile/fun to make, even if they can virtually not be made to look dead-accurate anymore and you may not be able to exploit the full gamut that the paper is capable of.
2: Use these papers the way they're intended, i.e. digitally exposed, and enjoy the full performance they have to offer. A wide range of commercial printing services are available where you send in your files and you get the prints in return. Pick any good lab you fancy. Personally I'd pick one that actually tells me what paper I'll be getting, because I happen to find that important. Fortunately, several labs cater to a more demanding crowd. Download the correct ICC profiles, calibrate your monitor and have loads of fun.

How many people here use LED heads or Laser/LED digital printers with color negative paper?

See above for the distinction between light sources. Don't confuse LED heads like the Heiland enlarger light source with a digital exposure system. They're different animals. As said, LED solutions like the Heiland system don't solve the problem.
I don't think there are many people here who use a true digital system. There's maybe one or two who appear to have half a foot in a commercial print operation; perhaps they're active users in the sense that they actually get near the equipment that makes the prints. But since Photrio leans very heavily towards analog and away from digital, I take it as a matter of course that there has never been much interest (and often even not much acceptance...) in digital output.
When it comes to amateur photographers indirectly using digital printers - well, millions, evidently. Pretty much anyone who has their digital snapshots / photos mailed to them as prints uses these systems through a service provider. And why not? It's a great way to get really good color prints. It's in fact a very hard to beat way to make excellent color prints in an affordable way and with a minimum of fuss.

Don't get me wrong - I'm really passionate about darkroom printmaking. I'll keep doing it, also using RA4 paper - as long as it remains accessible and as long as I have the time and space to do so. But I'm also a realist in the sense that I understand a little bit about how this industry operates, and that doesn't mesh well with romantic and archaic ideas of how this used to work a couple of decades ago. The world has moved on; what's the point in trying to remain stuck in the past?
 

BMbikerider

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Ever since I started RA4 printing in the early 1990's I have always used Kodak paper and chemicals. I was not fussy what film I used. I could always sort out the colour balance without a problem. Then when Kodak more or less went belly up couple of years ago I was forced to change. I am still not 100% happy with Fuji materials because dealers here will not sell single rolls of FUJI paper you are forced to buy 2 which means by the time I got round to using the 2nd roll it would be nearing the end of it's use by date. (I prefered rolls 12" wide which meant I could cut sheets 12x16 and smaller. (Actually my prefered size is A4, which is almost a perfect format for 35mm with little waste and I have made a quite efficient light tight dispenser to hold a full sized roll).

The paper base of FUJI seems to be a little lighter in weight than the Kodak version and more prone to kinking with larger sheets. The colour of the paper base when processed (rebates only) also appears to be a purer white, whilst the Kodak is slightly creamy when compared side by side.

On the up side, the FUJI CPRA developer so far seems to be a better choice for me because the Kodak equivalent made me prone to a form of dermatitis and I always had to wear vinyl gloves to prevent an outbreak. With Fuji there has never been a problem. It is also quite a bit cheaper than the last lot of Kodak I was able to buy and I have found it to have at least as good working life as the Kodak version (although the replenishment rates took a bit of working out!)

On the down side, if you can call it that, but I find FUJI paper to be a little bit faster than I would wish for and with smaller enlargements (10x8 and less) the exposures are very short, too short for me to work comfortably. I am talking around 3-4 seconds even when the lens is fully stopped down.

On balance there is very little to choose between them but Fuji seems to be more advantageous for me anyway.

I forgot to mention, My enlarger is a standard, un-modified LPL7700 with a normal Tungsten bulb
 
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koraks

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dealers here will not sell single rolls of FUJI paper you are forced to buy 2 which means by the time I got round to using the 2nd roll it would be nearing the end of it's use by date.

Fuji packs two rolls in a box for most roll sizes, except the largest rolls. Dealers generally sell on the unit size they get from distributors or Fuji directly and indeed won't 'break up' boxes. I guess this is because most professional users expect and want two-roll boxes and don't like to receive opened boxes with part of the product removed from it. If I were a professional printer, I would like to receive the paper the way Fuji packaged it, all original. No risks.

I never noticed a use-by date on Fuji paper boxes. Perhaps they're there; I'd have to check, but AFAIK Fuji doesn't include production dates or use-by dates on their packaging. They can track down exact production parameters based on batch codes on the packaging. E.g. they can track down precisely when your paper was produced, which master roll it was part of, which section on that master roll it was, at what time exactly (i.e. hour-minute-second) a section of paper was coated, dried or packaged, etc. However, they don't include this kind of information in the packaging.

They also don't seem to think in terms of strict 'use by' dates because it depends a lot on storage conditions. When I mentioned I use rolls and that I generally manage to go through a box in about a year, I was told that this was just about quick enough to prevent major issues with color shifts or yellowing. I never noticed any yellowing in paper I procured this way (i.e. as rolls from a reputable dealer), suggesting that if you manage to use up your paper in about a year's time, you should be OK. You could probably stretch this by cold storing the paper in a fridge. I personally don't bother with this.

The paper base of FUJI seems to be a little lighter in weight than the Kodak version and more prone to kinking with larger sheets.

This depends on the exact paper you use. Fuji has a wide range of papers and one of the key differences between them is the base weight. If you find the weight of your currently used paper too thin, try getting some Crystal Archive DPII. This is the 'go to' professional paper and is quite sturdy. There's also Maxima, but it only comes in big rolls - bigger than I care to handle at home. Turns out there's a reason for this, but it is what it is.
My personal view based on what I know now is that DPII is the most logical paper choice for us amateurs, because:
* It's a sturdy paper on a heavy base
* It uses Fuji's higher-end 'pro' emulsion
* It comes in a wide range of roll widths
* It has fairly thick image-forming and interlayers, resulting in high gamut and chroma / hue purity.
For those in mainland Europe, Nordfoto.de conveniently cuts this to sheets. What I do not know is how fast they move this paper and I've had a problem once with out of date Endura that I purchased from them, which showed heavy yellowing. For this reason, I prefer to buy rolls since they're more likely to be factory fresh.

I find FUJI paper to be a little bit faster than I would wish for and with smaller enlargements (10x8 and less) the exposures are very short, too short for me to work comfortably. I am talking around 3-4 seconds even when the lens is fully stopped down.

Yes, it's fast. I can echo this with similarly short exposure times, sometimes down to the 1-2 second range. Since I don't burn & dodge color, I don't mind. My timer is repeatable enough at fractions of a second and my LED system doesn't have a warm-up or afterglow, so it's not a problem. Even with a tungsten setup like you're using, I wouldn't worry about this to be honest. As long as your exposures are repeatable, you're good.

The colour of the paper base when processed (rebates only) also appears to be a purer white, whilst the Kodak is slightly creamy when compared side by side.

I think Fuji might be using more optical brightening agents (OBA's) than Kodak does/did. These OBA's are embedded into the PE coating on the paper base. They do not wash out during processing contrary to what some people say, since they're not part of the water-permeable emulsion stack. They can (and likely will) degrade upon prolonged exposure to UV light - as will the color-forming dyes themselves.
 

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I don't know if Fujifilm still is making minilab RA4 printers?

To my knowledge Fuji still supply wetlab Frontiers, like the models LP9700, LP5700 although some of these are rebadged Noritsu.

I think most minilab prints leave me wanting. When you see the scan lines.

Can you expand what you mean by the scan lines, please?
By scan lines do you mean from the scanned negative, and/or scanlines from the the laser printed RA4 print?
 
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koraks

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By scan lines do you mean from the scanned negative, and/or scanlines from the the laser printed RA4 print?

I assume the latter. On the demo prints / paper samples I got from Fuji, the individual pixels are easy to see with a loupe. With the naked eye I cannot see them. I haven't asked what kind of machines they use to expose these samples. Btw, in those prints, they're discrete pixels, not scan lines. Scan lines are of course possible to see in laser exposure units, especially if it's somehow slightly out of alignment.
 

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I don't have the option of any other Fuji paper in cut sheets other than what is sold here. That is one reason I would like to try a roll of paper of a similar size to the Kodak rolls I used to buy. (approx 300mm x 90M).
 

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All laser printers work according to film scans, and some kind of digital correction related to the actual output device. But those big devices in particular are of two distinct categories : the Chromira printers which printed via a laser platen in small light dots (not inkjet dots) onto RA4 or other papers (including Cibachrome at the time). A few of these are still in operation, but in general principle seem to be mimicked by small roll photofinisher printers (Noritsu?), which is why, in those cases, little "pixelish" dots are evident, though that is not what those little annoying dots really are.

The second and more common category of big laser printer does so in multiple linear passes of laser beams and include Lambda, Lightjet, and Fuji Frontier systems. Early on, and sometimes even now, certain people had problems with annoying horizontal lines visible in prints from this, either due to improper training or less than ideal software. But overall, the technology has greatly improved and offers an excellent alternative to inkjet, and in the right hands, can come way closer to true optical enlargement quality. The biggest reason is how easier it is to print chromes via scan and laser output than any other option
still around. Making high-quality internegs from chromes is an advanced skill no longer commercially available, though I sometimes do it for my own purposes.

And since these various laser systems do differ from one another, and so-called Digital RA4 papers are designed to handle all of them, which in most cases allow for a gamut reserve suitable for optical printing too. One of the really big problems with early laser printers and their use with RA4 papers was the blaah blacks with poor DMax. So the first challenge was to make papers with a steeper curve dropoff into black. That's when they started calling certain papers, "digital only", because they assumed that would have just too much contrast for traditional portrait studios etc selling RA4 softly printed portraits. But for landscape and commercial product photographers, that contrast boost became a "plus"; we liked the change.

Then a little more sensitivity to green was factored in, but not enough to bother optical printing in the least. And now certain emulsion layering changes which might or might not have any serious effect either, depending on the specifics.

Now a few more clarifications. Fuji CAii cut sheet is indeed on thin paper. This never particularly bothered me, since I cut my teeth on fussy big Cibachromes where the tiniest amount of mishandling could created a permanent dent mark. But it made a lot of old lab pros cuss this product beyond belief - and sometimes cuss me out too for recommending it as worthwhile. But since anything big roll, over 20 inches wide, is going to be on a thicker paper, I don't know what all the fuss is about.

And as for alleged brighteners, whiteners ... the far bigger problem they have been progressively improving is overall yellowing due to residual dye couplers. Now that seems to be pretty much in sync with the rate of relative dye fading itself, so a giant leap forward overall.

Papers do have batch codes which can be referenced to manufacturing date. Then it's up to distributors whether these papers are properly stored or not. Contrary to what a few boneheads at the end of the phone at certain distributors say, there is a finite life to papers before they start yellowing on their own. That too has been improved somewhat. But you still gotta be darn careful where you buy your paper. Discounters generally buy up old stock leftover from others; and then we amateur users don't necessarily print all of it quickly. So if the price seems too good to be true, go figure. But at the moment, due to the recent pandemic, it's still a problem just getting certain Fuji papers, and when you do, they'll probably be fresh. For Kodak papers, it's sorta "rest in peace", "say goodbye", since the pandemic is still ongoing in China, where their brand of RA4 papers are supposed to be made.
 
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koraks

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I don't have the option of any other Fuji paper in cut sheets other than what is sold here. That is one reason I would like to try a roll of paper of a similar size to the Kodak rolls I used to buy. (approx 300mm x 90M).

Yeah, I see your point. There are likely parties that will ship such rolls (but only boxes of 2...) to the UK, but the shipping, taxes etc. will probably be cost-prohibitive.
The material availability issue is high up on my list of things I'd like to bring up with them (again).

Drew, thanks for the reflection, especially on digital exposure equipment. I never looked into that part much, at least not for RA4.
 

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What I have yet to verify is if both emulsions have already migrated to 'digital only'. This was not said explicitly, although it was implied, and there was absolutely no mention whatsoever of any papers currently remaining fully compatible with optical enlargement. The way this engineer explained it to me boiled down to a very firm "that ship has sailed long ago". Again, I'll see if I can get a very explicit statement on this. Apparently it's a necessary step for the more skeptical among us to accept that the RA4 world really has moved to digital a long time ago and that any 'legacy' compatibility is not so much there intentionally, but mostly by chance. For instance, the fact that we still get OK results from optical RA4 prints is mostly because the emulsions were never re-engineered from the ground up - they were incrementally changed, and in the case of the magenta/green issue, part of the emulsion was simply left out because it was no longer necessary. The remaining combination in RA4 paper retains enough of a fit with C41 negatives to still work, in a way.

koraks, your above quote would seem to suggest that the days of the home RA4 printer will come to an end and likely sooner rather than later. The only question is when and that remains unknown or not yet revealed by Fuji but in terms of years it sounds to be sooner rather than later

If I were a 30 or even 40 year old considering a colour darkroom for printing RA4 for the first time I'd simply not even think of starting. The days of buying even 8x10 packs of RA4 CA are getting more difficult and the trend seem to be towards then end of cut sheets. It certainly makes you wonder if colour processing of even film is a worthwhile pursuit when having done that there may be little point as home RA4 printing may soon be a thing of the past

I did a quick check on Fuji DP11 which you recommend as an alternative to the amateur Crystal Archive and in the U.K. there are some stockists but it's all a minimum of 2 rolls and that's a lot of money. Those that do sell DPII actually state that it is paper for digital printing which I assume is information they have been given by Fuji

So in summary everything indicates that the home RA4 printer is not be catered for very well and may in only a few years be not catered for at all

From what you already know and have been told by your FUJI contact it seems to me that we have a very dismal and short future left for home RA4 printing

There was a time not so long ago that you could "dapple" relatively inexpensively in occasional colour printing as you still can in b&w but those days have now gone

We now know a lot more about Fuji colour RA4 papers thanks both to you and your Fuji contact but little or none of it is good news

pentaxuser
 
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koraks

koraks

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koraks, your above quote would seem to suggest that the days of the home RA4 printer will come to an end and likely sooner rather than later. The only question is when and that remains unknown or not yet revealed by Fuji but in terms of years it sounds to be sooner rather than later

I'd like to emphasize a couple of things I've said before: what I'm relaying is a present reality. Not something new, nor something of the future. It has already happened. Also, since many of us still enjoy making prints with these papers that are optimized for digital, this suggests that there's no "end" to anything unless Fuji either entirely stops RA4 production or they change something very fundamental to the paper. I've heard no signs whatsoever of either of these.


If I were a 30 or even 40 year old considering a colour darkroom for printing RA4 for the first time I'd simply not even think of starting.

Fortunately, some do :smile: A week or two ago I had a visitor (he also registered on Photrio recently) and we made some nice RA4 prints from negatives he brought. He has since successfully printed several more, in his own (new) darkroom. I never asked his age, but I firmly put him below 30.
Having said that, most people who are serious about photography, have moved to digital many years ago. In that sense, there's nothing new happening now. The things I've talked about in this thread don't change much in my opinion. Well, perhaps that some people at Fuji are showing an active interest in home users in a way they haven't done before.

I did a quick check on Fuji DP11

That's "DPII", not "DP11". To facilitate people who want to search :smile:
This is the official page (currently) for this paper: https://www.originalphotopaper.com/en/product/photographic-paper/dp-ii/
Those that do sell DPII actually state that it is paper for digital printing which I assume is information they have been given by Fuji

Yeah, but like I said, as far as I know, all Fuji papers are for digital at this point, so I wouldn't let that stop me. And yes, you can check the page I linked to for what Fuji says about the paper - indeed intended for digital. They do mention 'analog' printer suitability for some papers, but I have severe doubts about whether that means a lot - or what we'd like it to mean for us, darkroom printers.

From what you already know and have been told by your FUJI contact it seems to me that we have a very dismal and short future left for home RA4 printing
There was a time not so long ago that you could "dapple" relatively inexpensively in occasional colour printing as you still can in b&w but those days have now gone

There are no plans at Fuji to stop RA4 production. As long as it's there, it can be used in the darkroom. Does it perform there as well as it does in digital printers? Most likely not. Is that the end of the world? Not for me!
Also note that the price per square meter of RA4 paper purchased in rolls is generally far below that of B&W RC paper. Chemistry also isn't very expensive. The days of relatively inexpensive occasional color printing are right now, as we speak! It has likely never been as economically accessible for a larger public as it is today.

We now know a lot more about Fuji colour RA4 papers thanks both to you and your Fuji contact but little or none of it is good news

I'm sorry you take it this way. The negative sentiment attributed you're attributing to my statements is really yours, not mine or Fuji's. Also, technically speaking, none of what I've said so far, is actually news...I'm just telling things that have been this way for years already!
 

Jamie Gray

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Hi, I'm new here, and pretty much here because I've just set up a home darkroom for RA-4 and my Googling almost always brought me to really useful Photrio threads.
I started recently with a box of cut Fujifilm Crystal Archive Type 2, like everyone else, and I'm happy with the results. I've been looking to move up to DPII which I understand is better. A supplier here in the UK sells a good range of Fujifilm rolls (Silverprint) and I'm keen on getting a roll of Type H Canvas. Is it good for optical printing or will it suffer weaker results than a paper that's more designed for optical?
 

pentaxuser

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Thank koraks. Yes, the negative sentiments are mine and not yours. I feel the messenger, you, are only giving us what is happening and it is I who regard the signs and news as indicating that at the very least some of the changes are unfortunate for home users. The lack of smaller cut sheets being a major one and one that adds quite a cost to the occasional RA4 printer

If I had stated only a relatively short time ago that quite soon Kodak would have no cut sheets at all and Fuji only one type of paper that was cut but not into smaller than 8x10 sheets then I imagine few would have believed me and no doubt I might have been told to stop spreading alarm with no evidence to back up my predictions but it has happened

It is not everyone that wants to have the expense of large rolls nor the need to cut it themselves All I was trying to do was to contrast what was once the case with a complete range of cut sheets at a relatively small cost to what is now the situation

I wonder how we'd all feel if Ilford had stopped selling cut sheets and insisted that anyone wanting to do b&w printing had to buy two large rolls and that prints from those rolls was really for digital printing and really best printed by equipment we could not afford nor were likely to have the space for. I suggest that this would not be good news

None of what you have said is good news but nor is any of it your fault We may have to make the best of a bad job as they say but that cannot be welcome news, surely

Anyway we clearly view the situation quite differently in terms of the deterioration for home darkroom RA4 printing and that's fine also

Its relatively good news if at least the one feature of the stuff optimised for digital printing is that it will still behave and look only slightly worse printed from an enlarger, especially if, as I think you are saying it may still OK. Yes OK is not the best word so please feel free to supply a better description of my OK to meet what you know in terms of the visible deterioration in a prints from an enlarger

For instance it is not clear to me if I or how many from say 100 members of the general public would clearly seen a difference in favour of a digital print i.e. I think you are saying that the current paper can still be printed to a standard that is acceptable to you. If so this is likely to meet my standard of printing

pentaxuser
 

Jamie Gray

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If I were a 30 or even 40 year old considering a colour darkroom for printing RA4 for the first time I'd simply not even think of starting.
Oops, I'm 40 and just started. I live in Rugby, Warwickshire and have been well served by AG Photographic in Birmingham. Their website only lists CA paper but they have rolls of all types on Fujifilm in the storeroom available to purchase over the counter. Last month I bought some Kodak Endura which had expired in 2021 (50% discount after some tyre-kicking) but I'm printing it and it seems ok. It was a 12 inch roll which I've cut up and I'm selling some of it on a well known auction site.
 

DREW WILEY

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Pentaxuser. It's the other way around for me. When will commercial labs with all their fancy equipment get up to my own home cookin' standards? They won't, simply because their rapid pace can't afford to dedicate the necessary TLC. Just depends how far you want to take things. Minor paper changes are the least of my worries. There are far more idiosyncrasies in color neg film itself to contend with. And all this pessimism makes no sense to me. High quality optical darkroom color printing is easier than ever.
If you understand it, even homely "amateur"CAii cut sheet will meet most demands competently. If it doesn't, then go to roll goods. Or maybe Kodak papers will arise from the dead like a Phoenix bird.
 

faberryman

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Is anyone unhappy with the quality color prints with current Fuji papers?
 
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