The fact is, CAii cut sheet yields a much better DMax optically than digitally printed CA papers originally did. It has a lot to do with your negative itself too. For example, when I print internegs made from chrome originals, the evident DMax or depth of black is deeper than what I typically get from direct enlargement of color negs. And many people shoot traditional versions of color neg film with rather low overall contrast to begin with, designed to go easy on the shadows. Are you factoring any of those distinctions, Koraks, or just making a blanket statement irregardless of the specific film involved?
So Koraks - Don't accuse me of not noticing such things! Have you gone to such lengths or distinctions? I doubt it. And those who, in the past, have flashed film or paper relative to negs and internegs don't have the same degree of control in this respect as informed supplemental masking provides. No, CAii is not going to deliver the kind of DMax a premium product like Fuiflex can. But I have personally done some pretty bold work with it, and most certainly have mountains of experience of what serious DMax means in relation to black and white papers.
Anyone who sees mottled brown in the DMax of CAii must be doing something terribly wrong. Never once have I seen that effect. Yeah, it's one of the thinner papers, so you could hypothetically hold it up to strong window light unmounted and see through a bit, and something might appear off color in that respect. But it's not intended as a backlit product, or to be viewed under nuclear explosion levels of lumens. You could ultimately criticize ANY paper ever made on those grounds. Even the deepest blacks of Cibachrome, which go way deep down there compared to RA4 RC papers, exhibit a greenish tint if the light is bright enough. But anything that bright going to prematurely fade the print anyway. But mottled brown???? .... Ever look at how blacks are discontinuously rendered in color inkjet prints, and where mottling is often evident under normal lighting? CAii cut sheet is way better than that, at least. So it's all relative.
Sure, I wish we could have cut sheet convenience in a wider selection of Fuji papers; but one has to start somewhere. Very few are likely to secure a big heavy roll of my favorite, Fujiflex, and try to cut it down to size in the dark. And it's simply too glossy for many kinds of images. Previously I used big rolls of Super C, and even pre-cut 30X40 inch sheets of it, when they still offered that. Fine product. But at the moment, a full selection of paper types is still in short supply, and others like Maxima either aren't sold to amateurs in this country, or simply haven't arrived here again, post-pandemic. And Fuji claims Maxima achieves its intended DMax ONLY using a special tweak of their own RA4 chem lineup different from the standard chem, which is being sold only to those big labs doing high volume Maxima printing. And not everyone wants to be restricted to little postcard size prints. So what do you expect people to do, Koraks? Just give up trying RA4?
As far as different laser printer profiles ... All old hat to me. Just about every one of the major laseroptions was being used by some lab within walking distance of my office, even Chromira (the same outfit which made those made the feedback monitor for my big custom additive enlarger), and I knew the lab owners quite well, was quite familiar with the results and tech dev of these specific devices, and why papers had to be re-tweaked relative to what every lab owner and customer screamed about - the anemic blacks back then being the worst complaint. But the relative weakness of green lasers was another factor. Machine-gun speed snapshot printing lines are really a different category, and are naturally going to limit paper roll widths to to those automated parameters.
But go ahead, insult me with allegedly bringing "noise" to the conversation, or requiring a grain of salt to interpret. Experience is more like it. Everyone appreciates your interaction with the Fuji paper staff itself due to your proximity. But I interacted with engineers and chemists for many years, and understand how they think. A serious chemist knows how to make a good house paint, but might not themselves be a competent house painter at all. There are always two sides to the equation. And heads of major coating industries far bigger than Fuji's coating lines took my own color performance opinions quite seriously, and sometimes went out of their way to hear them in person. So I know how these things work, at least in principle. And I know what is involved in optimizing color paper performance in the darkroom. One has to start somewhere.
I see no need to make some kind of contest out of this, Koraks. Please to continue to inform us what you learn, from your side of things. But please also respect what some of us have solidly learned from our own perspective.