Flat Top Mamiya Universal

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wjlapier

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Anyone remove the whole top of their Mamiya Universal? I see there are some out there and SK Grimes will do it for $500ish, but I'm curious if anyone did it themselves and can share how to remove the rangefinder and top. And how to add a flat top to the body.

I had two Goodman cameras but the way the film back attaches to the body is the weak link so I'm looking at hacking my Universal camera.
 

ColinRH

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I took the top off mine a couple of years ago as the rangefinder had failed. I used it happily with a focus screen for landscape but only last week bought a 65 for it so it makes a nice 67/69 walkabout. I'm just finishing it now as it'll be going public and I'll photo it here when its finished. I just hacked the top off, then found a small workshop who happened to be 'photo interested' and they finished the top on their mill. I then glued a piece of mahogany on the top and French polished it. The bellows I left in-situ, it seemed easier than removing them and then having to make the back light tight. but removed the 4 side thumb screws. The workshop kindly struck out 4 roundels to cover the resultant holes which I Araldited in place. I removed the leatherette panels around the lens panel and am now replacing them with matching mahogany panels.
It's not the most fab rangefinder (without a rangefinder!) but set the ideal shutter/aperture and with the finder fitted and 400 film just point and shoot. Interesting with large negs and certainly a talking point.
 
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wjlapier

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I have the 50mm and liked the results with the Goodman camera but the corners that hold the film back to the camera are the weak spot. Broke two cameras so far. I have one more but now I’m interested in modding this Universal.
 

ColinRH

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Just to add to the above, I have modified the original Press 23. If your Universal has a good clear and bright rangefinder, I might suggest you keep that and look for an original model with a rubbish rangefinder. It should be cheap and possibly easier to convert than the Universal although I would think there is not much more on top of the Universal compared to the other.
 

xya

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ColinRH

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Mamiya Press Flat Top finished. Extra mahogany on front hasn't added much weight but it's still a large camera, Cameradactyl certainly a lot lighter - I would think - but to my rather biased eyes, Flat Top has a more classy look!!


1 Done.JPG


3 Done.JPG
 
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wjlapier

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That's really nice. My Universal didn't cost much so I'm proceeding to hack it. Looks like it's not a simple matter of removing screws and bolts to remove the top. I'll have to cut it off.

I like the wood though and will consider it for the top.
 

ColinRH

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Thanks wjlapier. I did the original work on it about 5-6 years ago and I think you are right, there are quite a few 'bits' to be removed. If I remember that is why I removed the front leatherette so as to remove the lens panel. If I'm right it gave better access to the inside, but....I really can't confirm that now. That was when I put the wood on the top so as to make a light tight seal. I'm pleased you like it, bets of luck with yours.
 

ColinRH

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Thanks mgb74; I've been hunting for this, I knew it was here somewhere. It was the site which gave me the original idea.
 
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wjlapier

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Rangefinder off:



Cutting the rest of the top off with a Dremel.

 

ColinRH

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Well done, keep going. Finding a friendly workshop with a mill is a lot easier, though.
 

3dreal

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Anyone remove the whole top of their Mamiya Universal? I see there are some out there and SK Grimes will do it for $500ish, but I'm curious if anyone did it themselves and can share how to remove the rangefinder and top. And how to add a flat top to the body.

I had two Goodman cameras but the way the film back attaches to the body is the weak link so I'm looking at hacking my Universal camera.
Bette
Anyone remove the whole top of their Mamiya Universal? I see there are some out there and SK Grimes will do it for $500ish, but I'm curious if anyone did it themselves and can share how to remove the rangefinder and top. And how to add a flat top to the body.

I had two Goodman cameras but the way the film back attaches to the body is the weak link so I'm looking at hacking my Universal camera.
Better forgetting Zone Z1 altogether. Lens and magazine-mount is wrong design and body too short(only a bit). distances do not match. yes i digged into that deeply. and its razorclear. also they didnt send a working pinhole. no complete hole....
homunculus has the right answer. he confirmed calibration.But i only believe when tested.
Aaron Smith has really matching G-adapter. precision is 0.1mm!!!
maybe the blades must be adjusted further for use of all Graflok 23-magazines.
NB: I have three Zone Z1, both official ones and one custom-made by a third party(reseller) total wrong design. a) 90mm deadjusted b) body wrong size. had to cut out the lens! Waste of time and money.

there was a china topcut mamyia with G-back on ebay. but i dont have its name and cant find. around 350 usd. thats the cam we need. and there is the liere 67 and variants. very hard to get informations(i forgot to take leaflets at photokina, reseller doesnt exist anymore). there is a chinese site but hard to get informations.
 
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3dreal

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I have the 50mm and liked the results with the Goodman camera but the corners that hold the film back to the camera are the weak spot. Broke two cameras so far. I have one more but now I’m interested in modding this Universal.
Dora Goodman Zone Z1 is crap- Waste of time and money. they made too much wrong- not only back-mount but also lens mount: total crap since only two screws are holding. They are upset now since i was very upset reporting on FB, they removed me soon afterwards since truth is not wanted. they produced 200 pcs at low price instead of making the right design beforehand. we must find the chinese producer on ebay.
S23 with wobbly back extension is also crap.
 
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wjlapier

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The top is removed:





A little more work to be done to smooth to the edges and level. These pieces need to be removed too.



Find a top and hot shoe then test. I have the G adapter to use Mamiya RB67 6x7 film back and older Graflex 6x9 film back.
 

Besk

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Note: The black Horseman backs will also fit but need some minor modifications on the G-adapter. I use a Horseman 6x9 back on my flattop.
 

ColinRH

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Well done wjlapier. If I may be so bold as to make a point in case you have planned that far yet. Don't forget that the final top face of whatever you finish off with, must be level both left to right and front to back otherwise any finder you fit will not give you level horizons etc. I don't mean to take over, but its something to bear in mind.
Keep going, it'll be fun when its done.
 
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wjlapier

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Good point. I’ll make sure level all around. As much as I’m able.

Well done wjlapier. If I may be so bold as to make a point in case you have planned that far yet. Don't forget that the final top face of whatever you finish off with, must be level both left to right and front to back otherwise any finder you fit will not give you level horizons etc. I don't mean to take over, but its something to bear in mind.
Keep going, it'll be fun when its done.
 

MattKing

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3dreal

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Note: The black Horseman backs will also fit but need some minor modifications on the G-adapter. I use a Horseman 6x9 back on my flattop.
get the g-adapter by Aaron Smith. he is on FB. and has a sophisticated site.
his adapter can easily be adjusted to take up all Graflok 23/RB-backs. i shaved down the blades to match also RB67/70 back i have a 61.5/70 conversion(61.5 only on donor side). Maybe others could get that real universal G-adapter(precision is 0.1mm compared with original) to help him adjust the blades to make them fit all filmbacks. best would be he could send two pairs of blades. one will adjust both for magazines and will send him the second one for his production. he can then make a universal version which will match all tested filmbacks. e.g. Zone Z1 doesnt accept one version of RB-magazine. also my 70mm back doesnt fit, had to adjust the backframe. lens mount of Z1 is a big mess also since not MUPIlike back) and not done right.
 
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