Fuji Neopan 100 Acros II developed in 1:1 XTOL came out really thin

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Crysist

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Wow, thank you all for the great feedback!! I honestly didn't expect so much!

Let me sort your responses so I can sort my answers...

I have Xtol stock that is over a year old that has been stored in airtight, amber glass bottles and it is still fine. I mix the 5 liters and place in 1 liter Kombucha growlers and store in dim light. Keep the stock solutions stock until just before using.

I have also used LegacyPro EcoPro Ascorbic Acid Powder (another Xtol clone) with good results in the past, if you need an alternative, but it also comes only in 5 liter powder form.

Never used the XT-3, but I would not hesitate to use it IF I needed only a 1 liter mix; just pick one and stick with it as there probably will be slight variations on development times between each.
Adox XT-3 is available in 1 litre packages.
If you film usage is small then buy the IL pack of XT-3
That being said, if you aren’t doing a lot of volume check out Adox XT-3. It’s the same as X-Tol but available in 1L packets.
It also is designed to get less chemical durst airborne and dussolve better, both of which I appreciate a lot.
I might try that. I just didn't go with it because I knew of Xtol and B&H didn't have XT-3. I am curious about the Xtol clones because they give you more flexibility.

On the other hand, I read a blog post where the author said he needed a different dilution with XT-3 to get the same results (perhaps Xtol is more concentrated) but otherwise said they were quite similar. I think I'd want to lean more towards something for which times are a lot more available unless it were straightforward to determine how much you needed of a candidate clone developer to "match" Xtol.

Maybe I need to get good at snipping mid-roll into a container to do this kind of testing in shorter order.

However, I never fail to perform the "Xtol test" the day before I plan to develop any film. It has yet to fail, but when it does, I can mix a new batch and let it season overnight to insure homogeneity.
That is smart, doing the XTol test before developing film. I have a drawer full of scrap film to do this. Happy to report, that I have never had a bad reading. Best to be safe, than sorry...
What is the "Xtol test"?

Easy one, try 12 min next.
Should I use the cataclysmic stock solution at all at this point? I think I might be wasting effort if it somehow got messed up to be lesser strength. I bet overdeveloping would work, but perhaps I should start fresh...

What you trying to do is ti exclude air as much as possible
If bottles are your preferred way then make sure that each bottle is use in one shot and if this isn't possible then get some inert gas such as butane and squirt some gas in to exclude any air if a bottle becomes partially empty

pentaxuser
Are inert gasses needed with glass bottles (or non-permeable plastics)? Apparently since air won't diffuse in they'll last far longer. You're just left with the small bit of air at the "head". I currently store my E6 in 3 1L glass bottles and it's worked nicely. I had a 500mL left from when I last got bottles to store the Xtol, that's why I figured to only make 1/10... But from everyone's responses that probably wouldn't work in any way I sliced it.

Considering how often this subject comes up, I'm thinking about making this thread a Sticky thread. :smile:
I often wonder if a sticky will do any good. Matt. It seems to me that we have already pointed out to the OP why portíon mixing is risky to a greater or lesser extent depending on the powder's constituents and how each of us views those risks

In a sticky don't we all regurgitate what has already been?

pentaxuser
I certainly didn't expect it, nor had I heard about it being a bad thing before... 😅
 
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(Cont.)

And yes, definitely mix powder developers as full packages only (as the OP found out the hard way)
Nope. Make it exactly as directed, creating a 5 liter stock solution. Deviating from the directions will produce undesirable results, as you've experienced. Find a way to measure and store the full 5 liters.
That was where you went wrong, sadly. I also tried to mix up "scaled down" XTol back in the late 90's, but failed. Mix the entire package up, and store in sealed containers. If you are concerned about economy, try XTol replenished, or diluted 1+1, both giving marvelous results.
If you proportionally mixed dry chemicals which were packaged to make 5 litres, then you didn't "mix as directed."
It doesn't matter how you metered or what development time you gave the film, because there's no way for you to know what part of the chemicals didn't get into your mix.
Whomp :/

I did suspect it was the chemistry, but I had seen another thread where a user mentioned getting thin negatives with Acros in Xtol so I was wondering if it was merely that combination. So I won't be mixing incorrectly again. At least, not powders. I see people mix developers together in various amounts (like Xtol with a bit of Rodinal, etc). That's okay, right?

They definitely are sensitive, especially X-Tol as its citric acid based instead of metol.
Why do the two differ on being sensitive in this case? What makes citric acid more sensitive and metol less sensitive?

Also, metol is another developer, right? I think I recall that name scanning though an old book which listed a bunch of developer recipes. Maybe. There were a lot of things named "-tol" in there. Anyway, how do citric acid contrast with metol? Citric acid isn't a developer, is it? What does it mean to base a developer on a developer versus one standalone ingredient by contrast?

It’s never a good idea to sub-divide powder packets, but it’s especially bad if the developer is based on a Phenidone (as is XTOL) because there is comparatively such a small amount of that compound in the mix.

XTOL in particular makes this practice an even riskier proposition. (1) packet A contains the important iron/copper chelating agent - again a comparatively small amount. (2) packet B contains sodium bisulfite to bring the pH down to target and there is much less of it than the other components of packet B, so the final pH could vary quite a bit from target depending on the proportion of bisulfite you end up with when subdividing packet B. Etc.
Thanks a bunch for the information! That all makes sense why getting the amounts could mess things up. I was definitely a gram on the greater side for part B, so perhaps that made it too acidic and thus less active? Does that mean less bisulfite (or some other acidifying ingredient) would generally make a developer stronger? Cause I know most stops are just acetic acid and they just make the pH too low for the developer to continue developing.

What part does Phenidone have?

I’ve mixed it in a bucket before, just measure the liquid in and pour it carefully into a storage container.
The way you describe your proposed mixing above sounds OK to me in terms of measurements It doesn't have to be exactly 5L to the exactly ml as long as the 1L pitcher jug is about 1L

Once mixed then fill 4X1L containers and then divide the last 1L into 4x 250ml containers. In each container fill to the brim to exclude air Once the 4x250ml are used transfer the next 1L container into the empty 4 x250ml bottles
If Xtol is going to be your regular developer then depending on your film usage buy a 5L wine type box from a home brew shop or use an empty 5L wine box. That way when you extract the stock Xtol the bag collapses as the liquid is used and air is kept out
Bucket seems good for mixing. But subdividing the stock sounds like I'll end up with a crazy amount of bottles instead of one container. The only concern about a wine box, and why I hadn't gotten one despite not finding any glass substitute above 1 gal (3.8L), is they seem much harder to fill and subsequently clean. Unless they also have two holes like those biiiig dispenser jugs which have a spout at the bottom and a cap on top?

If the 5 litre size is a challenge, you can mix and store a 4 litre volume of slightly stronger "super-stock".
But that would then necessitate diluting the stock further each and every time you use it to develop some film in order to have the XTol perform normally. Not a bad idea, just one that introduces another area where mistakes might be made.
I mix Xtol as a 2:1 concentrate by using the half amount of water. Filled in brown glass bottles it has an extended shelf life. This cannot be done with D76.
In the past I have mixed Xtol in half the quantity of water, then diluted it appropriately for use. It took a while to dissolve, and it is apparently important that part A be completely dissolved before adding part B.
Hmm, that's not a bad idea too. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, the proportions of the developer parts shouldn't be messed with, but the water is fine to change because it'll just make a concentrated or more dilute stock in the end?

Again, I appreciate your responses a lot!!

PS: As another open question, and this would be its own rabbit hole, if I have a thin developed negative can I build back density into it? I forgot if that was done by something called an "intensifier" or something else.
 

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It doesn't work that way.
There is no reliable way to ensure homogeneous distribution of the constituent parts of the developer when mixing up packages of powdered developer - particularly with developers you mix from more than one package.
The developer you mixed up will almost be guaranteed to not be the right strength or activity - except by pure chance.
If you mix up the rest of the powder into 4.5 litres of liquid, it will probably be closer to the proper strength, and therefore usable, but it won't be exactly the same as the proper strength stuff.
Any division into smaller quantities needs to be done after you mix it up into liquid form, not by dividing the powders.

Matt King is 100% correct!
 
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On the other hand, I read a blog post where the author said he needed a different dilution with XT-3 to get the same results (perhaps Xtol is more concentrated) but otherwise said they were quite similar. I think I'd want to lean more towards something for which times are a lot more available unless it were straightforward to determine how much you needed of a candidate clone developer to "match" Xtol.
I have read this post, and I think it can be disregarded. The author of the post doesn't state any real data points, and doesn't include samples that support his results.

In addition, there are an abundance of tests online that support XT-3 having the same characteristic curves as X-Tol.
Bucket seems good for mixing. But subdividing the stock sounds like I'll end up with a crazy amount of bottles instead of one container. The only concern about a wine box, and why I hadn't gotten one despite not finding any glass substitute above 1 gal (3.8L), is they seem much harder to fill and subsequently clean. Unless they also have two holes like those biiiig dispenser jugs which have a spout at the bottom and a cap on top?
I would recommend placing an order for a 5L container from somewhere like Freestyle (they also stock XT-3). I like the clayton ones, they're REALLY cheap and easy to come by, and if you want to standardize on X-Tol you'll be using it a lot.
Why do the two differ on being sensitive in this case? What makes citric acid more sensitive and metol less sensitive?
I misspoke - X-Tol is not a citric acid developer but an *ascorbic acid* developer. I would highly recommend grabbing a copy of Anchell and Troop's The Film Developing Cookbook, it's got lots of great info about this topic and takes a nice road between scientific chemistry and darkroom application.

In short, Metol (and hydroquinone as well) are stable silver halide developer in their base forms, and at least one of the two is included in most developers due to this property.

For sodium isoascorbate (the ascorbic-acid based developing agent in X-Tol) to function as a developer, it requires the presence of a compound called Diethylene-Triamine-Pentaacetic Acid (DTPA) to counteract any mineral impurities in the water or other chemical compounds. If this balance is thrown off, X-Tol will suddenly fail, producing very thin negatives or no negatives at all.
 

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On the subject of making a less than 4 litre quantity of XTol with all the powder dissolved in it, it is interesting to see that @Sanug has had success getting all the powder dissolved into less than 4 litres of water. I've never been able to do that, without there being at least a moderate amount of un-dissolved powder left at the bottom of the container.
It is that issue of solubility that limits this approach.

And on the subject of making a thread a Sticky thread, the two reasons to do that are to direct attention to the thread, for those visiting the site for the first time and, perhaps more importantly, to make a thread easy to find for those who want to point others to a thread that deals with a particular issue.

And on the subject of whether intensification will help, probably not.
Intensification is useful for negatives that have density in all the appropriate locations, but could benefit from increased contrast contributing extra density.
Your negatives seem too under-developed for that.
 

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@Crysist I regularly develop Acros in XTol-R, and never get thin negatives. In regards to mixing in other developers, like Rodinal, been there done that. It works quite nicely...but that is with properly mixed up XTol... 😉 🙂
 

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I’m not referring to measurement errors on your part but rather the fact that of the total powder volume in each packet, the relative proportions of each compound are very different.

Consider that of the roughly 250g total dry weight of part A, only 1g of that is Dimezone-S (the Phenidone derivative in XTOL). If you pour 25g of part A powder you’d have to be quite lucky to end up with 0.1g of Dimezone-S. You might get more, or more likely less. What if it is significantly less? This is the primary developing agent, so not a good start.

Etc. You get the idea (we don’t need to go through each ingredient).


Thanks a bunch for the information! That all makes sense why getting the amounts could mess things up. I was definitely a gram on the greater side for part B, so perhaps that made it too acidic and thus less active? Does that mean less bisulfite (or some other acidifying ingredient) would generally make a developer stronger? Cause I know most stops are just acetic acid and they just make the pH too low for the developer to continue developing.

What part does Phenidone have?
 
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I have read this post, and I think it can be disregarded. The author of the post doesn't state any real data points, and doesn't include samples that support his results.

In addition, there are an abundance of tests online that support XT-3 having the same characteristic curves as X-Tol.

I would recommend placing an order for a 5L container from somewhere like Freestyle (they also stock XT-3). I like the clayton ones, they're REALLY cheap and easy to come by, and if you want to standardize on X-Tol you'll be using it a lot.
That's a relief, haha! But if I start looking at XT-3 over Xtol, is that just as good? Or should I actually prefer a 5L batch of Xtol/XT-3? I assume you just mean to make a long-lasting 5L stock rather than 1L increments from 1L kits?

I have read about this problem of Xtol causing some precipitate and XT-3 apparently doesn't?

Hm, Freestyle doesn't have an 5L bottles by Clayton. Are the Clayton ones nonpermeable plastic? When I was browsing fotoimplex I was kind of jealous that they had those nice wide-mouthed glass reagent bottles, but the ones I was finding on amazon from cursory searches were a lot more or had a narrow mouth.

I'm using narrow-mouthed glass bottles and I don't like how they make things like blix come sloshing out or drip down the lip instead of out. I got a development tray purely to keep any splash contained and it still is messy.

I misspoke - X-Tol is not a citric acid developer but an *ascorbic acid* developer. I would highly recommend grabbing a copy of Anchell and Troop's The Film Developing Cookbook, it's got lots of great info about this topic and takes a nice road between scientific chemistry and darkroom application.

In short, Metol (and hydroquinone as well) are stable silver halide developer in their base forms, and at least one of the two is included in most developers due to this property.

For sodium isoascorbate (the ascorbic-acid based developing agent in X-Tol) to function as a developer, it requires the presence of a compound called Diethylene-Triamine-Pentaacetic Acid (DTPA) to counteract any mineral impurities in the water or other chemical compounds. If this balance is thrown off, X-Tol will suddenly fail, producing very thin negatives or no negatives at all.
I see. And I imagine the ascorbic acid based developer is, depite how difficult it is, . Thank you for the recommendation, I'll check it out!

On the subject of making a less than 4 litre quantity of XTol with all the powder dissolved in it, it is interesting to see that @Sanug has had success getting all the powder dissolved into less than 4 litres of water. I've never been able to do that, without there being at least a moderate amount of un-dissolved powder left at the bottom of the container.
It is that issue of solubility that limits this approach.
If I go 5 I'll probably just get a full bucket and figure out the storage. The thing about making it more concentrated is it'd be a lot easier to store.

And on the subject of whether intensification will help, probably not.
Intensification is useful for negatives that have density in all the appropriate locations, but could benefit from increased contrast contributing extra density.
Your negatives seem too under-developed for that.
Interesting. So it requires a lot more silver to work?

The test is described on this page under "Making Sure Your Xtol Hasn't Gone Bad". I use the paper test, not the film test.

Very useful, thank you! I had actually seen something like this (Cinestill has a video where they explain tests for developers/fixers/bleach) but I hadn't figured to use them.

Something interesting the site mentions is that the 1L kits were causing problems which is why they moved to the 5L kits. However, Adox has a 1L kit for XT-3, is there any concerns about quality for that kit?

@Crysist I regularly develop Acros in XTol-R, and never get thin negatives. In regards to mixing in other developers, like Rodinal, been there done that. It works quite nicely...but that is with properly mixed up XTol... 😉 🙂
Just had to make sure! Because before this thread I hadn't considered just making a portion of the stock would cause issues.

I’m not referring to measurement errors on your part but rather the fact that of the total powder volume in each packet, the relative proportions of each compound are very different.

Consider that of the roughly 250g total dry weight of part A, only 1g of that is Dimezone-S (the Phenidone derivative in XTOL). If you pour 25g of part A powder you’d have to be quite lucky to end up with 0.1g of Dimezone-S. You might get more, or more likely less. What if it is significantly less? This is the primary developing agent, so not a good start.

Etc. You get the idea (we don’t need to go through each ingredient).
Ah, okay I see. Is that related to why you must use at least 100mL per roll? I know it's different for the powders, as you mention in your example, and in solution I figure they're far more homogenous so it seem like it's a different reason. Why does it apparently stop working lower than 100mL? Also, higher dilutions (more than 1:1, going by Kino's link) seem to be an issue for some, but I don't know if that's due to having less than 100mL of developer in that working solution or it's actually while having more and the dilution itself becomes an issue.
 
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Hm, Freestyle doesn't have an 5L bottles by Clayton. Are the Clayton ones nonpermeable plastic?
Sorry, freestyle brands them as arista bottles. They're definitely the same as the Clayton ones, I guess I just bought mine elsewhere.

They're identical to the bottles freestyle ships fixer and other chemistry in, so they should be nonpermeable yeah!
But if I start looking at XT-3 over Xtol, is that just as good? Or should I actually prefer a 5L batch of Xtol/XT-3? I assume you just mean to make a long-lasting 5L stock rather than 1L increments from 1L kits?
More what I was meaning is that if you choose X-Tol over XT-3, you'll definitely need a good 5L bottle as it's only available in 5L quantities. That being said, I would recommend picking one and sticking with it, just for consistency.

I don't think there's real reason to prefer a 5L quantity except for economy, as it's a little cheaper per liter to get the bigger packet.

In my own tests I've definitely noticed a change in developer performance with XT-3 Stock stored for a year or more - I started to gain base fog and lose shadow detail, so if 5L is going to sit for a while I'd stick with 1L and mix fresh more frequently.
 
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Something interesting the site mentions is that the 1L kits were causing problems which is why they moved to the 5L kits. However, Adox has a 1L kit for XT-3, is there any concerns about quality for that kit?
As far as I know it was never conclusively proven that the smaller kit quantity was the source of the problem, there was just a correlation and so they removed it from the market to be safe.

I've been using XT-3 for about 3 years now and haven't had any issues, nor have I heard reports of problems with sudden death.
 

dokko

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the whole XTOL sudden death issue was ages ago (must have been like 20 years now) and hasn't happened anymore since afaik.

just shows how important quality control is for a company, since the suspicion can stay afloat for a long long time after things have been resolved.

personally I developed hundreds of film in XTOL (and now XT-3) and find it simple to just mix um 5litres of demineralised water and store it in 500ml glass bottles.
I usually use it at 1+2, again using demineralised water, because we have very hard water here and I like to keep consistency when I develop at different places.

I very much like the results and never had a problem.
 

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It is a fact that dividing the powder is not recommended, and you made a bad experience with it.

Despite these facts, it is possible to divide a 5 L package into 5 parts to make 1 L each. You just need to stir the powder well before dividing it into parts.

I did this successfully with a 5 L package XT-3 when the 1 L packages were not on stock at Fotoimpex.

There is still some risk doing so. Therefore I would prefer to buy 1 L packages if you are not going to use 5 L within a year.

I can recommend to set up XT-3 with the half amount of water and store it in small brown glass bottles fully filled. This avoids oxidation very well.

Just dilute the 2:1 concentrate to your needed strength in the moment when you are using it.
 

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the whole XTOL sudden death issue was ages ago (must have been like 20 years now) and hasn't happened anymore since afaik.

just shows how important quality control is for a company, since the suspicion can stay afloat for a long long time after things have been resolved.
Also just goes to show how important is our species control over its own mind when a happening 20 years ago still looms large and the "isn't there a sudden death fault with Xtol?" not only survives but is quoted as often as it is

For instance there was a famous railway bridge over the river Tay in Scotland that collapsed in 1879 with a train and its passengers and I haven't used the "new" bridge since 😄

pentaxuser
 

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First, let me say that when the Great Yellow God created Xtol he created one of his best products. That said, when Adox created XT-3 they did one up on the Great Yellow God. I use it the same way I did Xtol and that's replenished. The two nice things about XT-3 over Xtol is the fact that you can buy the 1 L size and also that it mixes like a dream. I won't go back to Xtol unless I can't get XT-3. I bow to no God! Unless there is a storm with a lot of lightning strikes.😉
 

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Ah, okay I see. Is that related to why you must use at least 100mL per roll?

Not really. The properly mixed liquid stock solution from powder, or pre-packaged liquid concentrate is homogeneous.

The manufacturer-recommended minimum liquid volumes of stock or concentrate ensure you have enough developing agent(s) in the tank to fully develop a roll of film. This is important for consistency of results.

To roughly illustrate using one of XTOL’s developing agents, a (properly prepared) stock solution of XTOL has a Dimezone-S concentration of 0.2g/l. Suppose it takes 0.02g Dimezone-S to develop a roll of film. Then you need at least 100ml of stock XTOL in the tank. If you are using XTOL diluted 1+1, that’s a minimum of 100ml stock + 100ml water. Etc.

Of course you tend to use more because you also need the total working solution volume in the tank to be large enough to cover the reel(s). So in reality say you need 500ml of solution you’d use 500ml stock (1+0) or 250ml stock + 250ml water (1+1). 100ml stock is the minimum you need for consistency. There’s no maximum.

Basically, follow the manufacturers’ directions for mixing solutions, minimum quantities etc. It’s the best way to get reliable, repeatable, high quality results.
 

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To roughly illustrate using one of XTOL’s developing agents, a (properly prepared) stock solution of XTOL has a Dimezone-S concentration of 0.2g/l. Suppose it takes 0.02g Dimezone-S to develop a roll of film. Then you need at least 100ml of stock XTOL in the tank. If you are using XTOL diluted 1+1, that’s a minimum of 100ml stock + 100ml water. Etc.
This number probably isn't far off. It probably requires about 1/2 that, but Kodak would have built in a safety zone to account for some oxidation and sloppy measuring.
 
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