Hello
It's been a while since my last post and I have some news. Having some D19 already mixed, I decided to use this as both my first and second developer. I also had some premixed permanganate bleach, with 20g/l sodium hexametaphosphate, 2g/l potassium permanganate and 50g/l sodium bisulfate. I had a Canon EOS 300V empty at the time, so I loaded the film in it and bracketed some shots of a gray card at -4, -2, 0, +2 and +4 stops. These would enable me to plot a characteristic curve, as well as visually assess the density at various exposure levels. So far, so good, but I couldn't be sure what a good exposure index for my process would be, so I decided to play it safe and bracket my shots, leaning towards overexposure. So, I gave my film a +1/2 stop exposure compensation (the 300V only supports half stops) and bracket +-1/2 stop around it. This would create a sequence of shots at 70, 100 and 50 ISO.
Obviously, I had no clue about what a reasonable FD time would be, so I had to experiment a bit. I took the film leader and put some selotape on half of it's emulsion side. This would prevent it from being developed in the FD, but would later be removed for the rest of the steps. I decided to try 10' FD time at 20°C, based on what Foma's suggestion for their recommended developer is, which shouldn't be too far off from D19. It certainly made the piece of film leader black and proceeded to the next step, bleaching. Rather surprisingly, it seemed that 3' was all that was needed to clear the already developed part, so I developed for another 10' in D19 and got a reasonably good looking piece of film, half black, half clear. This method only tells us that 10' in FD will give clear highlights, but less might still be ok. It also tells us nothing about D
max, because it doesn't take into account any fog produced by FD, because of the selotape.
So, I went ahead and started processing my film. After 3' in bleach, I washed it and took a look inside. Surprisingly, it most definitely wasn't properly bleached, with a large band of unbleached silver in the middle of the frames. I put it back in for another 3', after which it seemed ok. In hindsight, I probably should have left it more. Foma's instructions from their permanganate based kit call for 8' bleaching, but I mixed them up with their 5' suggestion for a dichromate bleach. The rest of the process was completed and finally some observations could be made. First, the best shot was always the ISO100 one, without being necessarily perfect. It's quite good, but a bit less exposure would be nice, at EI125 or 160 (incidentally, dr5 suggests EI160 for this film and his process). Second, the D
min is rather high. It's probably not as clear as could be. I need to do some testing on it and it could be caused by the short bleaching time. I used my Minolta Scan Dual III as a densitometer and this is the characteristic curve I got:
View attachment 258374
The density readings might not be very accurate, but they're not far off. D
min as you can see is 0,5. This doesn't exactly ruin them, but it's something that needs to be corrected. Overall, the EI100 shots are rather marginally projection worthy as far as I can tell, I haven't projected any of them yet. They scan fine though and the highlights aren't blown out, they can easily be corrected. The film is also quite fine grained. I suspect with a little more experimentation I'd be able to get very nice results and the film itself is worth using.